rokinn

At one point in my life my wife and I owned a VW camper van. We occasionally slept in it in sub zero temperatures. On these occasions, between our bodies and our moisture laden breath we would awake to frost covering the entirety of the van. Once heat began to be produced by the heater the frost would turn to condensate and drip. This phenomena only happened when we were in there producing humidity. A kiln removes moisture from a substance and puts it out into the air (not to mention any other sources for ambient moisture). The cold condensation surface is eliminated by the insulation but the humidity is still present in the air. You have a source of moisture and higher humidity in the cab that condenses onto the cold surfaces of the cab and drips when there is enough build up. Eliminate the humidity source (whatever that may be) and you solve your problem. If it's not obvious then it's hidden somewhere. Like I said, the insulation under the mat/carpet can be a large reservoir of water from whatever source. Mine happened to be poorly sealing doors which would drip water down onto the floor as snow melted or it rained. Winter in eastern WA isn't the best time to be pulling up carpet but if that is indeed where the water is being held then your floor boards are rusting away. If you can leave your windows cracked open a bit (without allowing rain or snow in) then some of the humidity will escape the cab and not condense as much in the cab until you can get at the floor. If indeed that is where it is being stored. Of course, as always, I could be all wet...

Is the condensation there when you get into the cab for the first time on any given day or does it develop after you start driving. About the only time I have seen condensation develop after starting to drive is when the vehicle has an air recirculation button to prevent outside air from entering the cab, which MJ's don't have. The temperature difference shouldn't be that great between the inside and outside unless you get a lot of solar gain, which may be the case. I would check underneath the carpet/mat to see if there is water being held in the flooring insulation material. If there is much water in it this would create enough humidity inside the cab to create condensation. Mine had a lot of moisture in said insulation when I pulled out the vinyl floor covering. It wasn't easy to get to dry either. Good time to mitigate the rust on the floor pan then as well.

I've seen engines behave this way from vacuum leaks. Might be worth looking at also.

The leak could be...all of the above. Was for me! I saved the rear main for last because it's time consuming cleaning off the mating surfaces if it's never been done before.

I went to a Redline distributor with the intention of buying MTL. The guy asked if I would like him to look up the recommended gear oil for my MJ. He said 75W90 NS (GL-5) was the proper oil for the AX 15. I said many of the owners of MJ's recommended MTL. He apparently is on a first name basis with the head scientist for Redline and gave him a call there and then. The answer was the same, 75W90NS. So that's what I purchased. I have to admit that 2nd gear is notchy until the oil warms up. I can't say it was there before or not because changing the trans oil was one of the first things I did after purchasing it 2.5 years ago. Next time I think I will go with MTL or possibly Amsoil just for comparison.

I can see it Now there's real innovation

Yup. No permission to view also.

My bench had the cheap vinyl seat covers and sagged on both sides to the point of discomfort everyone complains about. I found a bench in the JY that had good fabric covers, which I got. I also got the two seating springs from each side. I zip tied the new springs overlaying directly onto the old one in my seat. I think I used 100 ct bag of the mini zips at every conceivable point it might shift out of alignment. I then used longer zip ties in an interlacing pattern so the convolutions in the double spring setup wouldn't allow for much separation between them. I then covered that with a heavy fabric, put the foam back and the seat covers on. The sag was reduced dramatically resulting in much better support. Finding the second set of springs for this is the challenge but I can imagine there are a few just sitting around left from those who have switched to buckets. Just another possible option for those wanting to keep a bench. I recently did a 2500 mile round trip towing a 1300 lb popup and a bed full of camping gear and extra water with my daughter and we both found the seat to be quite comfortable. Not bad for my Junk Yard salvaged MJ if I say so myself. I was able to cruise the interstate at between 70 & 80 on the flat quite easily and had nary a problem with it the entire trip. I also have tilt forward buckets to try but I am waiting until I can find MJ floor brackets so I don't have to take them from my bench.

Ditto

Nice after the fact edit there. The second sentence wasn't in your original post. An attempt at a little levity on my part(seems these things are easy to misunderstand in this cyber world ours) turns into a personal attack response from you. My apologies if you thought I was being somehow denigrating toward you. It wasn't meant as such. Have a nice day.

