schardein

An appropriate sized screw, plastic golf tee, or steel nail trimmed so the head is flush with the fitting. I coiled mine up and zip tied it to the wire harness above it.

That hose is part of your heating system. It is supposed to attach to a heater control valve. However, it looks like someone has removed the heater control valve from your truck and replaced the heater hoses with 1997-2001 style hoses. In other words, they deleted it. I've read they can be prone to cracking and leaking. I've never had that problem, but I deleted mine anyway (on my XJ and MJ). However, I also plugged the vacuum hose when I deleted the valve. I'm not sure on what settings of the climate controls sends vacuum to that line, but you potentially have a vacuum leak there, again, depending on how you set your climate controls. Plug that sucker.

HaHa, the gas tank on my 67 CJ5 is under the driver seat. I don't know what engineer thought that was a good idea, but having the fuel fill almost where your left hand naturally rests means I don't even have to get out of the Jeep to fill up. That getting out of the car stuff is for the birds!

I was just thinking, I am driving from MO to Quantico, VA on 26 Feb, and then will return to MO between 4-8 March. I will spend more time on the return trip and plan to pass through Knoxville and Nashville. I have a MJ D35 w/3.07s in the for sale section and could deliver on the way. PM me if interested. I also have 2 MJ headliner boards (bare) and two MJ carpet pieces for the back of the cab (both in tan). I have a few other parts (mostly XJ) but these are the ones I could think of that would be a bear to ship. I know this isn't the for sale section, but I thought this would get more views here, and frankly I'm not interested in selling these parts due to the trouble and cost to box and mail them. But meeting up with somebody reduces the hassle, so...

OK, works for me.

They can be a bear sometimes, especially if they've never been off before. What I usually do is lift the wiper blade from the windshield and then lock it in place with the little tab that can be pulled out at the pivot point of the wiper arm. Like people do to keep their wipers from freezing to their windshields. Then, sometimes they will just lift right off with a little effort. Other times, you have to work them by using the wiper arm for leverage. Be patient and don't bend the wiper arm or locking tab, but wiggle them a little at a time until they start to work loose. If they are really stuck some penetrating fluid (like PB Blaster) might help, if you can direct the spray up into them (easier said than done). As a last resort, I've used a prybar carefully so as not to damage surrounding paint, but be prepared to replace both the arm and wiper transmission assembly if it is that stuck, as it is as likely to break as come loose. If you only have one wiper working, you probably will need to replace the complete wiper transmission assembly. I can't picture one breaking so only one wiper works, and being repairable.

Still in. I plan to pick mine up in person. Just to be clear, we are talking metric ton springs with military wrap, and no lift? I understand new springs may provide lift compared to old original standard springs.

I'm in. Will probably pick them up in person.

Nope

Just to clarify, are you looking for the all caps (like you wrote it), or "Comanche"?

LOL, wow, I've seen some bad wiring in my day, but that's... not good. Sorry dude. Good job on the cluster.

Watching...

Yes mine looks just like that one except its all gold and not silver No, you're referring to the entire distribution block (or proportioning valve, in the case of the XJ). The switch is just the small, plastic thing that screws into the top. If that's what's leaking on yours, that's all you need, and the XJ part is the same as the MJ part. (And I'm 98.37% certain it's also the same on the ZJ Grand Cherokee.) However: Take a look at the two cutaway photos I posted. It occurs to me that you may, in fact, need the entire valve assembly. The plunger switch itself should be isolated from brake fluid by the O-rings on the shuttle valve (that horizontal thingie that slides back and forth in the top of the valve body). If you've got brake fluid coming out the switch body, that's an indication that at least one of the internal O-rings has failed. I don't think the switch is intended to have contact with brake fluid. Entirely correct.

Everyone will have a different opinion, but as a Marine Motor Transport Operator, we are trained to drain the air (and therefore water) from the air system daily after operations are complete. This is on vehicles equipped with air brakes, so safety is paramount. That said, I drain the air on my shop compressor about once a year. Craftsman 5hp/30 gal, 20 years old (bought new), cylinder sleeve, piston and air valves have been replaced once. I plan to buy an upright 60 gal single stage 240v air compressor soon, and plan to add a convenient way to drain it daily.

Is that what your switch looks like? Cause I might have one laying around.

Also, not sure how you are determining the pressure differential switch is bad. The brake light on the dash could be out. It is the same light that should come on when the parking brake is applied, so that is one way to test it. Although if it does not come on when the parking brake is applied that doesn't automatically mean the bulb is bad, it could be a bad switch on the parking brake or a fault somewhere else in the circuit.

The switch on the combination valve (or proportioning valve, or distribution block) is a pressure differential switch. It does not tell you the brake fluid in the master cylinder is "low". It does tell you if a leak has developed somewhere downstream of the valve and you are now operating on either the front or rear brakes ONLY, depending on where the leak/failure is in the system. Also, it may be activated if the master cylinder is EMPTY and only one circuit (front or rear) has enough fluid remaining to operate.

Now that's an old reference, many guys on here weren't even born. I'd keep playing.

Hmm. My Cherokee and my Comanche are my daily drivers/gas savers.

I recently changed over both my MJ and XJ. I used Dayco 87792 and Dayco 88249 (from Rockauto). These are molded hoses that fit perfectly and look great.

A friend of mine has had several knee surgeries because he didn't give it time to heal. Take your time on the recovery.

The electronic speedometer is much harder to roll back than the mechanical speedometer. But when the wood bezel was removed from another vehicle by me, I took the full instrument cluster from the same car. NOW, the truck for sale has the base instrument cluster - not the full gauge cluster. That tells me perhaps only the wood bezel was changed - wood bezel came on the "limited" up market models, not base trucks. I would want to see what is under the seat cover - could be near mint original seats or it could be trashed original seats. The Fey bumper could have been a nice find in a junk yard that was better than the OEM bumper. Many of us have found better looking parts on our trips to the junk yard and simply used the better looking parts. While you are correct that it is much harder to adjust the mileage on the electronic speedos, it can be done.

Looks like a nice low mileage truck. Someone has shown it some love, the woodgrain dash panel would not be factory and was probably junkyard sourced, and it looks to have clear (aftermarket) front turn signal lenses. If they have also kept up on regular preventative maintenance (like oil changes), it might very well be a good buy. An added plus is it's a 91, so it uses Chrysler electronics. Unfortunately it does not have the 4.0 six cylinder motor. While the 4 cyl is a good motor for what it is, my opinion is that is a significant hit on the truck's overall value. The 4.0 is the motor of choice on these rigs.

I've added fog lights to several XJs and one MJ over the years using the factory switch and panel. The plug for the switch and the light bulb socket for the indicator light on the panel will be behind the dash. For the front lighting harness, I have found differences in wiring that made it NOT a plug and play. I don't remember the different years involved, but I did have to move the pins around in a junkyard sourced front harness that included factory fog light wiring, to make it work in my MJ. If you have a basic understanding of vehicle electrical wiring, it wasn't a big deal. You could even get a front light harness from a non originally fog equipped XJ/MJ and remove the pinned wires and re-insert them in your harness and "homebrew" your own setup like Don has shown above.