jimoshel

No I didn't. Not that I didn't want but it was just to dern windy.

They had a couple of those at Shaw AFB. They were used as communication vans. Had a VRC-75 mounted in the bed with the panel flush againest the rear window. The window had been replaced with a slider so the operator could reach the radio. there was a 12 inch desk attached to the back of the cab. There was one saet facing to the rear. Beside the VRC 75 there was also a PRC 10 and some units had a Collins KW6. It would cover the entire frequency range from 200KC to 400MCS. Those of us who were ham operators loved it. It's primary purpose was radio relay for forward air controllers when the aircraft was out of range of the primary communications with the base. We lost 3 of them when they were over run by VC. Had a deisel powered generator trailer mounted for primary power. In emergency we used the 250 amp generator run by the power take off. Also had International P/U's with the same set up. Most of us preferred the cornbinders because of the greater horse power.

One of the others. I'm 76 today. The fact I made it this far is quite a surprise to every one who knew me as a wild @$$ kid who would'nt make it to his 18th birthday. Guess what? I'm the only one left of the old crowd. Theyr'e all gone. I'm still here. I guess that makes me the winner. My best buddy passed away July 4th, last year. We were buddies since we were 12 yers old.s he was 2 months younger than me. I been artying. excuse the poor spelling. Jimbo, The old fart. Not a dirty old man. Just a sexy senior citizen.

Is gas getting into the cylinder? The fact that it will start says the ignition is good. Grind the starter for 10 seconds. Then pull a couple plugs. If it's getting gas the tips should be wet. If they're dry, no getting gas. Check for voltage at the injectors. It's not likely all 6,4 injectors go bad at the same time. Possible but not likely. If no voltage check the circuit back to the ECM. If there is voltage take a hose, or metal rod and hold one end to your ear. Place the other end on each injector. You should hear a clicking as the inj work. No clicky, no worky. Upon rereading your post I'm not sure if you have MPI or TBI. If it's MPI the above paragraph applies. If TBI then you should see fuel spraying from the injector.

'86-'90 is the same. No difference between long, short bed.

What year? There are differences between Renix and HO and '91-'92.

FSM shows shims between hinge and hood only. Why not compare the two hoods and see what is different to make them fit differently? It is possible the hinges are bent but not likely. Compare the two hinges you have against each other. It's not likely they would both be bent the same. Of all the body parts I believe the hood is the most difficult to get aligned properly. MHO. :wrench:

I think your over testing, but nothing wrong with that. I have had two personal experiences where bad things happened while pulling a trailer. Once pulling a double axle UHaul from Wi. to Co. In the middle of Iowa the trailer began whipping and flipped over on it's side, pulling the back of the truck up off the ground by the safety chains. The trailer tongue separated off the ball. The hitch was undamaged. No 2 I was pulling a Jeep S/W with a tow bar when the right front tire on the Jeep blew. It began whipping and finally went off the side off the highway rolling both vehicles 2 and a half times, totaling both vehicles. The tow bar was destroyed. The hitch was undamaged. Just for what it's worth. Your doing a great job on this project. Every body appreciates it. Jim

Shouldn't even have to ask. RESTORE!!

Welcome FlexdXJ. There is a minority of people here who thinks the 2.8 is OK. The majority thinks they're junk. I've owned and drove the p*ss out of a couple S10'S with the 2.8 and have several XJ and MJ with the 2.8. I have a '86 MJ with the 2.8, 5sp, 4WD, LWB, 31'S and 3;55.Dern nice and dependable truck.

The HO engines are so well designed and built that there is really very little can be done to improve their performance without going to 'big bucks' outlay. Because of the small market not to many manufacturers make parts for them. A couple years back Crower listed 2 cams for the 4.0 but nothing for the 2.5. There are headers being advertised on EBay but I don't see where they would be that much improvement, just looking at them. They don't give any performance specifications on them. IMHO the best single thing that can be done to these engines is blueprint them. Time consuming but cheap and effective. Again, IMHO the one single improvement to be made is turbo charging, with more noticeable gains inland and at altitude, than along the coastal areas. You can have a cam reground at any machine shop but the disadvantage here, or advantage, depending on your point of view, is your moving, and, or narrowing your torque curve. There is also the option of milling the head for a point or two compression ratio. Have to be more selective with your choices of gasoline with that route. The old standby, headers and dual exhaust don't really gain that much with these engines. For just every day driving and reliability you're just not gonna beat the stock engine. If your building a full out race, competition machine you need big bucks, a trained, knowledgeable staff and limitless resources. If you have all that then your not going to be in CC asking for advice.

How to test a trailer hitch. Find a power pole, the thicker the better. Back vehicle, with test hitch, up to pole. Wrap strong chain around pole and attach to ball on hitch. 100 foot chain should be sufficient. Rapidly accelerate in a forward direction. After pulling your face out of the windshield get out and see if hitch is still attached to truck. If it is, it passed test. Suggestion, Don't use a pole with a transformer on it. They make a hell-of-a whump when they hit the ground.

The first time I went over that road was as a passenger, was to young to drive, in a 1938 Studebaker. It wasn't paved then, just graveled. Had to stop every couple miles going up and let the engine cool down. Stopped every couple miles going down and let the brakes cool. It had the new 'free wheeling' feature and it quit working so we couldn't ride compression going down hill. My aunt Bea told my uncle Bill that if he ever did that to her again she would [censored] to him. Next time I went over it, many years later, was in a shiny new 1970 J10. Couldn't even recognize it as the same road. They sure ruined a good trail when they paved it.

When I rebuilt my 2.5 I took a good look at the camshaft. It just seemed like to me all those bumps required horsepower to make the lifters ride up and over the bumps. Took my grinder and smoothed all the bumps until the shaft was perfectly round. It worked. After assembling the engine ,I could rotate it with just hand. Now if I can just figure out why it won't start. :dunno: :thwak:

I have a new, never installed U-Haul hitch you can have for $210, plus shipping. Also have a couple original MJ hitches if you want one bad enough. $10,000 each, or swap straight across for a '90, 91, 92 MJ. :doh:

I would try cleaning ALL connections first. First the battery, then the solenoid and then the starter.

It can be made to work but it's not a bolt in. The pump is shorter so the holding feature of the MJ won't work. I used 2 hose clamps and clamped it to the upright tube. Duct tape won't work because of being submerged in gas. The MJ is 2 spade plugs and the XJ is a plug. Very easy to modify. Check the rubber hose on the top of the MJ pump. There have been many instances reported here where the rubber hose has disintegrated, leaving a sticky gloop and the pump is good but the gas doesn't go any where except back into the tank. Oh,,YJ is Wrangler,

Spoken like a true Jeeper

It's not that hard to remove the plastic face and clean it and the gauges.

I would love to get my hands on a '92, even that one. It's fixable but I would have to get it for a $100 or less to justify the trip. All my MJ'S are 86-89. I don't have any '90'S and would love to get one, or two, or three. :wrench:

I have a 1984 and a '85 XJ 2.5 carburated, with serpentine belt. Seems odd that they would use serpentine and then go to a V belt later. Don't have a '86 2.5. All my '86's are 2.8.

I've got the glass for ZJ rear hatch, tinted, heated. I think they're the same. Want it, pay the shipping or come get it.

Would welding a re-enforcing plate on a D35 be worth the trouble? I've seen several pics of them but no comments on how well they worked.

Checked. My '77 J20 with original exhaust is cat free.