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mnkyboy

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Everything posted by mnkyboy

  1. mnkyboy
    The arms connect two points,the shape of the arm makes no difference. they are bent for clearance. Run a straight line from bolt to bolt,thats your arm angle. A lot of how a link suspension functions is based on the placement of the instantaneous center which is where the upper and lower arms converge,this is an imaginary leverage point which the suspension works off of,there is more going on but we have been discussing arm angles. A short arms center is behind the rig where it goes but way too high,a long arms center is at the crossmember mid vehicle,this is too far forward and makes for horrible geometry. On a rig with drop brackets the center is typically behind the tire and close to the rigs CG,much like a true 3 or 4 link set up,down fall is the drop effects CG and roll center. A vehicle with drop brackets can apply more power to the ground then a short arm or even a radius long arm rig without unloading issues or control arm jacking. I'm not the best at explaining vehicle dynamics or suspension geomtry but the info is out there if someone wants to do the research.
  2. mnkyboy
    Drop brackets fix your arm geometry which improves ride,flex,and overall performance of your suspension. For a short arm i prefer both,the brackets to flatten the control arm angles and the adj arms for fine tuning,strength,and depending on the arms the flex joints.
  3. mnkyboy
    I used to run adjustable arms with drop brackets.
  4. mnkyboy
    Look at the mid plate on the transmission,if it's cast iron it's an AX4 or AX5,if it's aluminum it's an AX15. It should have an AX4 or AX5,i have an AX15 behind a 2.5l in my MJ so it is possible but unlikely.
  5. mnkyboy
    Got pics?
  6. mnkyboy
    Late 90s Dodge 2500/3500,not sure specific years. I believe this one is a 98. Basically you unthread the piece in the end of the booster and put in a longer one,most people Just find a longer bolt that threads in,cut the head off and round it off to fit the master cyl. its a 1/4" 28tpi bolt and it needs to be around 7/8" longer. To do this you must have the later dual diaphragm booster. stock master is a 15/16" bore,stock dual diaphram booster has a 1" bore,the 3500 booster is 1 1/4",you can also use a Durango which is 1 1/8". For the stock single diaphragm booster we have been using a master for a Mercury Marquis with rear disc brakes,its 1 1/18" and seems to work pretty well on my brothers MJ with 1ton disc on all 4 corners.
  7. mnkyboy
    Now on to brakes,i have 1 ton Ford dual piston front calipers on the D44 and Chevy 1 ton front calipers on the D60,the stock master isn't going to be adequate. Since i already have a dual diaphragm booster in the truck i decided to go with a Dodge 2500/3500 master cylinder which is nearly bolt on with my later booster. Here is the stock Jeep and Dodge masters side by side,the larger one bolted right on and with some minor tweaking the lines even fit it,i will still need to remove it again and build a spacer for the actuator rod inside the booster but that will be pretty easy.
  8. mnkyboy
    Got the drive shafts in,little by little it's coming together.
  9. mnkyboy
    They are bolted on,there is just enough room behind the tail lights to get a hand up behind the bedside to put on the nuts. If you look close at the pic you can see the heads counter sunk into the corner armor,its a stainless bolt with a tapered phillips head.
  10. mnkyboy
    Yes i made them. i have thought about making a few sets,just need to find some spare time.
  11. mnkyboy
    Here's mine.
  12. mnkyboy
    I don't think they changed till 94,my 89 column hooked right up to my 91 harness.
  13. mnkyboy
    Now to find time to install them.
  14. mnkyboy
    These were $220 for both of them. These were pretty basic,we have some that get up around $350 each but they are pretty much indestructible.
  15. mnkyboy
    Picked these up from the shop yesterday.
  16. mnkyboy
    The frames are only the same as far as the cab support under the door,beyond that the MJ frame starts growing taller and the XJ frame stays about the same. Basically the stiffeners will only fit for the first foot or so.
  17. mnkyboy
  18. mnkyboy
  19. mnkyboy
    Everything i've found shows the maximum torque rating to be about the same,i don't see an advantage to one over the other.
  20. mnkyboy
    If you have the equipment and ability then rattle can should be out of the question,you could shoot equipment paint for far less money and have far better results then you would with a spray can.
  21. mnkyboy
    I had 3.55s and 33s,i told people my AX4 was a 3spd with overdrive as 4th gear was useless,i daily drove it like that for a long time. I later went to 4.88s and 33s,i regained use of 4th gear but still didnt feel like i needed a 5th gear. Haven't driven the new build yet but i think its gonna turn the 37s just fine.
  22. mnkyboy
    We were using the forklift to move the MJ,the forklift was pretty stable even while driving. I wasn't in the truck but i imagine i could have been,I was on the ground keeping watch while my brother was driving the forklift.
  23. mnkyboy
    Gave the MJ some flying lessons.
  24. mnkyboy
    Dropped off the drive shaft at the shop today. Gonna be 38 1/2" front and 40 3/8" rear.
  25. mnkyboy
    They are 14" Fox,they came in on a buggy build at the shop so I'm not sure what springs are on there. Basically i just tossed them on the way i got them and they sat my truck around 7",i still need to tear them down and rebuild them.
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