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carnuck

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Everything posted by carnuck

  1. The electric motor We has was a variable belt drive for clutching. In the Jtruck it fit under the floor on the tcase front output. AC regeneration braking might stop better but converting to go to the batteries lets off a lot of heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If he added a curved skid under the diffs he wouldn’t hang up as much. What’s the weight of that 3 banger Kubota motor? The guy who did the yard work at my place really liked his. I just found an ‘84 Maxima with the LD28 diesel that lost reverse (Jatco overdrive automatic so it’s probably worn valvebody that caused reverse and drive at the same time. It’s a common issue around 100K) that might be a fun swap in a 4.0L Comanche with the later trans and tcase swapped in during rebuild. The Kubota 3 cyls are available cheap out here but the reason I like LPG is it’s just a backup source and the fuel has no issues with long term storage. I prefer the exhaust smell too. That’s why I’m parting my NPR 3 ton with Turbo diesel rather than fixing it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. No signature showing on Tapatalk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. They also make led grow lights as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Back in the late 70s I had a Black and Decker one. It had issues with grease in the charging slots and the ratchet mechanism only went 3 turns before you had to wind it back. I hand it until just a couple years ago and just used it in those spots were you could only get 1 click at a time on long fine threaded bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Could be a Lada Panda too or Nissan powered Jeep llanero. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Firestone ran out of 500s finally? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Sounds kind of cool. I had a design for my Jtruck to be hybrid with lpg to run the backup system. I considered putting a 2.5 with 4 4D batteries in front and 6 more under the deck then run an electric motor on the front driveshaft on top of the tcase. With a NP208 or 242 case I could shift to neutral, which would leave front and rear diff locked for 4x4 with Electric . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 31” tall and 9.6” wide. Nice stance. I’m looking for a ride or something to drive west from the Tricities, Tennessee area so I can get back to work on mine. I have sort of decided to keep the beater with 4.0L and convert to automatic then sell my ‘87 Shortbox MJ which is in nice shape except the 2.5 sucks up oil. I have to get my place ready to live in by the first of the month. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The exhaust pipe hangs down and stresses it out. I had to rat tail file mine to fit over studs. The water pump swap is probably when the stud was left out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I saved some factory mirrors from an ‘84 Bronco that did the job well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. It could also be the 4x4 or heater control vacuum leaking. Right above the gas pedal is one that was knocked off before I got my truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. If your belt is messed up with oil, that could cause your vibration issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Could the timing chain guide have dropped again? That would be noisy. Is the compression even? I know the 4 cyl is even balanced but the 2.8 V6 could be internally or externally balanced. If external, and an internal balanced flexplate is used, there will be a vibe. Same with Vice versa. Or if wrong harmonic balancer is used. (My old 304 did that with a 360 flexplate) I guess it helps to know the drivetrain combo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. I used to find them in the 4 Seasons catalog at NAPA but most hot rod shops have them too. I see them in the universal radiator cooling section too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. How does it bypass when the end at the front valve isn’t even drilled? It’s been a pain design that fills with air from the system if left open during an axle swap or something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Try jumper cables and see if it cranks faster and starts without a jump. My fuel pump relay go weak and wouldn’t latch while cranking due to a low battery (one cell was gone but the motor was so low compression that it spun over like it was going to start) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. First one is a relay. Usually long cycle for fog or high output head lights or maybe dual battery or charging a battery in a trailer for electric brakes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Dealer body shops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Does it only happen after warming up? Did you say your cat is an empty can? Did you clean out the fuel tank? I found two gallons of water in mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. If you didn’t change the fuel filter, as it clogs up the flow and pressure can drop. Take the MAP hose off and it’s like running WOT, so more fuel is dumped in. If it’s running too lean, it can help by adding more gas. Bad gasoline will make it run cruddy too. Especially if diesel is put in instead. EGR jammed part open will be an issue like that too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I’d be tempted to split the plate and swing it open like an accordion style fan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Renix are .70 O/D and HO AW4 are .75 O/D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Did you replace fuel filter? With MAP unhooked then fuel pressure has to be up for starting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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