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Everything posted by Dave Stark
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AMC 150 compression test specs
Dave Stark replied to 1987Comanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
A piston engine will actually run on very low pressure (70-80PSI), if with very low power. The most important thing to look for is difference in compression between cylinders, if you have a difference of more than 10-15PSI on any of the cylinders then you have a problem & it may be time for a rebuild. You'll be doing good if you in the neighborhood of 140 - 150 PSI on all cylinders. ~Dave :banana: -
New to CC.com and new to me 1988 MJ Eliminator
Dave Stark replied to JACKED88's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Very sharp truck! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: That doesn't look like the original interior (only because it is so clean), do you know if its been replaced?? :cheers: -
If i lived there i would have to buy one of these: Image Not Found :USAflag: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :USAflag:
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Welcome, I'll be moving to Dallas next month, I'm doing massive work to mine & will probably have some extra parts so make sure to post up... :wavey:
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front end shaking....I give up....update 10/15
Dave Stark replied to oldrusty's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
:agree: Mine were so bad on Drippy that it was metal on metal. I went through http://www.energysuspensionparts.com & got the bushings for the entire truck for around $100. Definitely worth it. ;) -
:cheers: :cheers: Guinness for me. :cheers: :cheers:
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I've got the new style doors now off the same C4C '98 XJ & thought that since I've already taken so much from this site that i should give back a (very) little. Hopefully this will help some others wanting upgrade their doors get it done faster. The hinges are a direct bolt up, so this write up is for the catch: After you've bolted up the new doors remove the old style catch & use a marker to place a line where the new one will be centered. Next remove the seat belt & dust guard. Now you will be able to reach the back side of the nut plate for the old catch. Many of you will not like this, but with very light pressure you can break the spot weld without damaging the surrounding area. After that you can pull the old nut plate out from behind, this is what you will come up with: Now go to your old doors & pull the bottom nut plate. You will be able to reach it through the speaker hole. This one is held on with tabs that can be bent with relative ease. Now, in order for this to work you will have to take a 3/8 drill bit & oversize the holes. This is a very small difference from the original hole size & will not affect the bracket in the least. Next, make marks on the door jam where you want the new catch, i placed mine as far toward the inside of the truck as possible. Using a 1/2" bit drill the holes so that you will be able to adjust the bracket. I used a Dremmel tool with a reamer bit on the top hole. From here it is just a matter of holding the nut plate from the back & threading in the bolts on the front. (Note that the inside edge of the catch is against the curve on the door jam.) Here is the finished product. I like the touch with the sad face because the XJ was C4C. All in all it took about half an hour per side & it turned out really well.
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Very glad to see that its off the blocks :cheers: I'm thinking flatbed?? :dunno:
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Wired the lights for my new header pannel. ;)
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This will most likely do what you need: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95020
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Installed latch catcher so the doors i got from a '98 XJ will close properly. :brows:
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That's such a shame, still just a kid. They will get what they deserve.
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I replaced my radiator in the parking lot of an apartment complex. I rebuilt my entire VW beetle at various places (grocery stores, Walmart, parts stores, roadside), almost never had to do any work at home :clapping: Only had 3 fires in the thing too :ack:
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In addition to the laundry off the winch cable there has to be at least one dead car in the front yard, preferably on blocks. :D
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Fuddled with mounting brackets for some buckets i got out of a '98 XJ. It's much more difficult than i thought it would be, sigh. :roll:
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What you need is to find a rust free XJ shell & start transferring sheet mettle. Don't give up. :popcorn:
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Grizzly Grip (bedliner) the 89 MJ
Dave Stark replied to azscott's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Looks like you got yourself a stucco truck :thumbsup: -
And I'm spending all this time & money fixing up mine :fs1: What a shame :wall:
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re-gear for towing, easy SUA axle swap for 4x4?
Dave Stark replied to CRF136N's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Lake Tahoe is not that far from Sacramento. JW JEEP will most certainly have what you need :typing: -
At first i thought this was going to be some really elaborate racial joke. It's sad really because if this was presented one hundred years ago, it would probably be a valid scientific theory. :doh:
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Save that hardware, you'll be surprised at how often it will come in handy :smart: PROTO tools??
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What about Mouse Milk? :bowdown: ATF & Acetone? Sounds dangerous :eek:
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Gotta love how the salt builds up on everything there. BTW, where's your shock?
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Does the FSM come with a troubleshooting guide? The Chilton manual is rather....Lacking? :nuts: I also have a '91 & would love to have a copy as well...
