LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW

It will track straight once your moving. When you take a turn the front wheels need to be able to turn as well since all 4 wheels are on the ground. It's not like a trailer with wheels just in 1 spot. If you lock the wheels you will not be able to turn, and most likely will not track straight while towing.

I've flat towed my MJ quite a bit behind the wife's XJ as well as a full size Chevy Pickup. This is what I do; TC in (N) Tranny in (P) or (1st) Steering wheel NOT locked Both d-shafts connected I'm happy to post a pic of the manual if you'd like. The only downfall I have with the flat-towing route is if you break something you'll have a hard time getting it home. But I guess it's better than breaking your wheeling rig that you drove there... Really only other advice I can give is the angle of your tow bar. You want it pointing slightly down. When you come to a stop the weight of the towed vehicle will push on you. If the bar is angled down it'll push the rear of the tow vehicle down, not up. It makes it much easier to stop this way. (ignore pic below, I was just setting it up) I don't know how big your rig is, but with 6.5" of lift and 35" tires it flat tows much better behind the Chevy Pickup than it does the wife's XJ. It's a much easier trip setup like this though... :D

I'm not gonna argue, but I do see rust on the TRE showing it was cracked. I also have a hard time believing that a wheel would break like that without something causing the damage (aka a rollover). The driver said he lost control as something failed in the front suspension, causing him to hit the bank, and rollover. The broken rim was just a byproduct of the accident. I just can not see a wheel breaking like that just by driving down the road. Also seeing that the tierod was bent I have to think that something suspension wise failed as if your tire just fell off I can't see it bending the tierod like that.

He was OK. Yeah a cage would of helped, but who really expects to roll their Jeep while just driving down the road? Few more pics. Trashed just about everything suspension wise due to 1 junk Rusty's part. Here's a video of a cop car ramming the Jeep to get it off the road.

Worst thing you can ever do. DO NOT DRILL ANOTHER HOLE! It WILL elongate and crack, than your screwed. Also using a drop bracket throws off the geometry of the trackbar in relation to the draglink and WILL cause bumpsteer. Do it right the first time, even if it costs more money. What you save now, you'll end up fixing later and it'll cost you more. You'll thank yourself later for going with a quality lift system.

This is why... Caused by a broken Rusty's trackbar just driving down the road. Product failure after product failure is enough for me to stay away. After seeing with my own Rusty's parts I'll never ever run another Rusty's product.

Powerstop Rotors and Pads are installed. I also rotated the tires and cleaned the rusty center caps; they look like new now.

Not at this time. We've got enough Jeeps around here I'll find something to put them on.

Better make sure your bumpstopped correctly in the front so the tire's don't grab the hoses at full compression. Got my set the other day as well for the wife's XJ. I think I'm gonna mount the resi's under the hood somehow. Don't have time to install them yet but the hoses are a LOT longer than I thought they'd be so I need to get creative for a safe place to mount them.

Look like RE arms to me... And that front axle is a D44, not a 30. Best guess is it's out of a TJ Rubi and it's a "half 44" than...

Been around T6's and warbirds all my life. Have a lot of time behind one actually. We at one point had over 50 of them on the field as all the South African imported ones (you'll see them with the bright orange cowls and yellow numbers on the side) were restored here. Got quite a few neat warbirds locally. Field was home to Scat VII (P51 Mustang) which was at one point claimed to be the "nicest" P51 flying and was the only flying Mustang that the Ace was still alive, but unfortunately we lost a good friend when he crashed it due to engine problems. RIP Jim! This was the last "cool" one we had. Been going to Oshkosh about every year of my entire life. Haven't been back since a good friend did this a few years ago. If you look close you can see my father in the pic. Sad thing is that the Avenger spend the night in our hanger 2 days prior. If your into warbirds I HIGHLY recommend subscribing to Warbird Digest. http://www.warbirddigest.com (yes I am connected :D ) I just want it to warm up so me the the little one can go putz around again in "her" plane. Blake the invite is always welcome if your in the area. :cheers:

I just used a set of the Rockcrusher one's when I swapped in my AMC20 to the MJ. Super beefy and they are a lot longer than the "Mopar" one's that are cheaper. Having the longer one's are important for a SOA application with the MJ's to help with axle wrap. Got them here. Your leafs are 2.5" wide. D35 has a 2.62" axle tube.

Don thats the difference between the SWB and LWB mounts.

Couldn't pass up on the deal of the Edelbrock Xtream Travel shocks. So I guess the OME's are coming off... Her XJ is in need of front brakes BAD. So figured we might as well upgrade while we're at it. Now if I can just find time to install the new parts. :fool:

Here you go; http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

HAHA @ Gar taking a leak. :rotfl2:

Here you go Pete. http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/door_hinge_repair.pdf

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... Path=12_57

Cut it out and start from scratch. I typically recommend the Mopar kit, but yours is way to far gone. Watch this; http://jeeptv.com/video_detail.php?mId=5881 , it starts around 16:00. I'd do something similar.

SCARY! Please don't put that on your Jeep!

HAHA Dave. Talk with Rebecca about that one... She to this day says "Man I really miss my Gray Jeep". Even with her newer, better, cooler, XJ she still misses that one. I guess it's cause it was her first Jeep?!? :dunno: I still tease her about that pole every time we drive by it. :D

Just a FYI someone must of swapped the D44 if it truly is a 1990 model XJ. I'd confirm 120% that it's truly a D44 before you spend any $$$ on it.

I thought we've talked about this before... Apparently it didn't leave an impression. When the TC is in (N) the front and rear outputs are NOT connected on a NP231. The ONLY reason that they spin is due to the fact that the wheels are turning, the driveshaft is connect to the axle, thus making the d-shaft spin. Don't believe me? I went as far as making video's to prove some people wrong. Here watch this; http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5494 AND http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5531 AND http://jeeptv.com/user_video_detail.php?mId=5492 I've flat towed and tow dolly'd SEVERAL XJ's and MJ's and have NEVER removed a D-shaft. All you need to do is put the TC in (N) and the tranny in (P). Never any damage, EVER. Now removing the front D-shaft won't hurt anything, and is fine if if makes you feel better... I'm happy to post pics of the owners manual also stating the correct procedure if you'd like...

Yes, up to '90 or '91 was the change over. ERRR NO! A D35 is a non c-clip axle upto mid 1989, than it went to c-clips (if you have an '89 the only way to tell is to pull the cover). So a 1987 D35 does NOT have c-clips.

Will post a public link in a few days once everyone's pics come in. For the time being here is a pic of a new JK Rubi on fire. Got it put out and after a bit of work he ended up driving it home.