Megadan

The 3800 is still a Metric pattern V6 (same bell pattern). Just a 90 degree V6. How to do AX-15 to a metric V6 - 2.8L T5 bell housing, one Novak adapter http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/engine_to_transmission/ax15/kit_gmax15.htm and obviously one AX-15 transmission. ;)

The biggest reason to open the bleeder is generally to protect an ABS module, as forcing the fluid back can force contaminants into ABS modules. No ABS, then it shouldn't be an issue. I usually open the bleeders to get fresher fluid into the calipers as Hydrogopic brake fluid accumulates water over time through the rubber lines and seals, and can cause corrosion inside the system. That being said, forcing the piston back with the bleeder closed generally will not cause any problems. It may have exacerbated an existing issue within the system, or it is simply a coincidence that something else failed. I would go over the whole system starting with the work you just performed and go backwards.

That's really cool. I keep looking at my truck wanting to do a Baja build... this doesn't help lol

no clue myself, but I am definitely subscribing to this thread. My horn has never worked, and I find myself needing it more than I ever did with my Crown Victoria.

Another semi-bolt in option, but would require more fab work would be a 3800 Series 1-3. They share the same bolt pattern as the 60 degrees, so the transmission side isn't an issue. I think a 3800 Supercharged would be a cool swap to do.

Because the 3.4L is more or less a drop in for the 2.8 that came in his truck.

Why sell it?

I believe he said "both my 2.8 and my 3.4 exhaust manifolds are rusted to $#!& with holes in it". You're right, he did. Doh! :doh: I agree with the S10 manifolds. You could also possibly use 3.4 manifolds from a 3rd Gen Camaro/Firebird.

They may be rusted to ^*^&%, but if they are cast iron and are not cracked or have any holes, just use em.

I'm in Omaha :thumbsup: If you see a rather ugly tan Long bed running around with a big guy behind the wheel, that's me lol

That's actually not a bad idea. They would be handy for smaller storage for things like screw drivers etc. I might try and find some tan door pockets now...

I've been running my Standard Motor Products TPS for over a year now with no problems. What kind of resistance are you getting on the TPS ground? Some of the problems you are describing sounds more like a fuel related issue. Very similar to the problems I was having when the hose from my pump to the hanger was not seated.

Supposedly it's 5000RPM, but my Renix is pretty much pointless revving beyond 4500rpm honestly.

Could be the throwout bearing. Would be kind of odd if you only hear it in one gear though.

I had a Van with that SM465 transmission years ago. That low gear is ridiculous, and somewhat annoying in a passenger vehicle, but I always thought it would be perfect in a heavy truck, especially with a big load or pulling a trailer from a stop. That is a pretty decent Suburban. Looks like it could be a relatively easy restoration if you decide to go that route.

High release point and a lack of grip in a higher gear. Sounds like the clutch to me.

Well this adds to the confusion some, because while I know my fuel gauge reads off about 1/8th of a tank, it is fairly accurate. Pretty sure I have the 16 gal tank, yet it is held up with 3 straps? I know that when I am sitting at about 1/3 a tank and fill up it takes about 10-11 gallons.

Are those Napier flares?

A couple bits of advice/tricks to welding the tubes to the cast housing. If you can, try to pre-heat the metal. Use either a high silica mild steel wire or 312L Stainless wire if you can, they are more forgiving and less prone to cracking when the weld cools and the tube and cast housing retract at different rates. Lastly, and it's harder to do with something so big, is finding a way to control the weld cooling. If you use the first two tips, this one shouldn't matter as much, but just be aware that welding mill steel on to cast can be a bit of a pain in the rear.

Well, there are factors that can throw the numbers off and make it a lot less cut and dry. One big one is that offset is the centerline in relation to the actual lip that the tire bead mounts to (Wheel flange), and backspace measures from the very back edge of the wheel lip to the face of the wheel. This means that it is not quite a direct transaction. an et+18 on a 9.5" wheel width does roughly equate to a 6" backspace. (5.9xx) The math to find backspacing from rim width and offset is as follows: Step 1. Add 1" to the rim width to account for the wheel flanges. Step 2. Divide by 2 to find wheel centerline. Step 3: Convert the offset to inches. Add to centerline measurement if offset is positive, subtract if negative. Thus. 9.5 width +1" = 10.5" 10.5/2 = 5.25" 18mm / 25.4 = .708" 5.25+.708 = 5.958" backspace Hopefully that clears it up a bit.

that's one of the 3 exhaust studs that you are missing. Would definitely cause an exhaust leak if it's not sealing.

New O2, tests perfectly. New injectors. Once it's up to temp, it's rock solid. It's only when it below temp that the idle will stumble a bit, but it has never died.

I'm a big guy (6'5 and 310lbs), and while I don't yet have belly to wheel issues, I would definitely say that I do have wheel proximity issues thanks to my big arms and narrow cabin. I thought about shortening the colummn, but I honestly think a smaller wheel with a shallower offset would definitely help.

My truck still has some idle issues before it's warmed up, which is kind of the exact opposite of yours. Once my engine reaches temp, it holds a strong and solid 600rpm idle. Anything below that, or if I shut it down and it sits for a few minutes, it takes a minute or two to get back to a steady idle. When the idle waivers, it sometimes sounds like it is about to stall out, then it bumps right back up to a good idle. Rather confusing at this point.

An even simpler way from ^ is to simply remember that offset is a value in MM from the centerline of the wheel, with positive being toward the face side, negative toward the back tire mounting surface. Backspace is the distance from the wheel mount surface to the back edge of the wheel. . Since the offset is 0, it is exactly at the centerline of the wheel, thus half the wheel width from the mounting surface to the back edge of the wheel. EDITED