Jump to content

cruiser54

Members
  • Posts

    9413
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by cruiser54

  1. I've often wondered how the DRB for Renix and the MT2500 compared. I generally just read the sensors in real time vs using the other options.
  2. I have a DRB, not an MT2500. Can you monitor sensors in real time with the MT? I can.
  3. The save all the Renix sensors, throttle body, wiring harness, flywheel, distributor.
  4. Thanks!! I ordered 5 of them.
  5. We need more detail as to what swap you're wanting to make. I part out Renix Jeeps as a hobby, so let us know and I'll try to steer you in the right direction.
  6. Check for power at the blower motor connector and for ground also. It's right there on a pigtail under the coolant bottle.
  7. First time I've ever seen this in decades of doing it. The high altitude CPS and IIRC, the ones in the patch harness kit, already had the larger upper hole. And no matter how large you drill the upper hole, the CPS can only slide down until it hits the bell housing. Guys on other forums have drilled BOTH holes without this result.
  8. ... There's something wrong as far as the CPS contacting the flywheel. There's a ton of clearance. Incorrect mounting bolts? Notice where he said he drilled out the top hole. I'm going to guess that he read some "expert" on the Internet advising to do this to get a stronger signal. God save us from the Internet experts ... That would be me. This is the first time I've EVER heard of one colliding with the flywheel.........And yes, it does strengthen the signal.
  9. Pull the flywheel inspection plate off the bottom of the bell housing and see if it's laying in there. If not, try rotating the flywheel in neutral 360* and see if it can be found. Then install your new CPS w/o drilling out the mounting hole - you don't need that now. It'll probably fire up and run fine. There's something wrong as far as the CPS contacting the flywheel. There's a ton of clearance. Incorrect mounting bolts?
  10. Yep. Maintenance stuff. They're due for plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 30,000 miles.
  11. 800 ohms between the orange and black wire on the O2 sensor is good. An O2 sensor won't cause it to die anyway. Go through Tips 1 through 5 before doing anything else.
  12. There's a green that goes to the fusebox for radio, headlamp delay and door locks. And one that goes to the fan control relay. And one to the fusrbox for parklamps, hazard and stoplights, interior lamps.
  13. Not to mention it's the 2 plus 2 model which is not desirable at all. You'd be better parting it out. It's got the big rearend, great 5 speed trans and of course that 2.8 liter 6. I would offer $200 to haul it off.
  14. The rear D30 found in some Volvos seems to be the most common place to find one. Beat me to it!!! LOL.
  15. Are you tightening the nut down loosely and using the jam nut to lock it into place vs tightening everything down tight?
  16. Nice Pete, I've never seen you in person. So, this is how you do it Yes. It's a gift.
  17. Main battery connections. http://cruiser54.com/?p=19
  18. Basslicks, whaddya doing over in this sandbox? welcome!!! Here's your MJ: http://prescott.craigslist.org/cto/5666296527.html
  19. Go check that stuff first.....
  20. Go to www.cruiser54.com and see Tip 3. Note the front lighting connector....
  21. Great to hear Charles.
  22. That's impressive!!
  23. Upgrade your cables instead. It will spin faster. http://cruiser54.com/?p=19
  24. Tip 1 must be done first, along with 3 and 5.
×
×
  • Create New...