mnkyboy

Got some parts today,picked up an AX15 and the guy threw in the crossmember,front drive shaft,and a sway bar with drop brackets. Now I just need to get the rest of the parts for the AX15 swap.

He said he put in a v8 ZJ sway bar with new bushings 4 months ago. I'm wondering if the ZJ bar is what's making his links too short. Are the ZJ links longer?

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/8338/250ign1wa0.jpg

I've been watching it,my mom lives on the coast. Sounds like they are not expecting it to be very bad.

I've been thinking about going,but its a couple hour drive for me. I've never been to it but from what I hear its a good one.

http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartstores ... _p_26.html This crossmember is 4 link and only $350,they are made by a guy out of Yakima,Wa

I looked at the BDS crossmember it looked pretty good and IIRC it wasn't all that expensive and you could get it seperate. I almost went that route on mine,then I made my DBs instead

Looks like the lowers are 20 1/8" and the uppers are 15 1/4" so the lower arms are a little longer but just a few inches. Most long arms are a foot or more longer then stock but really don't flex all that much more then adj arms and drop brackets. Some long arms don't flex any more the DBs,I wonder how much difference the few inches on the lower arms would make.

Anyone going? http://www.moonshinersjeepclub.com/swap ... apmeet.htm

Ya they are rustys,I posted them up in the pub and had them identified. Typically I don't run rustys parts but I guess they will be ok till I find the time to bend up my tube flairs.

As for making it fit you have to cut the extra braces off your stock control arm mounts making it like an XJ up front,then bolt it on. You probably already know that none of the rear stuff will do you any good

Its not much different from what's under my truck except I paid about 1/3 what they want for it. IMO its a short arm lift for long arm money That crossmember is a set of drop brackets with integrated braces. Compare it to RE or RCs drop brackets they aren't much different.

Just looks like drop brackets that are tied together.

Can't help much since I've never done it on an MJ but I can say I've never seen one that comes out in the off position,if it did thieves would just pop the lock out and drive away.

Option #1

I would get a price on labor,I rebuild transmissions all the time and its not something you do for free.

You could do it and there are shops that specialize in stuff like that but I can't see how it would be worth it on a D30. I would buy another 4.10 d30 before considering repairing yours.

$200 is alot for a slipping AW4, That's what they go for in working order. what's it gonna cost you to get it rebuilt?

The problem isn't so much the shafts,its the 260 u joints. You have to change the shafts too get the better joints,you can either get one piece axles that use 297 joints or track down some 95 YJ CAD axles with 297 joints. 97+ XJs should have the 297s and any XJ with ABS should have them.

that looks nice :thumbsup: ,people don't realize what kind of finish you can get out of single stage,a decent paintjob doesnt have to cost alot.

I bet that looks terrible up close. You cannot brush paint or roll paint on your car and even be in the same ball park with sprayed paint. Here is a fork lift I painted up close,you cannot do this with a brush. here's another one i did both of these trucks were done with cheap single stage from Napa a neighbor liked that paint so much he had me shoot his goldwing

Weird the PO would swap out 4.10s for 3.55s,have you verified that the old axles are 4.10s?

What gears are in it now?

It should all interchange,do you know how to set up gears?

so when i went to HF and bought some cheap tubing wrenches that fit nothing (standard/metric was too loose/tight for any fitting without stripping it), thoes cheap wrenches were no better then me on the other end of them?? :fs1: that wrench set got tossed in the garbage can. :D i partly agree, you can have the nicest welder made, but if you don't know how to use it you will weld like crap, on the other hand sure some people might be able to learn how to weld good with a cheap piece of junk, but why not spend and extra $100 or $200 and get a decent little machine with a proven name that has real adjustments, not high/low. like darren said, you get what you pay for So you bought a set of those too,I heated mine up then forced a nut off the correct size through them so they fit now. So I guess Jims quote holds true,I was better then my wrenches.