jimoshel

He is most the time. He's old, so he gets cranky. Rob :D That's me.. Mr. Cranky.... If I go to Motown.. I'm not gonna actually wrench.. I'm gonna stand around and b*@$£ about you damn kids and your fancy tools.. and talk about the old days when all we had was one hammer and a monkey wrench and we liked it. What was the monkey wrench for? Got 3 hammers in my tool box, Tap it, smack it. Whack the living s**t outta the sucker.

Hate to say this but the dog is the most normal looking character in the pic. :rotf: Unless something unusual comes up I won't be able to make it. Need any parts that can be shipped. let me know. May be able to help out there. How about identifying the folks in the pic?

I put a winch and boom on the back of my truck. Now if I break down I can tow myself home. :thwak:

There's no bellhousing out there that will allow you to put an AX-5 behind a 4.0 anyway. If you do a 4.0 swap, you'll find 3 different 5 speeds behind it: Pukey BA 10/5: 87-mid 89 AX-15 : mid 89-99 NV3550 : 00-01 Those are for the XJ anyway, I'm not entirely sure if the YJ/TJs used the same years, but they used the same transmissions. Don't need no stinkin bell housing. That's what duct tape is for.

It's not as strong as the AX15. Behind the 2.5 and 2.8 it will run forever. Behind the 4.0 it will break. Actually if you baby it, it will last behind the 4.0, but if you're going to baby, then what in H*ll you driving a Jeep for?

Any auto parts store will have them. Rubber hoses are standard sizes. On the plastic fittings you may not get a exact look alike but the sizes and shape are there.

You're OK on the tank, pump and straps. EBay is about as good as your going to get. However be sure and check the prices. I've as much as a $100 difference between vendors. Also check on shipping.

I don't know how many M38 and M38A1 I've gone thru, junked, wrecked, modified, restored, etc. Heck, They were dime a dozen and ready available 'back then' Would love to get my hands on a good one now. Good trade.

Looks like a blast. Where's Cable Hill at ?

Different prices in different parts of the country. In the last couple months I've purchased a 98 XJ sport, needs right front fender, hood and grill. Mechanically perfect. $500. '97 XJ, PO said it wouldn't start or run. Couldn't find anything wrong with it. Starts, runs every time I try it. $250. '94 ZJ, blown engine. $250. Replaced engine with one from a wrecked XJ, $400. GF using it as a DD. '93 XJ, smashed windshield and windshield posts, $300. '98 ZJ. wouldn't start. $400. Replaced fuel pump. Runs great. '91 XJ Door hinge pulled out of door frame. Door was held on with duct tape. Driver got in and out thru passenger side. $225. And a couple others. No MJ'S tho. I'm thinking about checking the price of renting a mobile parking lot and making a trip, or two back East.

Slim Jim. If you don't understand the workings of the locking mechanism, then don't bother. Even breaking a vent is cheaper than a locksmith.

Never really thought about it before so I went out and checked. MJ 2 '86 4 '87 4 '88 4 '89 None had the ballast resistor or any sign or evidence that they ever did. XJ'S. 7 XJ every year from '84 to '87 covered. No resistors. First resistor I found was in a '88. with 88 and 89 having them.

Any gas in the tank?

Seems perfectly normal to me. Why should we stop you? :wrench: :yes:

A lot of the time that's all it is. I have a '89 with the 2.5 engine. Often times it won't start and I just disconnect and reconnect the CPS connector. It starts everytime. The pins get a little corroded and the wiping action cleans them.

Nothing. It's not used. It's just there. Remove the connector from the coil closest to the front of the truck.It's a 3 pin. The rearmost pin should read +12VDC. This is the input voltage to the coil.

Wondering if this is the right time to mention I have a complete front axle assembly from a 2001 WJ 3;55, that I don't need.

If you have a chance to get a Comanche, get it. Irregardless of what's in it. If it runs good you lucked out. If it doesn't, then swap something else into it. I have a '86 MJ with the 2.8 in it and I will match it against any 2.5 anybody in the forum has. except my '88MJ with a 2.5. Yes, there are other engines more powerful than the 2.8 but that is no reason to reject it. Notice I said more powerful. Not better.

There is a difference in sulfer content. Off road is dirtier. Unless there's a warning label saying not to, try using kerosene.

Maybe they just changed the name to protect the guilty?

What they mean by 'slippery' is if you go to fast and lose traction, you're going to slide off the road. 4wd on a rainy, wet surface will help maintain control. If your tires are bald then nothing is going to help.

In the '70'S during one of the 'oil crisis' the all knowing idiots, er, brains in DC passed a law making 55 the national speed limit. Vehicles manufactured in the late '70s and early '80 s had a red mark at the 55mph mark.

Nothing like having all the details before making a diagnosis. If there is fuel dribbling out of the injector then it should start and maybe run, Not right , but still start. There should be a very visible spray from the injector. First thing to do is hook up all and every loose hose and connection. They could be affecting all kinds of things, Vacuum, signals, etc.. If after hooking everything up and it still doesn't run, then replace the injector. There should be a diagram on the radiator support showing hose hook ups. If thats gone or obliterated then get a Haynes Or Chilton. They do have emission control diagrams in them. If your going to be doing a lot of the work needed on your Jeep then get a FSM. They pop up on EBay a lot. If it was really rusty then there is the possibility you didn't get it all out and some got loose and worked into the filter, lines, injector. Check and clean if needed. :wrench:

If you really believe that, you might as well just quit now. :thwak: