jimoshel

I just checked all pertinant literature (Haynes 50010, Chilton 7939, Factory M.R.277) That I have. Have determined that 2.5 for years 84-85 was carb. '86 up TBI. Could not find a definate date seperating PCV and CCV. Gonna take a look at the emission sticker and see what it says. In the morn. To cold an dark out now.

Sounds like we're back to the ol "What did the previous owner" do or is it a Jeep odd ball. I got a '86 2.5, 5speed sitting behind the garage with carb and PCV

There was 2 bolts, 3 flat washers, 2 square spacers about one and a half in on each side. I believe I'm missing some hardware altho when I ordered I didn't think it would be included. On the instruction sheet it says 'made by Draw tite. I ordered it on line from the uhaul store.

No nuts or bolts. just a hitch. OK There is a wrapping around the middle. Gonna go check.

In Oregon we did that with our sand buggies. OK for off road but wouldn't do it for highway use. The boys with deep pockets would do it with new tires. There is a tool made for that. Plug it in a 110 socket. Had a U shaped blade on it. Cut grooves across the tire trying to stop short of exposing the cord.

I believe the carb was the determining factor. Carb,PCV. TBI,CCV

1,Use a heat gun on the relay located at the bottom of the radiator. With the key on the fan should come on when the relay reachs it's temp. 2. Start the motor and let it warm up.When the radiator hose gets to hot for you to hold your hand on it the fan should come on. There are more sophisticated ways but these are basic.

CCV

About 2 months ago I spotted a '88 LB 4WD in a guys back yard. 4.0, 5spd, Owner said it didn't run and he didn[t know why. He wanted $600. Would go by about everyother week and check on it. It was complete, nothing missing, nothing broke, nothing rusted.Yesterday I went by and both tail lights, Rear bumper,all 4 wheels, front grill and headlight assy were gone. Talked to the owner. He wanted $300 for what was left. To make a long story short we haggled for 45 minutes. I gave him $65 and he gave me the title. I go back Sat and get it.

Gee Whiz Golly, Wish I'd seen that B4 I ordered. Not after.

Women are so unreasonable. What in heck do we need them for anyway? Oh yeah. THAT ! :brows:

Fed Ex just left after dropping off my nice, shiny, black, new UHaul receiver hitch PN 75021 with a red tag on it saying "Do not reorder" Now I am curious as H*ll wondering how many they got left and how close to the last one I got. :dunno:

I had a clogged cat once. A dose ExLax took care of that.

I did that to a '70 Chevy Luv. I thot it was realy cool, but then I'm a convertable nut anyway. Everything I read up on it said the cab wouldn't need re inforcing but I did anyway. Got some thick wall 1in tubing and and made a 'U' around the doors. Then ran a brace around the back of the cab, connected to the rear top of the 'U'. Started to do the same at the front of the 'U' running a brace under the dash but decided that wouldn't be neccesary, It was great on a nice day but boy did that sucker leak when it rained. But then Luv's were cab on frame. Not unibody.

Why replace any of them until you know which one is bad? Then just replace it. If you already have a known good unit, then swap it and see. All 3 of these units can be tested with a ohm meter. Is it a heat soak problem? Get a CO2 fire extinguisher (every garage and vehicle should have one)and spray the suspected part. Just do one at a time. Don't blanket spray everything. Or a pack of dry ice. Just something to cool down the suspected unit.

Last time I checked I found Grills for $30 on FleaBay.

Got a E brake assy, just the ratchet part that bolts to the side cowling. Depending on how low your willing to demean yourself, I might be willing to part with it.

To smart we get to late To old we get to soon.

I hope you get as much fun and enjoyment from owning an American car as I got from owning British cars. 1938 Jaguar SS100 1959 MGA picked up at factory in Abingdon Totaled on a sllck curve in Elizondo, Spain Mileage 1,300miles. Owned less than 3 Months :shake: 1962 Austin Healy 3000 1964 Austin Healy 3000

MJ'S came with D30 and D35. Only the metric ton package or special order got thr D44. The yJ spring perches are 1-1/2 inches farther apart than MJ.

Your welcome, That's what we're here for. Jim :cheers:

It looks like a small shock absorber. Located at the front right hand side of the motor. Approx 5mm diameter, 16mm long, with the top attached to the motor and the the bottom going to a bracket bolted to the frame. It's a dampener, meant to absorb the twisting of the motor. It should be tight, No looseness.

Your right. Eight. Four on each side. But I believe I have mentioned B4 that my memory is failing me. Ahh,,,who are you and what were we talking about?

I was sitting in an Italian jail in Genoa. Some minor nit pikkin thing about flying a Spanish registered air plane into Italy without proper clearance. He was in the army in Germany. Took emergency leave and came down and bailed me out. And that's all ya need to know, and he got the 4WD LB with the Buick installation. Oh well, that's what kin is for, ain't it?

There are 6 bolts holding the bed on. Three on either side. There is the gas filler tube to undo. The mechanical brake system is bolted to the bed. Gas tank support straps are bolted to the bed,Don't remember if the spare tire carrier is or not. Believe it is tho. The wiring harness for the tail lights. And the ground located on the left rear for the Tail lights and gas tank. By putting a shorter bed on your going to have a space between the cab and bed, or have the frame sticking out the rear. Suggest you think twice about this before doing it. It can be done but will the final result be worth it?