mnkyboy

Yes i can see now that you know about as much about engines as my 6 year old :nuts:

again thats not net HP a 4.0L HO is considerably more powerful then a 290 4bbl and 4.0Ls do not have blow by issues. its a breather issue in the crankcase ventilation system and easily corrected. my XJ did it and it easily passes a leak down test with flying colors. read this http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=257985 besides even if you never fixed it a 4.0L will outlive any AMC V8 you could put in there

there is a chrysler 8.25 from and XJ in madison WI for $50 on craigslist. regear that and you will be good to go. there is a place in Juda WI that has a D35 with 4.11s for $250

I think your quoting pre 1972 HP numbers. going by SAE HP the 4.0L spanks alot of those engines a 304 2bbl is about 110-120HP, 4.0L 180-190HP just because the 4.0L leaks oil onto the filter it doesnt mean anything is wrong with it,its a problem in the crank case ventilation and a simple fix

I would just go the junkyard and get another D35 from an XJ with a better ratio. all the gear options you listed can be found in 4cyl XJs,i think that would be cheaper then doing gears.

there is usually a metal tag attached to the axle,its held on by one of the diff cover bolts. if not pull the cover and look. if its not stamped on the gears you can count teeth and figure out exactly what you have.

Why are you trying to figure out rear end gears by rpm/mph? why not just look at the axle tag or look at the gears and know for sure. the truck feeling peppy doesnt mean much i had 31s on mine with a 2.5L,4spd, and 3.55 gears and it felt peppy. currently I'm running 33X12.50s and it still has some get up and go. :cheers:

Parts really are not that hard to find for them,they do turn up at junkyards and on craigslist. what you can't get locally you can easily find overseas. i have about a 200+ page XR4ti catalog sitting next to me right now. engine parts are super easy to get as it uses a 2.3L SOHC turbo engine which was used in the t-bird,couger,mustang,and capri. Its basically a pinto engine with forged pistons. here's what it could look like,one is an XR4ti the other is a Sierra

I guess it depends which you like more, i would keep the XR4ti but I'm wierd like that. wiring in an XR4ti isnt that bad to fix, it has seperate engine and chassis wiring so you only need to fix or replace the side thats got a problem. because its basically a Ford Sierra you can still buy a ton of parts for it, check British American Transfer Inc. the web address is http://batinc.net/

I went through this a while back,lucky for me i didnt fill up with the crap. i limped it to a station and filled up with good gas and the issue went away.

here's the SOA brackets. they are more money but the are a simple bolt in. I used them because they came with my lift and i plan to go Dana44 in the future.when i get a 44 all i have to do is open up the holes for the larger axle and bolt it in. at that point i plan to weld the perches,relocate the shock mounts, and remove the bolt in portion. but till then they have been working great

Ive got a mossburg pump its been a very reliable and it was inexpensive. :thumbsup: i wouldnt bother with a P22,it may not stop someone. for your wife i would get at least a .380 auto but a 9mm would be better. my mom carries a Walther P99 and loves it. revolvers are also good for security,super reliable and easy to use.

First i would look at the one thats in your truck,if it has metal tanks i would have a radiator shop check it out and just use it. I would never replace a metal tank radiator for a plastic tank one unless it was unrepairable. If you already have a plastic one then that one would be the same as what you have so its probably a decent deal. Also it would be good to know the core size on the radiator, i don't know about the 4.0L but the 2.5L radiators are not all the same.for example mine has about an 1" core and my brothers has maybe a 1/2" core. i have to cover my radiator in the winter just to keep the engine warm and his barely keeps his engine cool.

Um, that's what Pirates say, not Santa. Besides that, no one should be drinking rum right now, everyone should be drinking this: It only comes around once a year, and its soo good! :agree: anything Widmer is good :cheers: Merry Christmas everyone :banana:

I know weve been through this before on another thread. we have had opposite experiences with them, they were slow to ship my order but other then that everything has been fine. even when i called them they were friendly and helpful. kinda sucks with what happened with your drop brackets,i was thinking of buying the same ones when i read your build. still might if i don't build some long arms or my own drop brackets. looking at their new ebay account it seems they have realized some issue and are working on it. they are like 97% positive now. as far as i can tell aside from a few cases their products are great,even some poeple that left negative feedback had good things to say about the parts they recieved. the problems were usually customer service and slow shipping, i wonder if anyone here has delt with them recently? I bought my stuff a little over a year ago and had no issues.

their website is a little wierd they seem like a pretty small company. they could have a guy making the parts in his garage,ive seen some good stuff come out of peoples garages. I'm not going to not consider a part just because it doesnt look large scale mass produced. I get stuff in the shop all the time from major corporations where things don't line up quite right. I have an RRO 5" lift on my truck right now,its my daily driver ive had the lift on it for over a year. i have yet to have a single incident. everything i got from them was well built and fit correctly.

97-06. Not sure on the Rubi's and unlimiteds though, but all others should be the same. :cheers: I'm guessing you have never been in a smaller production facility. your cookie cutter doesnt exist. I have worked in facilities that build similiar type products,the parts are close but no two are exactly the same we are not talking about a major corporation most of these lift kits are put together in jigs by hand and welded by hand there are going to be minor variances. its not like they have machines and robot welders pumping out 10,000 MJ/XJ control arms every day. Its not uncommon to have a part require a little extra to fit correctly especially non OEM parts. here's a link to RRO's ebay profile http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/rock ... tters_4x4/ , i don't know what happened in the past but they have a pretty good score and alot of positive feed back.

I have alot of this stuff on vinyl :thumbsup:

Ive got a few bucks wrapped up in everything but thats how i pay the bills :cheers:

I provide all my own tools.

I just pulled the senders from the XJ i took the guages from

here's some current pics of my whole setup as of this morning and this mess is my home box

that doesnt look very strong to begin with. here's the RE and RRO both,without knowing about the DOM used i don't see how the RE arms are worth an extra $80. Image Not Found RE $179 Image Not Found RRO $99 You do get what you pay for and sometimes your paying for a name

they look good ,have a lifetime warranty, and the price is good. I imagine they could tell you what they are made from,seems like a good deal :dunno:

here's the info from thier site For more information on our excellent Control arm kits... Read On! Control arms serve the purpose of helping to achieve proper alignment specifications and axle position when a Jeep is lifted. Not really mandatory until you get over 6" of lift, some people still do very much prefer control arms for lifts at or above 3". Every suspension company on the planet offers control arms. So... what sets ours apart from everyone else? Price, engineering, and guarantee. Our control arms have a lifetime guarantee never to bend or dent. If they do, send it back and we will replace the arm for you. As a result of the extremely heavy duty DOM tubing we use on our arms though, this has never and will never happen... ever. Stronger control arms.. you will not find. Similar strength, you may find... but not with a lifetime guarantee. Engineering... note an important design feature on our control arms you don't see on many others. We shape all of our control arms for additional clearance to the mounting pocket on the axle. This corrective angle is a far better design than the straight control arms you find most other places. Straight arms are cheaper to produce for sure which is why the competition keeps them straight. Problem is, they don't pass that savings on to you. So you are paying for cheaply engineered straight control arms, but without the price break. We engineer ours with the contour bend, gusseted reinforcing, and with a still lower price.