kyleag89

:agree: There is a spot on my frame that had to be repaired and it looks to be about an 1/8" thick at most.

Is that a bed frame or something or did you make it yourself?

I have been using the Bosch filter, comes in a blue box with a Chrysler and Jeep logo on it. I have noticed a little bump in oil pressure when using these filters compared to a purolator. They are $6 at wal-mart or any auto parts store, anyone else use this filter?

I also get it very very bad. I got some from the vines like pete posted a couple months ago and they are by far the worst Ive ever encountered! Only thing that worked for me was the antibiotics the hospital gave me, the calamine lotion takes the itch away for about 1 an a half seconds. I took cold showers and washed my towel after one use, wore bed pants and a long sleeve shirt to cover it while I slept to keep it from spreading on my sheets. These are all the steps I took to get rid of it as fast as possible. BTW I heard that using bleach is a VERY bad thing to do!

I think your dad is just saying that. Why would you even tell the insurance company you lifted your truck? I still don't even see why lifting your Jeep has anything to do with the insurance. :dunno: I have Nationwide liability on my 93 and 94 XJ with roadside assistance(tow up to 100 miles for free, and yes I have used it and its really free!) for $67 bucks a month. I'm 22 no speeding tickets or accidents.

:agree: Do it all the time actually... I buy and sell cars all the time with hopscotched titles. It helps if you have or can "aquire" a bill of sale in the title owners name. ;) My 94 XJ had a FL title in the original owners name that had been bought at auction by another dealer in Alabama, THEN driven to MD where I bought it, THEN I registered it in PA where I live with a FL title in PO name and a very sketchy used car dealers transfer of ownership paper in someone elses name. :dunno:

You don't have to remove the hub although it can make things easier. I just remove the brake caliper and bracket, then remove the three bolts securing the wheel hub assembly into the spindle and remove the axle shaft/hub as one piece. Then I find it easiest to cut the wheel joint with an air powered cut off tool in two places and remove it in pieces. Then you simply install the new wheel joint, it can only go one way so take your time.

If you already have the replacement bolts then why don't you save yourself the time and just cut them out??

I have been waiting for RE to open so I can buy a new hiem joint for my XJ but now the joint isn't even listed on their site anymore. Wonder why they would remove an item that is still used on the RE1600 TB??

I would be furious if I were the driver. He was kissing the cops a** and yes sir-ing him to death when he never had a chance to tell him about his gun. :dunno:

I bought a gold MJ awhile back and found a family of mice in the bench seat! I think they are still living somewhere around my garage. :fs2:

No its late and I didn't read your sig I thought you had an AW4 automatic for some reason.

Great job! It looks like a completely different truck than when you started. It still amazes me how dirty people let their cars get, it really is kind of disgusting. :ack:

Only thing on the pass side of the AW4 is the NSS switch but if that were not connected it wouldn't start or drive. Maybe someone swapped in a newer TC and the wires could be for the 4wd indicator lights.

Too bad it ended up at the junk yard it looks like a great truck to restore.

Thanks guys.. I saw several people say use the top line but my FSM says the factory is the bottom like hornbrod posted so I was confused. I guess I will use the bottom line seeing as how that makes the most sense for cooling purposes.

I don't see what size that bar is in the ad??? Its most likely too short for 6" and more for around 3". IMO if your lifting 6" then you should get a HD bar with bracket like one from Iron Rock Offroad. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK&Category_Code=XSP

Do you really need to remove the uppers to replace the coils without a spring compressor? I thought you could get away with just removing the lower CAs.

Yes I know all of this but I am simply asking which line is the return? Top or bottom.

Thanks.. I found a ton of write-ups on 97+ XJs but none for the 96 an older so I'm not sure if they use the same line routing.

:huh???: The OP had both uppers off at the same time so he could add coil spacers. So he couldn't remove one at a time and leave suspension parts connected.

I am installing a cooler on my truck and I just wanted to verify which line I should use for the cooler. I think I am supposed to cut the top line going into the radiator and just run the cooler in line. Is this correct or should I use the bottom line?

IMO spring compressors are really dangerous and I would rather remove the CAs then use one.

Good meeting you too! Let me know if you ever want to go wheeling sometime. BTW I spoke to the owner of the MINT black MJ and he wants 15k for it!!