feerocknok

If KBB is based off averages, some people pay more than it and some less. Get it for less!

Road gear as in prodominately highway drving? 3.73 would be my suggestion for highway use on stock tires. For alot of city stuff, 4.10s. Cherokee axles need to have the spring perches relocated in the rear, do a search for that info, and make sure the gears in your front axle match that of your rear axle.

Gosh, this is a tough one. Arguments for the Mexicans: First, how many people actually knew about his law? I had no idea, and odds are they didn't when they put the Mexican flag first. Saying that they should know that law is a bit ignorant, IMO. They also did put up a US flag, Not just the Mexican flag. There's a big difference between the two. Arguments against: Illegal If you came here from another country, this country should be put first. Disrespectful IMO, should have been US on top whether it was a law or not, but I think that guy was way mad ragin'. Def didn't need to be that extreme.

The threads are by the frame, so they are on properly.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6475&

Everyone has an opinion, but they are really about the same. The only real difference that effects me is that different pictures are taken at different angles, so I buy both and refer to whatever one has better pictures for the project I'm working on.

Align em and tighten the jam nut. Looks fine, and shouldn't be the cause of the wobble.

Depends if you want 3" or 4". In the rear some people like add-a-leaves for 3" lift or a hair under. For 3" or a bit over, there's Hellcreek's 3" springs ($) or Rusty's 4" springs ($). If you're alright with more lift than that, 5-6" is moving the springs over the axle, which is cheap but requires a welder. In the front, I have no opinions or comments, and same for a complete suspension kit. Pieced mine together, and everyone has different opinions on here of which kit to go with.

Because the 2.5 is da bomb diggity! '86 FTW!!!!!!!!!!!

Edit for the non-MySpacers: http://a140.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/I'm ... 8f5303.jpg I can't stand suits, but love tuxes.

One MJ is my only Jeep here in Bend, OR.

I think those numbers might be just for 4wd, thought I saw that somewhere. Either way, you can still see the variation in production, plus that probably 1/2 of all MJs were 4wd.

Fram's had some problems with quality control that has caused either no filtering or super high oil pressure by filtering too heavily. Both of those things can destroy your motor. Conventional oil breaks down with time, not just mileage. Try to change your oil every 6 months, even if that's only 1500 miles.

They'd be fine. You need wheels with a bolt pattern of 5x4.5, and stock backspacing (basically how far the wheel sticks out) is 5.25". Less backspacing will push the tire further outside of the body.

SWB/LWB 1986 - xxxxx/23,251 1987 - 6,199/6,685 1988 - 6,895/9,167 1989 - 5,354/5,021 1990 - 3,283/2,129 1991 - 5,188 (TOTAL) 1992 - 3,142 (TOTAL)

Needs to be bought and truggied. 695 mile truggy.

What year is it? '86 is the TF904, and the best upgrade you can do with that transmission on the truck is to get rid of the tranny, with either an '87+ auto or manual. Also, an '86 auto will have 4.10 gears (most likely), so 4.56 gears out of an '87+ auto would be a good upgrade.

What does your '89 have for a drivetrain? The '91 would be a H.O. motor, so it'd have a different head and computer system, but the body and front suspension parts would all interchange.

Changing to an XJ shackle will rotate your pinion away from the direction you want to go and cause even more issues.

Doesn't look like it'll take too much cutting!

We did not check at the start of the project, but just went out and checked and it's 44 1/4" at the center of the rear opening. Lift height for the rear can be measured by finding the distance between the axle tube and frame, just inside of the bumpstop. Stock height is 9.2". Going from the ground to anything else would bring tire size into the equation. Good luck on your driveshaft issue!

Bad @$$. What are the extra 14 tires for?

All the pics are clickable, but here's the supply list. I may end up buying the brackets I posted, since they're so cheap, it seems worth it to spend the extra couple bucks. Rod ends for the axle side of each link and panhard: 3/4" CrMo, 0.875" mounting width, 28,081 lbs static load rating Polyurethane bushings for the frame side of each link and panhard: Panhard mount: 3-Link mount: Lower link frame mounts: 3-Link frame mount: Lower link and coil mounts: Any thoughts on the rod ends? I think they should be strong enough for my truck. My tires are tiny, I have a 4-cyl auto, and I don't wheel like there's no tomorrow.

Keep in mind gas tank location.

Straightpiping a 2.5 doesn't seem to work well, but getting rid of a clogged cat would be good. How's your air filter? Fuel injector? Spark (cap, rotor, plugs, wires)? 2.5s are slow, but not "fall on [their] face slow."