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Renix Engine Monitor

Thanks for the heads up.

By design when the AC clutch is engaged, the radiator cooling fan will energize (engage). Do you still have this function?

If were talking about the 2 pin connector at the ICM then that's timing input from the ECU (timing output). I don't know the values, but its a square wave signal based on dwell/spark triggering for the ICU's coil.

Just one more pin to check. Disconnect C218. KEY OFF. Measure continuity between C218_A and battery negative terminal.

Backprobe C218_C. KEY ON. Looking for 5vdc.

I'll take it you backprobed the MAP sensor b terminal. Check vacuum hose between MAP and manifold for clogging. With the reading you got it could be trapped vacuum between clog and MAP. Take same reading with vacuum hose disconnected.

Examine Engine Harness Splice_P.

With ENGINE RUNNING do the following: When AC clutch is ENGAGED measure voltage at D2_6. Should read B+ vdc. When AC clutch is DISENGAGED measure voltage at D2_6. Should read 0vdc.

TPS is a major component for fuel delivery. Normally when BC reading is set higher then 0.83vdc, I just noticed I previously posted 0.85vdc WRONG set to 0.83vdc, engine will have high idle, but maybe too low of a reading will cause the same issue.

If your Evaporator is icing up the Thermostat Switch will shut down AC until icing issues goes away.

YR??? ENG??? When LOGGED-IN. Go to upper right hand of screen. Click on Username. Click on Account Settings. Find and click on Signature. Add vehicle information here (YR, ENG, TRANS, etc, etc) and save. This helps everyone. This information will be available every time you post.

Loosen TPS mounting screws and set BC=0.85vdc. ECU will need time to relearn Closed Throttle voltage. Drive it.

Since its an election year, you may need a pair of these.

Try disconnecting the new ISCM. This will make for longer CRANK time, maybe allowing extra time for oil pressure to increase. You may have to work the throttle with your foot when cold.

Yea, many things happen fast on START up. Let's hope its not the "death knock" you hear. Maybe others here have insight to this.

According to SPEC's, it should soar to 3500 rpms. That sounds mechanical or something is just loose.

That's kinda of a good thing. Proves Idle Speed Control Motor (ISCM) is working as intended. Keep in mind that the fuel injector is above the throttle plate on 2.5L engines and needs to be open during START.

Depending on your engine (2.5/4.0) both have a Starter Relay, both are similar, yet different. Regardless of which engine you have take the Starter Relay Ground Terminal and run that straight to engine or body ground. This will bypass the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS), allowing ENGINE to START at all times. BEWARE: engine will start in gear as with any manual transmission. This will not help in getting the KEY out of the IGN SW in the column, but should take care of your starting problems.

Compliments of the CC Forum. Helps everyone stay on the same page. It's not perfect, but its all we got.

Let me know if you can or cannot open this. _mj1988electricalmanual_1.pdf

Try and get that Red Brick Tester (RBT) online. Both TCU B+'s & GND seem good. Check continuity between C234_C4 and D2_15 (serial data line).

Never doubt a "good eye".