jimoshel

Hit some of the smaller stock car races and you'll see cars from the 50's and 60s running with sponsers. It's possible.

When I was stationed at Dow AFB near Bangor I could drive from Bangor to Pueblo in 48 hours. But I sure wasn't going after no axle. :D

I've got D30's for $100. Where are you?

What has Injuns got to do with it?

The cover gasket.

Sure. Don't see why not. :D Juuuuuuussssttttt Kidding! Everyone always wants my stuff... Like my long bed roll bar, my short bed roll bar... And believe me... I only let you guys see the tip of the iceburg... Teaser shots: And that's not all the tails either... But don't ask if I am selling. I am what the medical community calls a hoarder. Sure, I might not be using it now, but someday I might, and I plan on having MJ's for the rest of my time on this earth. Got to stock up while I can. Rob L. ;) Sheesh..Competition

I had a friend in the scrap business ALA Sanford an Son. Big sign on the truck door and all. I would tell him where the car was and he would call on them and offer them half of what the car was worth. More often than naught, they would call me the next day.

Don't argue with them. That just makes them more stubborn and doesn't gain anything. Just politely tell them that it is more than you're willing to pay. Leave your number where you can be reached, wish them a good day and leave.

Farm supply stores have them.

Occasionally the plate on a floor jack gets in the way. I took a dumbbell, the small 10lb one and cut the weight off one end. Place the remaining weight in the jack pad with the rod pointing up. You can pick up 8-12 inches of working room doing this. Don't have a dumbell? Weld a piece of pipe to a steel plate. This is not a secure arrangement. Can have a tendency to slip, so make sure the Jeep is secured.

:agree: Also instead of removing one U bolt and leaving the other tight, try this. Loosen all 4 nuts equally. When the both Ubolts are hanging free replace one, then the other. Don't tighten one bolt up until you've replaced both. Then tighten all 4 nuts equally.

In the '50's one of the hottest thing you could do to increase HP was to port and polish the intake and exhaust ports and match the manifolds to the head(s). Then some smart @$$, er enterprising individual discovered that highly polished passages let the fuel form into droplets that would separate from the incoming charge. So now the hot thing to do was to deliberately weld knobs, protrusions to the passages to encourage turbulence. Can't win for losing.

Can't get PB to work , as usual. Going to try and email them to ya.

I got the pics. As soon as I get them thru photo bucket they'll be posted.

What year? Different years had different stuff.

That's the dumbest thing i ever heard in my life. Everyone knows you can't tighten a radiator cap over 75 pounds or you'l l push the core out the bottom of the radiator. :thwak:

Any piece of equipment can be busted, no matter how well or strong it's made if it's abused bad enough. You have to determine what it's going to be used for and build accordingly. Even the lowly BA10 and D35 have accumulated 100's of thousands of miles on them when treated right.

Ran my MJ thru a carwash. Picked up 8mph on the top end, took 2 seconds of my 0-60 time and gained 4MPG on mileage. Guy at the car wash charged me $40 to rent a loader and clean the bay out.

First thing to do is determine whether it is fuel or ignition. If it's fuel then it's possible the pump is going bad. Also possible is crud blocking fuel filter. If it's ignition then it is heat related. Start it and while it's still cold play a hair dryer around all the electrical components. Leave it on them until they get hot. This includes coil, CPU, ECM, relays etc. Or if it's already hot , then direct a blast of cold air at the suspected. parts. C02 fire extinguisher is great for that.

Most likely when threads get stripped it's because some idiot, er, some home do it yer selfer kept going when it got tight to turn, instead of backing out and starting over. IE, cross threaded.

Saw a '58 Chevy 348 with the number 3 plug out and hanging by the wire. The last thread and half was stripped. Looked like it hadn't been put in properly in the first place. Cleaned the threads up and screwed the plug back in, all the way. Worked fine. The lady who owned the car had been driving it like that for over a week. Somebody casually suggested maybe she should take it to a mechanic and have him take a look at it.

It won't work as is. The output shaft is different. It can be swapped but why bother? Get a AX15 for a 4WD.

I wrapped 2 rolls of duct tape around my Dana 35. Ain't broke it yet.

It's amazing how many people you can cram into a small area when half of them are females. I had a 1956 VW bug and 7 of us were in it heading for the beach. Me and 2 females in front and 2 males and 2 females in back. Things were going quite smoothly until the car filled up with smoke and somebody hollered that the car was on fire. Pulled over by a puddle alongside the road and everybody bailed out. Jerked the cushion out and threw it in the puddle and put the fire out. Seems I had been working on it earlier and I didn't put the battery cover back on. The weight of 4 people pushed the seat down on the battery and the springs shorted out, setting the cushion on fire. Fire out, everybody piled back in and we continued on our war, with a towel over the battery. :thwak: I checked all my MJ'S. half has 3 seat belts. Half has only 2.

Got tired of the '94 ZJ puking a half qt of 10-30 all over the plug wires every time I went to town so this afternoon I pulled the valve cover. Checked with Auto Zone on price, availability of a new VC gasket. Had a Victor for $5.49, cork rubber, guaranteed for 2 years. Fel Pro for $5.99,cork, guaranteed for a year. Another Fel Pro for $39.99 permadry, guaranteed for 1 year. What in heck can make a $34 difference in price? I got a couple tubes of that there red stuff. What the heck do I need a gasket for? :dunno: