jimoshel

Ad in Colorado Springs CL. 1992 Jeep Comanche 4x4 Price: 5990 Mileage: 219565 Stock No: 2011A381 Vin: 1J7FJ26S5NL196578 Engine: 2.5L MPI I4 engine Transmission: Manual

Swap ya a brand new 1998 Jeep Comanche convertible straight across for it.

Only a sick mind would come up with something like that. Wondering how he beat me to it. :D

Your just not trying hard enough. :D

Picked up a '80 Scout this morning, complete but shot engine. $110. Has D44 with 4;11 limited slip. I've seen a dozen write ups on this axle but now that I want to read them I can't find them. Can some one please post a link? Why is it that when you don't want something you trip over it, but when you do want it, it disappears? :dunno:

Tnx guys. Hate re-inventing the wheel, altho I've always felt that if they were square instead of round you'd get better traction.

They only make two kinds of Fords. One kind lives up to their name, Fix Or Repair Daily. The other kind will go a quarter million miles without ever popping the hood.

Replaced the bench seat with buckets from a ''91 MJ. Replaced the instrument cluster with a full panel from a '89.

Why not use a temp sender from the head and screw it into the radiator? Or thermostat housing. Looks like with a bushing it might fit. Use the wiring already there and not have to modify. Just wondering.

They're using metal? Read 2X4. Thought they were using lumber. Might be a idea tho. See what the salt does to wood. :D

Been doing a little upgrade on my '87 2.5, 4 spd. Converted manual steering to power, swapped bench for buckets, changed instrument cluster to full panel. Tach works great. Didn't have to adjust anything. Picked up a D30 and D35 with lockers 4.56 for the outrageous sum of $50. He wanted them out of his garage. Tomorrow I'm swapping the broken foot brake for a hand brake from a XJ. Checked search and couldn't find anything. Surely somebody has done this already. Just wondering if there would be enough interest in this for me to do a write up with pics. :wrench:

A couple years ago I picked up a '86 MJ, 2.8, 5spd, 4WD. The plates on it were expired 5 years and I'm certain it hadn't been started in that time. What I did to it is what I do to any and all vehicles thats been sitting awhile. First visually inspect for any damage or missing parts or disconnected wires, hoses. Remove the spark plugs. see if you can turn the engine by hand. If you can then squirt a couple ounces of oil into every cylinder. Check for oil in the crankcase. I remove the oil sender and connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge to it. Now spin the starter for about 10 seconds. See if the engine spins freely and note if any oil pressure. If everything is OK replace the plugs, make sure it's got fresh gas and see if it will start. If it does let it run until it gets warm. Be looking for leaks and strange noises. If everything is OK, shut it down, change the oil and filter and you should be in business. Good luck. And as for the '86. It's my DD in the winter and trailing. Never gave me a lick of trouble.

Welcome to the club Ryan. First, DON'T PART THE 4X4. A cherokee, XJ, will furnish 90% of the parts you need and I know they're plentiful in Vancouver. As for the 2.5, in my opinion they're one of the most dependable and reliable engines ever to go in a Jeep. My DD is a '87 MJ with the 2.5 and 4 spd, 2WD. 190K and it does everything I ask of it. Maybe 5% of the time I could use a little more power but the other 95% it gets the job done with no complaints.

I went to a yard sale recently. Took Goldie, my '77 J20. Met a fella there had trouble understanding English. He could not comprehend what 'not for sale meant.' :no:

Actually it's going to the scrap yard anyway. I've stripped it of everything I needed to convert one of my MJ'S to 4WD. It's just an empty shell.

What's it going in? ? A XJ or MJ? If it's a XJ there should already be a harness with the plugs on it. I'm going to assume your putting it in a MJ. The orange should be going to hot, +12V. Big white to ground Via the door switch, Right front. Take a ohm reading and see if the 2 small white are connected to the Large white or the orange. They probably are for the reading lights on a XJ. 2 small white would go to the reading lights on a XJ. On a MJ cut them off, or tape them up so they don't touch anything. Velcro might hold it up. Or just make the bracket.

While installing bucket seats in the XJ I pulled the carpet and discovered THIS!!! RUST!!! Since I refuse to own a rust bucket, it's going to the scrap yard manana. Effective immediately, I am accepting NO packages from Michigan, or the NE. :rotf:

Did you remove the head bolts first? Just asking.

Maybe they should start installing 'Dead man switches' on office desks like they do on rail road locomotives.

Not sure if he meant the stop lights are on or the dash brake failure light. If brake warning then Flint54 is correct. If it's the stop lights , then the problem is the switch operated by the brake pedal. Remove it. Spread the gripping fingers out a little and re install.

It can be done. If you can devote 8-10 hours a day you can probably finish in a week, 10 days. Every part you mentioned can be swapped. Biggest problem will be rear drive shaft. Only a MJ drive shaft will fit and they come in 2 sizes. SWB and LWB. A XJ drive shaft can be cut and welded to fit. Think of it as a learning experience. Must agree with PP. Might be easier to find the vehicle you want and sell or swap yours.

Pulled the bench seat and installed a set of buckets from 91 MJ. In the process discovered the front inside mounting pad is sunk into the floor, collects water and rusts.

You're the only one who knows what your PCL, personal comfort level is, and what it's worth to maintain.

I'll have you know I autocrossed my completely stock low-mileage 94 LeSabre last year. Surprisingly, I didn't have the slowest time after the day was done. Almost, but not quite. Remember too, that NOT driving a vehicle is another form of abuse [think of the garage queen Corvettes and Ferraris out there or even cars left in fields or back yards]. Seals dry up, things start to not work right or not work at all from sitting. My 15 year old Buick has less than 70k on it and it seeps coolant and tranny fluid, and the rear brakes stick in addition to having contracted the early-90s paint mange that afflicts so many cars of its vintage. I don't drive it much other than about 20 miles once a month to keep it active and alive. It hasn't had a fill-up since early summer. /always thought the 90s LeSabres and Park Avenues had great looking front ends, but atrocious rears //may have to start looking for a 97+ vintage Park Ave Ultra some day Not sure if you took umbrage at my reference to Buick or just wanted to rave. I have nothing against Buicks. The first car I ever owned in my life was a Buick. A 1938 4dr convertible. I was 14 years old. Paid the grand sum of $40 for it. It's hood was longer than some cars now a days. I could just as well used Ford or Rolls Royce. As for the rest of your post, I agree whole heartily.

Once I seen a bad coil test good. '73 Dodge with a 383. Install coil, truck no start. Coil test good, both resistance across primary and secondary. No short between windings. One thing I have noticed. On some coils the windings are connected at the ground end. This seems to have some effect on how they test and work. Also when testing coils, and xfmers with a ohm meter the wire resistance is so low that many meters can't give a accurate reading. You can have a short between windings and a ohm meter won't pick it up. It's been so long since I've done it that I don't remember the exact procedure but the only way to fully test a coil, or transformer is to feed a audio signal in and measure the results with a distortion meter.