jimoshel

Has anybody tried Viagra on their MJ, XJ? Just wondering if they got a 6" lift out of it or not.

I thot every street and parking lot in NYC was a UPullit. PS :agree: With mfpdm

I recently ordered, and received the 1989 factory service manual set.It included 2 copies of the Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures.I only need one copy. If anyone wants the other copy they can have it for shipping costs. GONE!

Yeah. I started to call him out on that,but he's right. To Canadians we are South. As Einstein said 'it's all relative' :Canadaflag: :USAflag: :USAflag:

There's A Smart A** In Every Crowd :agree:

Took Pete's advice today on my latest acquisition. Boy, it's sure a good thing I did. Paint was almost faded all the way down to the primer. Why another 20-30 years and I'd be looking at shiny bare metal.

So? Just swap the windshield with the back window. TASAIEC

I love big heavy cars an trucks. DD is a 68 Cadillac convertable.Luvs Waggys. I'd get it. When a car 's been sitting for awhile things go bad. First fuel, then gaskets & seals. I've gotten in cars been sitting 10-12 years, started them up and drove 'em. The old carbs, not FI. I've also gotten cars where there was a inch of hard tar in the gas tank and the fuel lines had to be tossed. Couldn't force a wire thru them.Also seals were tight. Thats life. Some survive. Some don't. When he brought it into your shop didn't you notice if it was dripping or not?

Dog gon it DJM. Don't hold back. Just spit it out and tell us how you REALLY feel. :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag:

This is not meant as a step by step instructions. Only to generate some ideas of your own. Start by making some drawings of what you want. Either on paper or or one of the puter programs. Use cardboard or scrap wood, paneling, and fabricate a mockup. I don't do any of that. Just look in the scrap pile, see what I've got, and start cutting, welding.Whatever.Locate a source of steel. Highway guardrails are nice, plentiful and also make nice runners for car trailers. Just don't get caught. Scrap piles are good source. Image Not Found Trailer frame rails make good bumpers. Image Not Found Image Not Found Narrow channel iron can be welded together for wider surface. Meant to push. Not look pretty. This one used 5"channel with 3"X3/16" for fill. 1/4" for brackets. Image Not Found Don't be bound by conventional thinking. Let your imagination soar. "It's hard to soar like an Eagle when you're with a flock of turkeys"

I've seen both methods used on some machinery, Seems like primarily saws and grist mills. However any thing that needs power can do it. Generally they leave the tire on the vehicle and position it so one of the rear tires is on a belt, like a treadmill, or set of rollers. Normally use a chain or some sort of restraint so the car doesn't move. Grandpa had a sawmill he powered this way. Instead of removing the tire he would remove the whole wheel assy and bolt on a tireless wheel.Then the belt over the rim.There was a jack under the axle keeping it off the ground. With the rollor method their wasn't any problem with fenders. With the belt going over the rim it had to be a flat bed truck or fenderless car or truck.

A razor blade will remove the decals.A putty knife or a long blade knife for the molding. On the adhesive for the molding again the razor blade. Heat gun will help. If your going to paint don't worry about neatness, Just scrape 'em off. Some solvents might help but I'm not familiar with them.

Red Green is mah hero. Band blaring in background. Fireworks overhead. :USAflag: :Canadaflag: :USAflag:

Drain everything. When you pull the complete motor tranny assy they are going to tilt coming out.Tranny- TC fluid will come out the tail shaft. Even if your careful or not planning on laying the engine on it's side after it's out, accidents happen so drain the engine oil also. Been there. Done that.

Of the many requirments to be on TV, smarts and accuracy are not one of them.

Prefers a challenge to the easy way.

I had the same problem. CAD not working. Didn't want to crawl underneath and get all dirty so I did it the easy way. Got two bicyle sprockets, mounted one on the front wheel and one on the back, both on drivers side of vehicle. Then I spliced a couple bicycle chains together and mounted it over the sprockets. Works great as long as I go in a straight line but whenever I go around a corner I gotta get out and put the chain back on. Thinking about replacing a couple of the chain links with rubber ones. Maybe get enough stretch there to keep it on. :cheers:

I have a Century QuickFix that I'm quite happy with.It's about as cheap as you can get and still have a useable unit. The Hobart's are a little better but cost a little more. You get what ya pay for. If all your gonna do is a little sheet metal repair then just stay with the flux core. If your gonna be doing any exotic, aluminum, stainless, get the bottle. Regardless which one Plan on spending a couple hours practicing. One nice thing about welders is they pretty much hold their value. If you don't like what ya get you can sell or trade it in and get another.

I like the clutch idea. Much more exciting. Anybody see where it went? However the torch is more practical.

:agree:

I like the idea of a cable over vacuam, electric. I would rather pay once for quality than twice for shoddy.

I have 2 Dana 44's that I have rebuilt and getting ready to put back together. I was looking at the catalog looking for a couple of lockers to put it them. Frankly I was surprised at the selection offered. Hadn't messed with lockers for ah,,,well,,,a bunch of years and haven't kept up to date on them.I would like selectables but that's not a firm requirement. No serious rock crawling, Just off trail and slick, snowy road use. Asking for any recommendations on brands to get and ones to avoid.

Awile back I got a '89 S10, 2.8, 5sp, 4WD. Yesterday I finally got around to looking at it, The rear axle is a Dana 44. Chevy Lug bolt pattern. To the best of my knowledge GM never put a Dana under the S10. Any comments? A careful inspection looking for obvious clues on it being a swap reveals nothing. Wire versus stick welds, Grind marks around perches, RTV on gaskets etc. It is a very professional job and looks factory. :???:

Went out to clean the corrosion off the battery terminals. It was to cold.Drove out into the pasture and chased the horses aroumd a little to exercise them instead :cheers: .

Always use soap an water first. And elbow grease. If that don't do the job then the chemicals. The trouble with older machinery is fatiqued materials. It's b*tch to spray an irreplaceble piece of fabric or plastic with a modern 'hotshot' miracle cleaner and watch it dissolve or disentegrate before your eyes. I've had good luck with these new wipe towels that's out.