jimoshel

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RIGHT!! I for got about that one. Belonged to Mike Chelbik. moving to Las Vegas for college, if I remember right. Putting a new radiator in it. So far I've got $200 tied up in it. Includes the trip going after it and parts. Nice running truck. I figure when Mike gets settled and got a couple bucks, he might want it back. I'm keeping a list of all expenses and he can have it for what I've got in it. Or if he doesn't want, I'll just keep it.

And just what area do you live in? Prices vary so much between different parts of the country there is no reliable standard. The least I've paid for a MJ was $100. Only needed a battery to run. The most I've paid for one was $650. I paid $250 for a '87 and it's been my DD for the last 2 years. Haven't spent a nickel on it other than gas and oil.

GF can't understand why I have such a strong dislike for her shiny new Dodge quad cab 1500. The bed sits 10 off the ground and I'm the one has load and unload it. I can't understand why she dislikes my MJ. Just because it's a little smelly and kind a noisy.

What kind of a set up you got anyway. I looked at a half dozen engine bays and I can access all the manifold bolts, nuts with out touching the TBI. Take a kitchen knife, or something equally strong and thin. Make sure it has a sharp edge. Place it on the gasket surface between the TBI and manifold. With a small hammer tap it into the gasket. Do this all the way around the base. Don't get in a hurry, take it easy. It will come off.

As long as the ign sw is on, there should be +12V at terminal 30 and 86 on the fuel pump relay socket. If there is no voltage on 30, check your fuseable link. There should be nothing on slot 87. It's empty.

I'm so hard up to work on the MJ that I have resorted to working on my folks 93 XJ. C'mon on out. You can have your pick of which MJ you can get your hands dirty on. Oh! And when your through you go but the MJ stays. LOL.

GOT IT!!! Akula, Thanks for the tip. I'd never got the dern thing if you hadn't told me what to look for. There were 6 bolts and 4 screws but damn if I'm going to hold 2 bolts and a screw against you. I've owned a flexible shaft phillips screw driver for 20 years. Tonights' the first time I ever used it. Payed for itself right there. I owe ya one. Jim

Sorry. It's an '89. I'll try that.

My Siberian loved cats. Heck, she loved everything. She'd lay on the middle of the floor, the kids would be on top of her playing horsey, the cats would be crawling all over her and the pups would be chewing, chasing her tail. Love them Huskies. Cute kittens Jeff. Got three cats in the house. One that rotates between in or out, and not sure how many outside. Seven I think but they're hard to keep up with.

Anybody tell me how to pull a dash without tearing it up? I mean the complete dash. Not just the instrument cluster. I got the two bolts on the bottom out and can swing the bottom out a couple inches. According to the FSM, there are two bolts and two studs holding the top in. I cannot see them or find any way to access them. If I have to, I can take a Sawzall and or cutting torch to the bod of the donor and since I'm replacing (or trying to) the dash on the donee, I can pretty much just rip it out. Not to worried about putting the new dash back in. I figure a couple bungee cords will work for that. Any help? :dunno: :help:

to Thunderbear, Lexluthier72 and all the newbies(and some of the oldies) getting aggravated and disgusted (IE;Pissed) at their MJ'S. C'mon fellas. remember. That's a 20+ year old Jeep your working on. It's been abused, misused, neglected, beat on, beat up, beat off and generally just led a rough, neglected life. One of the hazards of being a Jeep instead of a Buick. Anything worthwhile isn't going to come easy. Just stick with it and think of the feeling of pride and ownership when you're driving down the street in the only, or one of the few, MJ in town. Just think of what the people are saying as you drive by. Things like, "Man he must be hard up, driving that clunker," or "Well I guess it beats walking." Not to mention all the chicks looking for a ride that'll stick their nose in the air and walk off when you pull up to the curb and open the door. Then there's the batting down the interstate at 85, passing everything on the road, knowing they're reading that 'JEEP' logo on the tail gate and thinking "I'LL be pulling that a$$hole out of the ditch before we get to town." Seriously tho fellas, stick with it. It'll be worth it. And remember CC is here for you. Jim :cheers: :wavey:

What's the problem? Can't get the bolts out? Or can't get the TBI to separate from the manifold? Would advise against the incendiary. Get things to hot under the hood. Nor a frag. Leave pit marks on everything. A concussion is the way to go. :D

Never had no war heroes in my family. Had a great-great grand uncle hung for treason in the civil war. Had another uncle set a still unbroken record for days AWOL. Another uncle wore a dress to avoid the draft. That worked for awhile until they drafted him into the WACS. Had an Aunt was decorated by the enemy for putting over 200 soldiers out of service with VD. That's about it..

Whenever I have a questionable ground or just want to insure the reliability of a piece of equipment I run a wire direct from the neg post of the battery to the equipment. Saves a lot of headaches.

Not that I've noticed. I've heard where some fellas did this and had the inside of the tire rub on the LC arm. I haven't had that problem. I think there is just a slight difference between wheels that some will clear OK and others won't.

Oh boy, is this bringing back memories. Always used straight ATF but the Acetone should help. Take a piece of aluminum or brass and place it on the end of the rod bolts. Tap the bolts out until they clear the rod caps. You need the soft metal, or piece of Oak or Black Walnut to get the bolts started, broke loose. When the ends of the bolts are even with the caps use a pin punch to drive them on out. If they are really tight, you might want to screw the nuts back on the rod bolts to beat on. They don't have to come out of the rod. Just clear the cap. A Oak 4X4 will fit in the cylinder. After removing the cap rotate the crank until there is clearance between the rod and crank journal. Place the Oak, or hard Walnut 4X4 in the bore. See how hard you can smack it with a sledge hammer. Good luck. Jim

I'm running a set of BF Goodrich AT 265/75-15 on a '86MJ with the 2.8 and 4spd. No interference problems. No noticeable performance loss.

Almost 50/50. Eight has the pockets. seven doesn't and one is missing the panels.

Robert, my neighbor just left. Went in and talked to the dealer. Showed him the BOS and explained to him what all had happened. Asked him what he wanted to do about it. Guy ordered him off his property. Robert asked me if I was willing to be a witness in a court case. Naturally told him yes. Stay tuned for more details as the drama unfolds. Frankly I can't believe the guys that stupid.

X3, or get a front axle from a later model that doesn't have it.

I really don't know. Never thought about it. I never actually moved the Jeep and he never mentioned the speedo not working. I just noticed it had the 2WD ext and never thought no more about it. There was no oil leakage so all the holes were filled. I'm going to guess they swapped whole tranny.

Just had a 'you're shetting me' look on his face. Thanked me for my time and went into the house. But I could tell. He was pessed.

If there had been two more of them, it might have been a little more even. :peek:

My DD, '87 MJ has a clapped out interior with a busted up dash cover. Think, radio doesn't work so you pound on the dash. Then there's the hot Western sun beating on it. Parting out a '89 XJ with cherry interior but wrong color. Grey. MJ is Blue. I was just going to rattle can paint it to match but wondering if there is a better way. Really not sure how paint will bond to vinyl.