kyleag89

Had this 92 XJ sitting in my driveway for about two weeks torn apart before I cut it up..

The 351w is what most of the trucks I found have in it. I'm not concerned about the gas mileage at all like I said the MJ is the DD.

Thanks for the input guys. The only trucks I'm finding for sale right now are 302s, 351s, and 460s :eek: .. I might just settle for a clean f150 302. It won't be my main driver as the MJ has the DD duty.

So you think 2,500 would be too much for a super clean truck?? I am not worried about gas as it will only be used for work hauling and towing. I have been searching CL for a week and haven't come across anything that sticks out. I really want a Chevy 1500 or 2500 but people around here ask A LOT for them. Talked to this guy here and might consider this: http://westmd.craigslist.org/cto/2874032856.html

A guy down the street from me is selling a 93 Ford Flareside 4x4 auto with the 5.8L and 130K miles. It has a hard bed cover that lifts, brand new cat, and flowmaster muffler. Nice chrome wheels with newer 33" tires. It looks like it was well taken care of. It had small rust holes above the wheel wells but has been fixed and painted, from 5 feet away this truck looks perfect. I don't know much about these trucks so I am looking for any info on them. What to look for etc.. He is asking 3k but would prolly take less.

If the motor is good which I doubt considering the rest of the truck, it would be great for parts! $200??

How much do you usually sell these 97+ XJs for out in Colorado? They don't bring too much money here in MD.

A couple wet plugs sounds like a couple cylinders aren't firing.

I have the Hella H4 housings in the MJ and some Autopal H4s in my XJ. The Hellas were $55 each for the housing :eek: plus bulbs. The Autopals were $48 shipped with a $6 bulb upgrade to 90W off ebay. I can't even tell the difference between the two. So IMHO the autopals are A LOT cheaper and just as good if not better than the Hellas. But if you want to run H4 bulbs you need to upgrade your crappy 16awg stock wiring to at least some 12awg wire if you want to run some 55w-90w bulbs. The HiTemp light sockets, relay, wire, and other misc electrical items will run you about $20.

:rotf: This is exactly why I don't use FB. I have an account but never use it. Last time I was on FB was to like that girl for the smittybuilt bumper someone posted here in the pub. :thumbsup:

Just saw Hornbrods post... The smaller huskys like the ones sold at home improvement stores are cheap and some equip stores carry the cheapo saws also. The saw I bought is not made anymore but is one made in Scandinavia.

I have a Husky 345 I think. Bought it 3 years ago for $300 at a power equip store. It is a great saw and I haven't had any problems with the chain loosening any more than normal stretch. However the oil is a huge issue with this saw. If you are cutting certain types of wood that clog the saw up the very small oiler hole gets plugged within minutes. I have to constantly take the bar off and clean inside for the saw to get the proper oil to the bar. There was also a recall on a lot of huskys around the time I bought it for the oil pump. 1 year after buying the saw I had to take it in for warranty repair.

Did you put the wires back on the correct way? What did the new plugs look like? Were any of the plugs wet with gas when you took them out?

When I just replaced the clutch in my 89 I cracked the bleeder and left the cap off the master. After about 2 min there was a slow drip from the slave line. Then I had a helper pump the clutch pedal 3 times and hold while I cracked the bleeder. Did this three times before I had to add more fluid in the master. Repeated this until no more air came out, about 10-15 times.

When the AW4 in my 89 MJ died I swapped it with an AW4 from a 96 XJ. Direct swap everything was plug n play.

Sounds more like the TPS to me.. This exact thing happened to me when I cleaned my throttle body and didn't adjust the TPS correctly. A simple adjustment might fix it but it could be junk. Scroll down for a basic TPS adjustment http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

Done :typing:

I just really can't understand how I can get so much weight in my MJs!? I have a scrap metal receipt showing 2560lbs in my MJ last week and the bump stops were still not even close to touching the axle. I scrap metal 3 to 4 times a week and have never turned anything in unless it was 1500lbs or more. My MJ is known around this area for being "One of the toughest little trucks".

I can only imagine what he would ask for the whole truck if he wants $75 for a cardboard door panel!! :rotfl2:

Regular 4wd springs and the bump stop is still a good 3 inches from touching the axle tube.. I don't see how you guys have any problems hauling weight as I have owned two MJs and both hauled 1800lbs with no issues. :dunno:

Thats why I grab a handful of fuses every time I go to the pick n pull!

1500lbs for 2 miles and your worried!? I haul up to 2300lbs in my truck 3 times a week over 50 miles with no issues! I am NOT kidding when I say the lightest load I have ever carried in the bed was 1500..

I have never had an issue burping air the way I described to you. Then run it up to temp with the cap off the bottle to burp any remaining air in lines like Jeepco mentioned. If this doesn't work for you then you have other problems in the cooling system.

I can see all the bolts still there foreman.. Looks like someone changed the fluid and used orange RTV to seal it back up. Most likely the gear fluid just ate the RTV away and is leaking. Get your self a new gasket and you should be good to go!