feerocknok

Easiest way I can think is sandblasting. Kind of guessing, but I think brake fluid should remove the paint, but I don't know what it'll do to the rim.

So how do you adjust preload on those?

Friend is running one. Likes the performance, but had to attack it with a hammer to clear the front driveshaft.

The spring rate is alot higher. I can't remember years on these. Late '70s maybe? Add-a-leaf and shackle would probably be your best bet in the rear. You can junkyard some leaf packs for add-a-leaves, and either extend your shackles or buy Chevy drop shackles to finish off the 4".

My dad always says that too. I said I had 10.5s, he suggested a 10" wheel. Most of his suggestions and comments are very good/informative, but I don't get this one... I definitely think an 8" wheel is good for a 12.5. Less chance of blowing a bead.

Would you mind suggesting or linking us to one of these joints?

2nd on the cut and socket thing. Only way I could get my lines off.

Any idea on the backspacing on those wheels or width? Maybe 10s with 2.5?

I'm not sure if you watched the Currie video or not, cause I remember you saying that the computer your on is limited, but he talks about that working off threads is Much better than just bushings, but they are still lacking due to the way that a suspensions system cycles in a large arc. Those 2.5" Johnny's are only like $30 through Currie! The 4x4 shop here wanted $57...

That's what happened. It's $140 I think straight from Rusty's new, and I payed $145 shipped 2-day for a "refurbished" part. The guy won't respond to my e-mails, so I don't know where to take this next.

Aaannnddd Johnny Joints are hitting the MJ this summer and probably the Toyota. I had never researched cartridge style joints before!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but those should be fine. The shock ends rotate, so you can just turn the shocks to have one end 90 degress off of the other. Isn't that how they are stock anyways?

Are you saying that it'd be fine to run a jonny joint on the street? I'm in the early stages of my long arm plans and would love to get the extra flex, but am not willing to lose ride quality. In fact, some of the reason I'd lke to change is for ride quality.

Stover nut according to Google images: Rusty's says to center the axle under the vehicle, put the bolt through the sleeve in the bushing and just move the bar up to where the tie rod end installs. Then you adjust it till it looks right. I figure'd it'd be like 35.4" or something, but it's just an eye-it-up thing.

I got it in! I disconnected the bar, cleaned the taper on the tie rod end, and installed that end first. I'm not sure if it was the cleaning or not attaching the bushing first, but thank you all for the help! And the truck now rides like a dream. Much better than my mother's Tacoma or brother's Ranger, which I think is saying something with a solid axle.

Truthfully, I would not buy a vehicle from '89 with only 32000 miles on it, because that probably means it sat for a number of years, so I don't know what someone would pay for this.

Can you find the 100 watters anywhere?

I grabbed a Rusty's adjustable track bar *grumble grumble*, but I can't get the tie rod end in all the way. I mounted it on the axle first, set the tie rod at the needed length (now that I think about it, I forgot to set the jam nut) but how do I get the tie rod end in the bracket all the way? I tried tightening it up and hammering it up, but it looks like the boot is stopping me from getting to the point that the cotter pin goes through. Should I toss the boot or will that fatigue the joint too much in the dirt? The boot is like plastic instead of rubber.

I'm not as upset as UPS as these things happen, but the (astericks) that sent me the part knowing rightfully well that it wasn't the part shown in the picture.

Got the new axles under the Jeep. Dana 30 and 35 again, but this time around with 4.56 gears from a Cherokee. Was a breeze burning new spring perches onto the axle. Not sure why I don't have pictures of them installed... I also installed a new brake master cylinder, adjusted the push rod, and bled the brakes 3 times. They're still scary bad though. The booster is fine, and brakes on all 4 corners are new, so I'm thinking it's the combination valve. :dunno: My Toyota proved to have a good place to haul the axle around: I've also decided to start looking for a used selectable locker for the Dana 35. I don't see myself breaking the axle and I need the traction. On top of that, so many other people are breaking the axle that there are alot of used lockers out there.

Sorry, negative post, but I need to vent. I just bought a "refurbished" Rusty's track bar from eBay for $76 dollars, and paid $70 (yeah, a crapload) to get it shipped 2-day air so I could make it to an out-of-town concert tonight. UPS took 3 days to ship it and it got here at 5. They guarentee 2 day shipping and for the package to arrive between noon and 5 on the 2nd day. So, I finally get the package, an hour to late to leave and open it up. I was sent a pretty messed up track bar. Mechanically it will work, but cosmeticly the thing's hashed. There are vice marks all over it, lots of missing power coating, gnarled threads, the bushing sleeve is damaged, and there is grease on the metal area near the bushing. The description stated only that was a part refurbished by Rusty's Offroad and showed a picture of a new part. :headpop: Pics! Video! Anyways, the pictures and videos aren't the greatest but I think they show enough. I'm just going to try to get my $50 upgrade to 2nd-day shipping back from him. That'll pretty much mean I bought it for $96 and got free shipping, which I think is fair for this piece of equipment. Rant over! And thank you for you time.

Yet Scott's Isuzu swap is what intrigues me :nuts:

I don't know anything at all about the Jag motor, but being that it is used in cars only, check out the torque curve on it, and see what the possibilties of getting a 4wd tranny or divorced t-case are. Also, check on weight. Aluminum block and head'd be pretty trick.

I can only speak for the deck I have, which I've been running for a 2 years in 2 different trucks. It's part of the Pioneer DEH line, 3rd to the bottom. Has decent features, MP3 playback, a 12 band EQ, and an okay amount of sub controls. Apparently I'm hard on my trucks :dunno: but it's still doing great. The only reason I will be upgrading is for navigation.

That's a nice wheel tire combo on both trucks. Can we get some more info on em?