Tommy

I tried to join when I still believed there military was protecting American freedom, I got a medical rejection, though in hindsight that was a blessing. While knowing the vast majority of soldiers are just average Americans doing a job they are proud of, I don't believe in the way the military is being used and am glad I didn't become a part of it. And, no, I'm not an anti-American commie Nazi terrorist.

with stock wheels I wouldn't worry about 2 inch spacers. if you were running wheels with 3.5" of BS and adding 2 inch spacers I'd be concerned. just buy decent quality spacers and install them right as described above.

Where are they leaking? Try putting a dime or penny under the latch of the vent window to see if that tightens it up.

I towed a Comanche on a uhaul trailer using my friends Colorado z71. Worked fine, told the uhaul guy I was towing a 28 model a. Was only towing it 20 or 30 miles on country roads. The Comanche had 33x12.5s so I had to air down to get the straps on. I think 31s would have been fine.

Drive an 88 Fiero and try to honestly claim it handles like crap. Or a properly sorted pre 88

Check grounds? Left tail light ground, refresh?

I don't care for the annoying resonances of exhaust dumping under the body, and the weight and back pressure are negligible. This isn't a race car. And I'm adding 100 pounds worth of bumper anyways.

My truck has some cheap auto parts store brand Chevy shackles that were installed by the previous owner. With those and ~4 inches up front it levels nicely. I can't see them being a problem strength wise. They're pretty beefy. They look as beefy as the stock shackles on my dad's 3/4 ton Silverado HD.

I dig that thru bed routing. I think I'll steal that idea

I just got the rro mounts in. I chose them because they are the only ones that are specifically for the mj. I haven't installed them yet but they look to be of solid quality. Came with all hardware and straight forward instructions. They are not one piece, there's the main drop bracket and a second brace for each side which is designed to bolt to the mj gusseting. They shipped a little slow, and when I emailed asking them for an update it took them a couple days to respond, but when they responded they told me exactly what was up and when to expect them, and they arrived the day they told me they would. Overall I would recommend them.

that's a better way to do it. I was too lazy, and liked the idea of stainless.

Do you mean the j bolts that attach the straps to the bed? If so, I just bought some SS eye bolts and cut a little of the eye side so it would hook into the mount on the frame.

Cutting springs is fine if done right. Some of the manufacturers even have pages explaining when it's appropriate and how to do it.

I've got a slider with one of the panes replaced by a previous owner with acrylic or something. I've been planning on using that 4 piece unit but I love the slider.

Yeah, I will be moving it when I swap doors. That was why I bothered mounting it on this garbage door. You're right, the bar is right in the way

I've got a parts truck with an soa 8.25 I was going to swap into mine until I decided it was too high. Then I considered swapping it and using some composite leafs I saw on this forum that actually drop the truck a couple inches. I figured with 5.5 lift from soa, the extra inch the current shackles are giving it, then the 2 inch drop from the springs, I'd be at about 4.5 total which is about what I want. Ultimately I decided that was a huge convoluted mess of compromises and that I'd be better off waiting until I can do an explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and stay spring under and get my lift from shackles and/or lift springs.

I mean the trailblazer ss guys running ls2's and awd making big power numbers. Looks like they use a 4l70. Either way, 5.3 and 4l60 from a 4x4 Chevy pickup, easy to get good numbers out of the lsx line. Have the trans built to handle decent power, grab the awd tcase from the silerado or trailblazer as. Make it work.

What do the high power tbss guys use?

Lsx, 4l60e, new venture 120 or 149 awd tcase(Silverado ss or trailblazer as awd). Driveshaft and ujoint changes to adapt to the tcase. Diff's to handle the power.

Hi all, I picked up a 90 Comanche in September from a guy who didn't really know what to do with it. It's a 4.0/AW4 4x4 with 144k. Pretty standard. Unfortunately I'm in Chicagoland, so it's seen it's share of salt. The uniframe is pretty solid, but the rockers are gone, the doors are a bit rough, and there is rust around all 4 wheel wells. The PO didn't bother fixing the rust, he just tried to cover it up. On the bed he used drywall screws to attach bits of plastic over the rust above the wheels. Then, as the rust spread from there and the new screw holes, he attached another piece. And as it spread from there. he attached an old license plate. And more plastic pieces. Until each bedside was basically license plates and plastic sheets held together with screws and bits of rusty metal. Then he sprayed autozone "bed liner" on just the outside of the bed. My dog enjoys it. After I bought it I found a member on here was selling a truck with a bad frame but some good parts, so I picked this up. Pulled the bed off mounted on mine Also found that the PO had "lifted" the front of the truck with the rubber pep boys blocks you jam in the coils to keep them from compressing. Pulled those and the stock coils out and swapped them with the lift coils from the parts truck. My truck is much more level now, no more hot rod rake. Mine also hadn't come with a bumper, so the week I bought it I ordered one from Nates 4x4. I like the simple bumper more than the crazy compound angled, dodecahedral stuff that seems popular around these parts. The price was awesome, too. $207 shipped to my door. Very heavy duty and came with all hardware and the mounting plates go way up the frame and are very heavy duty. I already used it to tow a 20 ft cuddy cabin Searay without issue. The truck really impressed me, didn't give me any trouble at all. The only thing I didn't care for were the pathetic little mirrors. I also wouldn't have minded stronger braking with the boat back there. Speaking of mirrors, I also decided those had to be fixed. I decided to go with bigger stainless Bronco type mirrors. I test mounted the driver side on my old door so I could decide if I liked them and where they needed to be mounted before I put the better doors on from the parts truck. I also swapped the bucket seats out of my truck for the bench out of the parts truck. More functional that way. That's pretty much how she sits. I can't tear into it too much because winter is coming. I ride my motorcycle all summer(didn't have any other transportation until I bought the MJ) so next year I'll be able to have the truck off the road long enough to make real progress. In the mean time it'll be minor stuff like this.

If I was going to go to all the trouble to swap something I would go ls 5.3/4l60. I can't see doing all that work for a 4.0.

I've seen xjs at 3 on 33s, but they cut a lot. 4.5 on 33 is my aim as well, I decided against SOA because it's just a little too high. I've got an 8.25 with the perches already set up for the mj but I don't want it that tall. Maybe the next one will get it.

I like it. I've been considering doing the same rough thing to mine.

I've been looking at the steering upgrades from Serious Off road. They have dinner beefy looking stuff at decent prices

Weird, mine doesn't leak or whistle at all, but when open the swivel is loose so it won't hold a position.