cruiser54

3 wire flat connector is for the engine side. 4 wire square is for the trans. Auto TPS works fine on a manual trans equipped vehicle. Have you done Tip 5 yet? Do it before installing the new tPS and use my instructions to adjust your new tPS.

Great job guys!!!

Got the TPS wet. Probably toast, but you can try spraying out the connectors with electronics cleaner.

I've used tons of them. On every Renix Jeep in the family.

The starter could also be coated in oil...Is it?

I understand about the head , which is why I was putting the 95 head on . What are you referring to as not easy ? Not enough coffee this morning. Didn't read down to the "head" part. XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. 2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange. YJ and 1997-1999 4.0L TJ blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ XJ/ZJ blocks, and the 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

Go to www.cruiser54.com and do Tips 1 through 5.

Not easily. And, they're prone to head cracking.

That's the knock sensor.

Progress.

Eagle, photos from my FSM.

The CPS can be intermittent. Especially if it became susceptible to heat. Sometimes it will start warm but most of the time it will have to fall below the threshold of heat before it will start. Either way it's important to test all the sensors given the range of issues they can cause. If you are going to replace the injectors, definitely do as cruiser said, don't waste the money on factory 1 holes. But, it won't start and run rough.......

The clicking sounds speradic, but also too rythmic to be shrinking metal. It also clicks regardless of whether the engine was shut off warm or cold. Thanks for the idea about pulling the spark plug, I will try that. The exhaust manifold will click and shrink no matter how long the engine runs. It heats up within only a few seconds and can sound somewhat rhythmic when shrinking. The fuel injectors will for sure be a rhythm though. I'm with Cruiser that it's probably just the exhaust manifold making the noise but it's worth a look into the injectors just in case. I have had issues similar to yours with my 98 XJ not starting after it had run. It was so inconsistent when it happened though so idk what finally fixed it. I know that some sensors like the cps can be affected by heat. It's possible that heat soak is causing a sensor to act up after you run it. The heat soak issue is pretty frustrating since it runs great otherwise . I'll go to the store and 20 min later it will have trouble starting, misfire, shake, and idle real low until it starts driving again. I haven't checked the CPS yet, I'll try that too. If it was CPS, it wouldn't start. You could have leaky injectors that don't close completely when the engine is shut off. Get a refurbished set of Volvo 746 injectors and eliminate that issue. A coupla guys on Cherokee Forum supply them.

Nope. On Renix, it's not a cam sensor. You can unplug it and still drive fine.

Trust me, if I didn't have to put the parts on i wouldn't. The distributor it has is going bad, it started with a quiet ticking noise like a lifter click but has gotten way louder so I'm replacing that today so i don't hurt anything else. It has a new ballast resistor as well. I'm starting to think maybe fuel as well. I had it out last week and it stalled on me twice from no fuel, we played around with it and found the fuel pump relay had gone bad so we replaced that and it started right up. Figured that was the fuel issue but I'm starting to wonder now. Go to www.cruiser54.com and read about dizzy indexing

TCU is likely fried then.

You are most likely hearing the ticking of the cooling exhaust manifold which is very common. I bet it's telescoping through the intake manifold.

You got it!!

Quit firing the parts cannon at it first of all. It starts with starting fluid when hot, right? That rules out CPS, TPS, dizzy, O2 sensor which you have already replaced. Dizzy doesn't know if you're spraying starting fluid into the throttle body... I'm thinking there's a problem with fuel delivery. Fuel pump relay, ballast resistor?

click on the link below for detailed instructions on how to do it. works great. http://cruiser54.com/?p=100

Nevermind.................

I'm neither here for your approval nor do I care for your flippant attitude. My oldest grandson is working for a Jeep dealership (top producer of repairs that have less than 10% returns) and the next oldest is a paramedic (in case this news gives you palpitations). But, whatever floats your boat. BTW, the attempted killers are from your neck of the woods. Seems one of them did the same thing before but got set loose from prison because he was put in a coma while in holding so they let him go and played the prison officials for fools and got a quarter $Million from the state on a fraudulent basis. Whatever. Same old bull$#!&. Some tall tale. You come in and give crap advice and then blame it on whatever the current disease/bull$#!& de jour you come up with. I'm convinced you have a severe case of cranial rectitus.

Great. Do a build thread and refrain from giving advice then.

Great for now. You know how I feel about irresponsible posting and me having to clean it up, right? My tolerance level for that is even lower now, regardless of the life changing excuses you always seem to have..........