mikekaz1

I like 10w40 in all 3 of my current 4.0s. And rotella honestly seems to hold up better then others at that.

I believe my auto has the longer one

You should only need to take off the 4 fender nuts under the marker lights and the 5 (?) Torx bolts ontop of the radiator support. And it should pop off.

Couple things to possibly note... you measured right at the differential. these axle tubes are pressed into the differential housings. This can produce forces that can compress/expand the metal at/near the stress point ,even ever so minutely, but can gain a "thicker" reading here as apposed to center length. You also note its fairly rusty, and likely has 20+ years of paint overcoat. All adding to the overall width of the tube. To read a 2.75 tube after 20 years of outdoor use and abuse, I wouldn't be suprosed in a .17" gain

Sad to see that sweet blue paint going away. But glad to see its being saved!

agreed. But ive always have been curious on at least a ballpark of what the truck has on the body. Could be 100,000 rough miles or 400,000 babied miles. I know the engine only has roughly 100k. I swapped it in personally and was confirmed original components amd mileage.

hmm never noticed that before on any on mine.... of course i don't have many NOS units hanging around either

what about the obd1? hmm, guess i never thought about carfax either. how do they report mileage? ive never really messed with them before, but was always under the impression it was reported incident based, or do they also get inspection details?

my truck was bought from NY where I guess they automatically mileage exempt all vehicles over 10 or 15 years old. so the title was mileage blank and my cluster was also swapped out at one point in time for reasons unknown. so I don't know truly how many miles are on this pig. does anybody know a way to source or find out the milage on something?

They could even be the right u-bolts and they're just splayed out a bit. They're not exactly a dimensionally critical part and its common for then to only be close. I assumed he had measured the tubes with a caliper or squares. ...that's what one would assume.... but you know what they say about that. :yes: all his pictures are specifically measuring u bolt widths not tubes. which is why I stated a circumference measurement would be better. I do agree with the worn and spread theory also.

it will "work" but its missing a body line. won't really look correct

could it be that someone just used the wrong u bolts at one point in time? and that they aren't 3" tubes as this is not a documented measurement.. what about taking the circumference measurement right from the tube and reverse calculating it to diameter. circumference divided by pi

Controlling the auxiliary fan. ah ok!. does anybody know if they still produce these "add on" kits? ive always thrown around the idea of adding AC to my truck. would these benefit vs a factory swap and splice?

Wait... whats the radiator switch for?

I have 4.10s on my TJ with 32s with the 3 speed tranny. 70mph is 3k rpm. And will run that all day getting 15mpg.

Could very well be this. The Renix and HO AW4 transmissions use different throttle valve cams. CAM PACKAGE, Throttle Valve 87-90 83504338 91-01 4637026 Good luck finding the newer cam package. Since the pump is fried and may have taken out other hydraulic parts with it, you might be better off replacing the tranny with a 91 and up AW4. :dunno: I have a renix AW4 in my HO truck and I have no TV cable issues..... and my internet works great too! :thumbsup: How did you route it? The Renix cable is 6" shorter or so. I'm running a HO intake/TB with Renix controls and tranny, I made it work but I had to cut up the brackets and some other creative nonsense. I just ran it over the valve cover in a kind of diagonal. Not perfect but completely usable. Its a little annoying doing oil changes as it runs pretty much over the fill. But theres still enough slack to push it aside. Amd I don't drive it more then 2 or 3 thousand miles a year so its not often enough to bother me

Could very well be this. The Renix and HO AW4 transmissions use different throttle valve cams. CAM PACKAGE, Throttle Valve 87-90 83504338 91-01 4637026 Good luck finding the newer cam package. Since the pump is fried and may have taken out other hydraulic parts with it, you might be better off replacing the tranny with a 91 and up AW4. :dunno: I have a renix AW4 in my HO truck and I have no TV cable issues..... and my internet works great too! :thumbsup:

yeah sorry bud.... for a mod that is as simple as plugging in a new cluster, I don't see why anyone would want to add a stand alone tach unless it was absolutely necessary.

nice

chances are anything that handles refrigerant. is impossible to replace without releasing the contents

I guess the next question is why are you wanting to replace them... seems as if they are still intact.

pretty much all trucks from the 80s and early 90s used the hard bar "straps" id imagine most are interchangeable and may even be found in the "help" section of parts stores. or convert to cables, again, from a comparable truck, (s10, ranger, Dakota) I probably wouldn't try from a CJ as its not really a comparable platform.

factory e fan is set to activate at 216* I believe. which is right about where you are. 190*-220* is completely normal for these trucks

stupipd question, have you tried depressing the shrader manually on the low side to see if theres actually any pressure there?

careful if you try heating them. the plastic will permanently yellow if you use too much heat.