Then my terminology is backwards and thus my description faulty. The ZJ worm gear got me the effect I was looking for. Thanks for the correction and clarification. :bowdown: I seem to recall a preference by some to the "slow hand." :chillin:

Sounds like we are thinking in the same vein. I'd be curious about the 10:1 ratio when you do it. I imagine I think I might prefer is as well.

I found it to be hyper responsive thus requiring hyper vigilance when just cruising down the road. Granted, replacing most of the suspension and steering components improved the need to correct the wheel also but I like the feel of putting a little more intention into the wheel when cruising and I don't have a sense of it being too slow around town either. Perhaps fast and slow aren't the proper terms. I haven't had direct experience with towing from pre and post rebuild and thus can't verify myself, but the rebuilder said I would also find with the slower gear that what was being towed would have less of an appearance of a tail being wagged. Reducing pressure in the power steering pump has made it sound a lot less like it's ready for lift off also. Whether the pressure was above what is normal for an MJ I can't say but he did say it really didn't need to be as high as it was and still do its job properly. The steering box was totally shot and from what I could gather buying a remanufactured one was a crap shoot with low odds of it lasting very long which is why I had a local guy with a good reputation rebuild it for me. The one in it was a reman, just to prove the point. So far I'm happy with the result. Cost was $150. Not all that much more than a remanufactured one and I find doing things more than once from insufficient quality control to be highly annoying. Besides, I like supporting the local economy and stay away from cheap Chinese crap when ever I can. Sorry if the answer was overly long.

I wouldn't recommend buying a rebuilt one if you can avoid it. I had mine rebuilt by a local company that does that and had a slower worm gear (from a ZJ I believe) installed. He also lowered the psi in the power steering pump to about 9psi IIRC. It's a much nicer steering experience now.

This looks like a good alternative also. From the installation instructions it looks like one needs to do a load sensing valve delete or braking complications will arise. As usual, one thing leads to another. Not sure I can put this together time wise before mid September when I want to do a road trip. Something to keep in mind though. thx

The Areons by Timbor look interesting. As usual, the more I enquire the more unsure I become. Then it's just make a choice and live with it. thx for the info.

By standard springs do you mean the MT ones or the just the 3/1 stock springs? Do you know how much ride height was added with your current set up from what would be factory height? Mine is currently 7&1/8" in front and 8" in the rear. I'm looking at the MW MT from GS and the OME 930's to beef up the suspension for towing. My tires are 215/75/15 Firestone AT's. They are going to be there for awhile as they have less than 5K on them so I don't want it to look too goofy with the added lift. I think less than 2" would be fine, more, not so much. I'm going to install a Dana 44 in the next month so a little lift will help with the drive shaft mating to the new axle issue, I'm hoping. Chime in on gearing also, I haven't decided on 3.55 or 3.73 yet. I'm leaning toward 3.73. thx.

If it was swapped in, that makes at least two. I picked up the same from a JY in Denver. Still sitting in my garage as I contemplate what to do next :???:

Email is fine. I'll pm you.

I'm looking for L&R short (non hockey stick) black arm rests in good condition, if anyone has them. thx

Great! Thanks for clearing that up. Looking forward to the upgrade.

I used Redline 75w90 NS which the Redline chemist insisted was the correct product for the AX-15. It was the first thing I did when I bought the truck so my experience with shifting wasn't well acquainted but it shifts very poorly from 1st to second especially when cold. Wondering if anyone has experience between the MT 90 and the 75w90NS shifting?

I've done the ZJ V8 TRE upgrade but still have stock drag link. It looks like you bought the stock Cure p/n 2008 but linked to R1768 which is for the ZJ V8 TRE. I have the half inch pin on the TRE. Do you know which one I would need. I'm assuming it's the R1768. thx

No lifts or larger tires are planned or desired. Right now I'm looking for more secure traction on mountainous dirt semi-steep and bumpy or rutted roads but good highway performance with possibly weight in the bed or towing of no more than 2500 lbs, preferably less. Right now I'm running 215/75/15 and like the way they handle. A gear ratio that will perform those functions as well as mountain highways. I don't mind shifting down but the 3.07 reaches the point of being kind of gutless on mountain highways. A 4wd conversion may happen but most likely not, at least in the near term.