omega_rugal

leave the cap off overnight, rub the hoses ... that´s why i don´t like the closed system, there´s no advantage over the open system, it´s a pain in the @$$ to burp and any leak can lead to catastrophic failure

the starter and the flywheel teeth are slighty misaligned

25 MPH with a rope? mmm no, i think that get you a ticket if the cops see you... geta dolly or a tow truck, be safe...

the internet says yes... you also need the exhaust manifold

it had a 90 degree V6, not the smooothest design, also they wanted it to drive as as car as much as they can, a sold axle is not the best way to do that

a V8 has less vibrations...

race truck? never mind then

if you attach it to the frame would improve some NVH? or at least can help to no twist the axle under load?

and usually people keep throwing new thermostats over and over and never fix the overheating issue...

overheating while standing still means a bad fan clutch, the problem is airflow when is overheating and spilling coolant everywhere, touch the radiator, if it´s relatively cold to touch, aka you can hold your hand against it, it MAY mean the radiator is clogged OR the thermostat is stuck closed, or there may be lots of rust inside the engine block, the problem is coolant circulation also the stock pressure bottle zucks, it likes to crack and not hold pressure, not holding pressure means overheating, a cap that doens´t seal properly also leaks pressure and causes overheating why everybody go straight to the thermostat? a stuck thermostat causes overheating but come one, it can be it every time...

i forgot that, i consider that as part of the engine since it won´t run without it

yeah i want one... keep it, it[s still fixable, no MJm or XJ deserves to be crushed unless it has rust cancer and or has been it a crash

for a 4.0 swap you need the entire drivetrain, engine transmission and Tcase, and I'm guessing rear and front shafts... a 3.4 is a more straightforward upgrade... your call...

it works better with automatics, it keeps a constant speed by adjusting the throttle, shifting up or down when needed in a manual all it does is hold the gas pedal for you, the act of shifting gears kinda defeats its purpose

there could be friction between the input $#!&, which is stationary, and the output shaft, which is being turned by the rear wheels, similar to how a sm465 can destroy the 3rd gear if towed with the shafts on input and output shafts must turn, if one doesn´t turn there´s friction being in neutral has little or nothing to do with it

with the gears in neutral and the pump not working, only the lower part of the gears get oil...

the old V6s were carbed, running too lean, vacuum leak, or bad timing, anything that causes loss of power

ok to clarify, it´s an engine problem, not a transmision problem...

check the engine, it´s stalling due lack of power

to clear a flooded 4.0 you crank it while presssing the accelerator all the way down, this shuts down the injectors and allows more air to wash away the extra gasoline

remove the shafts just to be safe

so.. -runs fine for 10 mins - next start goes too rich and floods - 10 seconds later starts normally what happens if you try the ´flood clear´ method? have you checked if the IAC opens properly? this one likes to stick leaving only fuel and no air in the manifold...

i would check that alternator first...

motor mounts...

broken wire, bad ground