schardein

I'm not a Renix expert, but I think my knowledge still applies. The switch is located at the back driver side of the cylinder head. Grounding the wire going to the switch makes the light come on. Your problem seems to indicate the wire is somehow being grounded. Did the wire somehow get pinched during the blower fan swap? Also a quick check to see if the switch just happened to go bad, do a continuity check-- remove the wire lead and check for continuity between the post of the switch and a known ground. If you have continuity, the switch is "on" all the time and needs replaced.

I'll go a step further and say that Silverstars are ink stamped with a "SS" and XtraVsions are ink stamped with "XV". The ink stamp is usually on the top side of the bulb, you have to remove it from the vehicle to see it. They will say "Sylvania Performance" on the glass face. I've got a box full of these from the junkyards for $2-5 a piece.

If you are talking about the knee panel, that's where the factory tweeters went with the factory Jensen system. Not sure if Comanches had them factory, but Cherokees did. There were no factory speakers in the dash other than that. As mentioned, 5.25 in the doors and 4x6 in the rear panels, near the seat belt mechanism.

Similar to my experience with dyna-beads. As I pick up speed I can feel the vibrations go away. No lead weights to fall off or move. The solution for beadlock wheels.

So after looking at several of the grays offered by SEM at my local O'Reilly's paint store, I tried the 15763 "Storm Gray". I brought along a seat vinyl sample and a hockey stick door handle from my 91 XJ. If anything, I think it is a little light. Also, the dash, console, and carpet on my 91 XJ seem to be a much darker gray and there is probably a better match for that shade. My MJ doesn't have a gray interior, but I assume the colors are similar to the XJs. [/url

I use dyna-beads on my CJ7 with 35" tires and beadlock rims. They work.

I popped a brake line on my Silverado a few months ago. Coming up on a T-intersection on a country road, stood on the brakes a little hard, popped a rear and did a 180 before ending up in the opposite lane, facing the other way, at the stop sign. Could have been much, much worse. Luckily I wasn't towing, and there was no other traffic. I don't know what your lines looked like, but mine were rusted from the outside. I even noticed, but thought they would be fine. My takeaway is don't ignore rusted brake lines.

I'm not here to argue for one or the other, but my 2001 Silverado has a closed system. Pretty sure all Chevy/GMC trucks/SUVs 1999+ have them. Not familiar with 89-98...

My truck was a radio delete and it didn't have the front speaker wires, also it didn't have the rubber tunnel between the body and the doors, just plastic plugs in the body and door. I had to add the antenna, wires, and rubber tunnel.

PM'ed

:agree:

I was thinking of looking at different grits of wet/dry sandpaper to match the texture, painting it black (if it wasn't) and gluing it on.

Sold this one a while back.

:thumbsup:

I had one in an 89 XJ wagoneer I used to own and loved it. I have a 1991 242 (23 spline) sitting in the garage with the same plans as you, a 4wd conversion with an AW4. I plan to use a boostwerks shifter as they seem to have great reviews. However, I did recently remove, free up, clean up, lube and re-install the 231 shifter in my XJ, and it made a world of difference, so not sure it's worth the expense for aftermarket. You probably know the 242 uses a different shift bezel, and also a different shift gate (than a 231). So grab that stuff when you get the case. I have some spare 242 shift bezels if you need one (and maybe a gate, have to look...) The later 242s use a different design rear output shaft. My research shows a ZJ 242 interchanges with a XJ 242. Didn't know of a change in 1994.

If your clock works, or can be made to work, you might want to consider keeping it. Some think it is a cool option. If you do remove it, try selling it here or on ebay. For Comanches that did not have a factory clock, there was a plain plastic panel that went there. You can get one at a junkyard out of most any Jeep XJ Cherokee (most didn't have a clock). It can be easily modded for a gauge or switches without cutting up your clock. If you don't have junkyards around try the classifieds on here, or ebay. Or I have some spares, pm me.

Buy a new master cylinder. You will need to bench bleed it, don't skip this (google or you tube bench bleeding a m/c). Then swap it out, top off, then you will need to bleed the brakes. If you haven't done that yet, you may find your bleeder screws are rusted shut. Start treating them now with a rust penetrant like pb blaster or the like. Treat them daily several days before doing the work. If one snaps off you will have to replace that caliper or wheel cylinder. Now would be the time to swap to a dual diaphragm booster from a 96 XJ for better power brakes. Your power brake booster could be damaged from that m/c leak (or maybe not). If you do the swap, the booster must use the matching 96 master cylinder. However this requires some brake line work which may be over your head based on your questions.

Ah, good point on a quality socket & breaker bar vs the 4 way. Another way to prevent rounded lugs on our Jeeps is get rid of the crappy stainless capped oem lugs. But that's a different topic.

Are you looking for just the switch? Or the switch panel also? I have both. The panel is an MJ specific part, unless you happen to find an XJ with factory fog lights but without factory rear defrost.

Wow. Two observations: 1. The flat inner bedside panels. Not to criticize because it looks very well done, but if the side panels could be embossed to match the rear panel it would look more like factory. 2. Late XJ taillights?!

I'm interested on your thoughts on the wrench. Are you suggesting an air impact wrench? I think the four way gives you some feel for if it is giving. A powerful impact wrench may help loosen the nut, but it may snap the stud off too.

As for an onboard air system: https://www.amazon.com/ARB-CKMTA12-Board-Performance-Compressor/dp/B0050DI9YQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480827011&sr=8-1&keywords=ckmta12 I've got this in my CJ7. My CJ7 has been down for over a year for an engine swap so I don't remember the exact numbers, but it fills a 5 gallon air tank to about 125 psi in under 4 minutes. I have the parts on hand for a York OBA, but the performance of this thing ended those plans. There may be better prices out there, I haven't looked around.

Interiors were better, too. Coming from a well running 91, my '89 isn't that bad. The cooling system deserves every bit of hate it gets though. Agreed on the better interiors. I used to have an 89 XJ Wagoneer. I loved that truck. I'm not a Renix fan, but to me it's normal to have to replace a few parts as a vehicle reaches 150k, 200k, or 300k miles. And I'd rather replace a few parts than take on a car payment for a new vehicle.

I'm trying to reference those numbers to the Color Coat spray cans. All the info I see online shows the cans using 5 digit part number.

I've had the same experience. Many trail runs and seeing ARBs with various issues daking mentions. This was my main reason for going with the OX. Once I had my shifter set up right, it's been fail proof.