Megadan

What they have said. Generally you can plate in (patch with sheet metal) sections of the rusted areas. Definitely be prepared to patch a larger area than the hole that you see, and potentially have to replace things that you can't see until the section is cut away.

I agree, check the CPS when the vehicle is hot, it's easy enough to do. If that checks out fine, then check the fuel pressure next. The problem you are having sounds similar to an issue I was having with my 4.0L, and it ended up being fuel system related (Mine was pump related).

See, in my case, I know mine is excessive crankcrase pressure. You should see how badly my engine fails a leakdown test. It's not quite a hurricane out of the oil fill, but it's substantial.

I still get oil in my air filter, but it greatly reduced after doing Cruisers Tip 25. My next step is to make a cheap air/oil seperator using an e-bay catch can with a couple of modifications. I know a big part of it is because of excessive blow by causing increased crankcase pressure (which is why Jeep Driver is asking you to do what he is suggesting). My engine was a little mistreated in years past and while it doesn't burn oil, it lets a lot of combustion and compression gasses get by the rings.

Well, if you decide to do the shackle bushings and cannot locate a suitable rubber replacement, at least make sure the urethane bushing kit is a greasable kit. There are a couple out there, and it will be well worth it to quiet down the sqeaking.

Go with a good quality rubber bushing over Urethane. They won't squeak, will transfer less noise, and provide a more comfortable ride. Generally urethane bushings are better for handling performance, but on a pickup with no rear sway bar and leaf springs, it seems to be a rather silly thing to do. I have billet rear control arms with urethane bushings on the rear of my crown victoria. I had to drill and tap holes for zerk fittings so I could grease them, because they would squeak and drive me nuts after a while. If I had to do it again, I would have preferred a rubber bushing over urethane on a daily driver. Just my 2 cents though. Spend your money however you want to spend it!

You may be surprised how much engine you can fit in your Crown Vic's Trunk. This is a picture of an Isuzu 2.6L 4cyl in mine, and half a transmission case, and a box of misc parts. I also had plenty more room lol.

If you read the product description in the link you provided, it states this in the product details "Color Temperature: 6000K Light Color" Thus, it has nothing to do with how cheap it is. 6000K Is white with a hint of blue in it. It is at the very end of the white color spectrum, before you get into blue. If you want a more traditional yellowish white or pure white, look for a 4000k or 5000k rating respectively.

With the 2wd beam axle it may be ok. I would at least keep the possibility in mind, and definitely verify clearance of the pan while it's early in the build. I'd put the engine in, remove the springs, and lift that axle up until you hit the bump stops and see if it hits. If not, you're ok, if so, rear sump would be a good idea.

The real question is why it doesn't work. Mine doesn't work either, but I do the 4 Low and first gear trick as mentioned above for steeper inclines. I carry a 2 x 4 in my bed to chock the tire, and turn the wheels into the curb. I have new cables, but I am also having problems with my parking brake pedal mechanism and I guess it is a fairly common issue.

I had the same problem when I did mine, it is a dumb design. Just do as suggested above and cut them off, or do what I did by accident, yank on it hard enough to pull the bolt captured inside that rubber free, and just put a wrench on each side lol.

You could make the factory dash work. It would depend on a few things, but speedo is cable driven. tach could be adapted to work with a tach adapter (If you have a factory tach) or you could simply add a universal one. Other gauges would simply need to have senders of the same signal range, or the Jeep sending units adapted to work on the engine, which isn't that hard to do really. Something you may want to consider with that current engine is that it looks like a front sump oil pan in the picture. If it is, you may want to switch to a rear sump pan.

Or, remove the EVAP system entirely, plug the end of the vent tube from the tank, and put a vented gas cap on your system. I would only do this if you don't have emissions inspections and testing in your area. Otherwise, do as suggested above. That hose is a bit of a pain to get off of the hard line, Mine was also cracked and was a source of a vacuum leak when I first got my truck. Made a big difference in how the truck ran.

Oh my god. I originally wanted to swap an alh tdi in manche and give her a little lift. Then I got new influences and an sr20 lol. When/If I get around to that Swap I will document it. It definitely won't be a cheap swap, and from what I understand on a COTY built TDi XJ it requires a 3 inch lift up front because of how the oil pan is shaped (Front diff clearance). I've found a source for low mile engines with accessories and ECU for $2500, but there are other things that would still be needed. Gauges figured out. etc. I think a realistic cost for the swap is going to be at least $6000, and that's done on a budget and probably still on the cheap side of it. On the plus side, an adapter is already made and there are even a couple different options on how to go about it. Anyway, sorry for the thread jack. Back to SR20 awesomeness!

