mikekaz1

alright, fair enough, just return it then!

id say its pretty common to not be able to use "overdrive" while towing in most any vehicle. no matter how bad @$$, or good of a suspension and parts jeep may have given the MJ... when it comes down to it its still just a midsize pickup.

id just search for a set on MJ lenses.... but rustys does make steel housing replacements http://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-metal-tail-light-housings-pair-mj-commanche.html otherwise I would metal work late model XJ since they are plentiful and still jeep

the xtravisions are a nice unit. I really like the silver stars they work great, but have a much shorter lifespan.

does it give you turbo power?

its worth a shot, worst case it doesn't work and you put them back in the 96 housing and return it

use your original speedo and housing

I had a flowmaster on my TJ I hated it... way too loud. and awful drone. went to factory exhaust. I have a magnaflow dual exit on my MJ I like it a lot. idle sounds nice. under load it sounds throaty. and at cruising it is silent with no drone.

just a thought, no idea if it would work. but possibly swapping each gauge independently from the 96 cluster to the 90 cluster might work. its pretty easy to do.. just a couple Philips screws and a half hour

my passanger window is like that but more around 75% down. ive opted to just swap doors with a '97 and fix the issue and get a full window

plow taken off and chrome bumper installed.

I didn't scroll completely, and got really confused on that red truck and Comanche.

I made my own "putco" harness... about $10 and 30 min of work

ah ok! gotcha

...? rubber sheath? mine wasn't.... it was all metal.. or atleast I thought it was

you could also swap the engine and trans WHILE keeping the renix system intact. just have to swap the flywheel, distributor, intake and belt accessories. I have a renix engine and tranny in my obd1 MJ

btw is there any reason why the 2wd driveshaft is so much thicker then the 4wd shaft?

all the driveshaft places around me wanted $250 plus to shorten and balance mine. I went to tomwoods instead and for $200 I got a brand new warranted shaft shipped to my door

when they drew it up they got the height off and we didnt notice it until after they were cut. ive always just put the gap at the top when i build them. and yes, the 2nd and 3rd sticks of tubing i bought was a hair over 2.5" so i had to buff it down to fit, it sucked... and yes 47" tube, 46 3/8" outside to outside of plates. 46 1/2 wouldnt hurt though since it will come in when you tighten it. alright! cool, yeah I shaved the tube slightly on one side and they slid right in. and good point with the 1/2" since it will probably just make assembly easier and tighten down the extra 1/4 on either side with little to no issue.

question.... I finally got a section of square stock to make my hitch. now here's my curiosity.... went to test fit the tube and side plates. and found it didn't fit. so I measured the tube and found it about 2mm over 2.5", (not uncommon to be slightly nominal) but when I then measured the opening on the side plates... I fount the width to be 2.5" exact and the height to be closer to 2.625" why this difference? also... just to confirm myself, one of your posts said to use 47" bar and leave 5/16th extended out. so would it be safe to say flange to flange would be 46" taking into account the extended length and thickness of plates?

I have those. I used them without the bezel... if you use them without the bezel they fit 100% perfect with no modification to the panel

btw your grammas bad @$$!

very nice! ive never seen a front bumper with the molding like that before! I actually like it... id buy that factory rear bumper from you if I wasn't 3000 miles away. ive been on the hunt for a chrome rear factory bumper

plows off for winter now, just gotta swap bumpers out.