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ADD A SIGNATURE: When LOGGED-IN. Go to upper right hand corner of screen. Click on Username. Click on Account Settings. Find and click on Signature. Add vehicle information here (YR, ENG, TRANS, etc, etc) then click on SAVE. This helps everyone. This information will be available every time you post.

That air freshener did it use Scratch "N" Sniff technology?

If that's a cube relay being used as a bypass jumper, which could be wired using the NC contacts, then its a very expensive jumper wire.

Engine manifold vacuum (VAC) reading at idle should be between 18-21"hg. Now if engine runs rough due to excess of fuel or weak secondary ignition (unburnt fuel) I guess your VAC readings could be possible. I know you know your running RICH so where could the fuel be coming from? I think you asked this in your 1st posting, so if your not leaking fuel from the INJ's, Fuel Pump Pressure Regulator, EGR valve or the Charcoal Canister, maybe weak spark at idle. IDK. I don't like the VAC reading so I would also check MAP wiring. Color Codes: C218_A - BRN W/TR C218_B - VIO C218_C - RED W/TR DVOM w/MAP disconnected, harness side. C218_A - Continuity to GND C218_C - KEY ON; MAP supply; 5vdc

RICH is a cool burn. LEAN melts metal. With KEY ON only, note the BARO reading. BARO-MAP=VAC.

Sound like 02 Heater circuit is working as intended. I've been staring at your MAP and VAC readings. I would think VAC should be around the 18.0"hg. Also during its attempt for CL, MAP/VAC change like the 02S voltage changes until ECU goes OL.

DVOM are high impedance meters. That is they can read voltage but can't tell you if current will flow. Testlights tax the circuit with current flow (bulb). Like I said "long shot".

That 02S voltage will just not leave the RICH zone. I'm going to take a long shot here. With ENGINE at idle can you brightly light a 12vdc testlamp on pin D2_9.

Here are my REM stats idling O2 - 1.1V OL/ 0.5v CL INJECTOR PULS WIDTH - 8.1mS OL/ 4.5mS CL GALLONS PER HOUR - 1.1 OL / 0.8CL MAP - 15.9 OL / 12.0 CL VAC - 14.5 OL / didn’t grab closed loop Water temp - 187 f ST - 128 OL / drops to 0 in CL Yeah, it should have. INJ PW@8.1mS for CL is possible with ECT_187° and MAT_64°, if those are your ambient temperatures. TPS@14, I don't know, shouldn't it be at 17. Maybe need to take a voltage reading. @cruiser54 tips. 02S@0.5vdc during CL should be swinging between 0.0&5.0vdc (rich/lean). Have you check the 02S heater circuit?

STFT dropping to 0 when going to CL shows ECU knows "too much fuel". What are LTFT numbers? TPS@idle? MAT@idle?

Driver's side? I see a bunch of connections (one of which with mild corrosion), but no ground. G107

Good times Bad times President or King?

Swap Turn Flasher with Hazard Flasher.

Myself, I'd need a XL petite.

She's got some talent. Nice job.

Pancakes w/START-STOP or wo/START-STOP technology.

ATF Formed: July 1, 1972; 48 years ago More info: https://thewhiskeyjug.com/whiskey/how-to-date-a-bottle-of-whiskey/ Jul 24, 2015 — Federal Tax Strips Tax strips are the blue (if exported), green or red strips that go up the side of the neck and over the cap and will either say U.S. Internal Revenue or Bureau of ATF. If it says ATF on the strip then your bottle is from 1977 – 1985.

New math

HO HO HO. Looks like your going to need 4 LO.

If your vehicle STARTS and RUNS with that Engine Compartment Lamp (ECL) connected only, I'd suspect you've lost your I1 voltage feed from the IGN SW. With KEY ON check for voltage (B+) on the following pins: D2_4 C213_A

It is the engine bay light (underhood lamp, if equipped) connector.

Are you sure about that. The way it came seems wrong. EDIT: I now see the correct rotation. This time I used my good eye.

48124 Snow on the ground 3" H35° L29°

Best I can do for you. Hope this helps. MJ_1987_Electrical_Manual_1.pdf