That's why he had that cap off to begin with. I think he is just buttoning it up again.

^That (Bosh) or the Carter P74155, which is what myself and many others are also running. Carter is a great brand. They both cost about the same, The carter is only about 6 bucks cheaper.

That truck around here would sell for $2000-2500 on a guess (without seeing the condition for myself it's a guess though) but as it was said before, it depends on what people are willing to pay. I've had a few guys walk up to me and offer $3500-4000 for mine, but aside from the driver front floor that rusted on the inside, the rest of my truck is more or less rot free.

Why not piece together said 4.6 while you drive this one? Set aside some cash and keep an eye out on craigslist for a good used motor. I've missed my change at a couple of complete running 4.0L's around my area for $170 and $250 respectively. Kinda wish I would have grabbed one.

Looks typical. Drag your finger nail across it. As long as you don't snag on any sharp grooves it's fine.

I'm curious to see this happen as well. I'm a fellow Import wierdo, and even weird among that crowd for my love of Isuzu, and curiosity will get the better of me. What I am most curious to see is how it all fits in there and if hood clearance will be an issue. Vertically from crank centerline, these engines bays are actually quite short. I'm sure it will fit no problems, but I do know that a 2jz in an XJ/MJ requires a little hood clearancing (Yes, I considered that too lol). It's that pesky OHV height on the cylinder head. As far as engine swaps go, it will definitely be unique. If I get my Crown Victoria sold I will be working on a diesel swap of my own, but I plan on doing an Volkswagen ALH TDi (1.9L) with a turbo upgrade, injectors, and tune to get around 200hp and 300lb-ft. Not really going for power, just good econ and near stock 4.0L figures. The upside is, it's a roughly 200lb weight loss over the 4.0L and like your swap will open up lots of engine bay room. Speaking of Crown Vics and your off topic Ford 8.8 Discussion. Crown Victoria Base and LX had the 2.73 diff ratio right up to 2012. My 2005 LX has it. Gotta love granny gears.

If all you are missing is that little corner at the very outer edge of the block where the crank is sitting then you should be fine. It's not in a location to effect the performance of the seal at all. If it were me, I would just clean it up and make sure no metal bits got into bad places and bolt the bearing cap back on and run it. I might toss in some black stuff RTV in the area where that gasket seal is for the cap to make sure oil won't seep out, but it shouldn't affect the running ability of the engine at all. If it bothers you that much, run it and buy a junkyard motor to rebuild on the side.

Yea, I was pretty ecstatic when it fired up and actually ran like it was supposed to. I even screamed "YEAH!" really loudly, and if I had a buddy with me, we would have high fived. I honestly wanted to drive it off a cliff once it started that nonsense. Currently waiting on my drivers floor pan from C2C. That's my next project. Then rhino liner, carpet, and headliner, and maybe some sound proofing and new speakers. Otherwise, I am happy with it.

Is the gauge you are checking the pressure with a liquid filled gauge? I know those things lose accuracy as they get warmer, and usually read lower. This may be giving you a false reading that the fuel pressure is lower than it actually is as it gets warmer. As far as the low pressure. What is your rail pressure when cold, with the regular disconnected from vacuum?

Did you happen to get a picture of the block around the Seal. I am curious to see how bad the damage is, and if there may be a way to repair it. Damage doesn't always warrant replacement. It just depends on where the damage is, and if it will effect anything.

Touching base a year later. I forgot to update this, so I thought I would fill in the blanks. After all of that hair pulling, head scratching, parts swapping, and other such nonsense, I ruled it down to a fuel system issue. Put a pressure gauge on the rail, and I noticed that the pressure was actually jumping all over the place. Ruled out the regulator as the problem and decided it had to be the fuel pump, or something in the tank. So I dropped the tank completely and cleaned it out. I found a strainer for an old fuel pump in it, I can only assume it came off the stock pump when the last guy replaced the OE unit. Everything looked normal, but I decided to bench test the hanger and pump with a bucket of fuel from the tank... Then I discovered the cause.... The rubber line that goes from the fuel pump to the hanger was slipping off the end of the pipe under pressure, and as the pressure dropped it would push back on. For some reason, this pipe on the hanger has no sort of bulge or flare to keep the hose in place, and I guess I didn't gorilla grip the clamp enough to make it stay in place. So, I whipped out my 37.5 Degree flare tool, added a hint of flare to the end of the tube and proceeded to king kong that clamp on. Put it back together, started the truck. Runs better than it ever has. I admit, I felt dumb, but I honestly never would have though of that actual problem. Oh well, here's to free fixes. On the plus side, I have a spare computer and I got rid of the C101 connector. lol