Megadan

60 degrees isn't even 1/4 of a turn. It's actually 1/6th of a turn. If it was good enough for the factory, I fail to see how it will be a problem.

Yea, but did it at least have 75% tread?

Pueblo is a good day drive for me... Hrmmmm To the OP. Even with rust free, you may find that there will still be rust. My 88 Pioneer was a California truck most of it's life, and the last few years here have caused the floors to go bad. easy enough fix. Currently I am checking, correcting, and trying to prevent said vehicle from rusting further.

Wiring gremlins are a common problem. Another big problem child seems to be the fuse block itself. There are a few threads on restoring it, or doing swaps to a newer model block and wiring that would be worth doing. That is my upcoming project now that I am done moving, restoring the block and going over my dash wiring.

I've taken my valve cover off at least 5 times in the last year. Ever since I installed the more expensive fel pro gasket with the metal core and replaced all of my valve cover bolts with new ones My valve cover gasket leaks have stopped. Now I only get a tiny occasional drip from the rear of my engine, where before I got a decent sized spot. You will get it sorted.

Honestly, that price to paint is about right.In my area a mid-high grade quality full repaint with minimal body prep will cost you 4-5k. Concours quality paint job is 7-10k. Maaco quality job 300-700$. Black looks great on MJ. Check out knever3 thread for a great example: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43859-fun-with-the-camera/?do=findComment&comment=446027 I vote for VW R32 Deep Blue Pearl or Honda Desert Sage Green. Keep in mind his price quote was for him doing a majority of the prep work himself and buying materials. I just saw a hot rod at the local car show being displayed by a local shop that did the paint job on it. I inquired how much the paint job cost. $37,000 "retail" Yes, it was a 4 stage uber complicated metallic pearl etc etc yadda yadda. Then I got to thinking, I am looking at $800 in material costs to paint my project car, labor being done by myself and a buddy who is a painter, and I was complaining about how expensive my paint job would cost lol.

it depends on how bad the alignment is off. My camber is sitting at -0.8 Deg right now on each wheel. My wheel bearings are in good shape (no play, no noises). While my ball joints don't have any obvious signs of wear like clunks or other odd noises/driving funny, I would imagine that the most likely original ball joints are worn enough to throw my camber even out by 0.3 degrees (evenly on each side). I plan on replacing them this summer just for my own peace of mind, and to hopefully get my camber back below -0.5. If that doesn't work, I can only imagine my Dana 30 is every so slightly bent.

My offer still stands. I'm fairly sure most of those Cherokee's that I saw are still there, or new ones have taken their place. I plan on going again this Sunday just to scout around for goodies.

This! I usually install a fairly simple relay or interrupt switch on the ignition or fuel pump (or both). Works like a charm, and it will do a far better job of making the thief give up instead of hunting for a theft system. (POS Truck vs. Protected truck)

IMHO, I would convert to an open system. Most likely the radiator on that truck is clogged up ( it is well past 20 years old) and it wouldn't hurt to put a new one in. This way you can do an open conversion and kill two birds with one stone. I am still running a closed system, with a new WP, Rad, and T-stat and I can leave it idle in 90 degree weather with no fan shroud and it stays fairly cool (spikes to 220 then fans kick on and comes back down).

Well, if you are going to spend the money to paint the truck, I would say go with whatever colors you really like. If you like black, do black. If you do white accents, definitely keep them small. I've personally had enough black vehicles in my life that I go for darn near any other colors I can think of. My truck is currently "dark taupe" (Fancy name for a medium tan) with black fender flares and vents. I honestly kind of like how it looks, and I normally don't like brown vehicles.

Honestly, that price to paint is about right.

Aside from my floor pan, which I already have a new pan to weld in, the truck is mostly rust free. At least to the point that I can wire wheel away, treat, and paint over any that is there. What I want to do is try to treat the areas I can't easily see to slow or stop any rust in those areas, or at least inhibit it for longer than normal. My main point of this was to try and see if anybody has any tips, tricks, or methods they have found and used to do something similar.

My lock ring forumula was soaking it a bunch of times with liquid wrench and PB Blaster, then using a BFH and a large ended punch to drive the ring back. Took quite a few good solid hits before it even budged.

Can you change the shipping type off of priority? I shipped a set of 4 SPAX shocks from the UK to my door for $42 via snail mail. It took 2 months to get here, but it was about 6 times cheaper than air mail.

Already found a Cherokee donor! They were relatively popular around here, since I live in a "wild" region of Norway, they were perfect cars for the arctic climate. Comanches though... I understand the headaches of owning an uncommon vehicle. Aside from my Comanche, my project car is a vehicle that there were only 2000 sold in N. America between 1988 and 1989. Of those, maybe 500 are left. You learn how to adapt lol Well I've heard that there's only about 30 comanches left in Norway, and its not very easy to travel long distances here :???: 30 is definitely slim pickings. There are only 2 of my cars that I know of in my state....and I own one. With having Cherokees to get parts from, that will definitely help you. I wish you luck in your project, and I am looking forward to updates of your restoration work. I know I need to do a little to mine.

How many of the guys in those tropical places playing hockey came from Canada... That's the real question.

Already found a Cherokee donor! They were relatively popular around here, since I live in a "wild" region of Norway, they were perfect cars for the arctic climate. Comanches though... I understand the headaches of owning an uncommon vehicle. Aside from my Comanche, my project car is a vehicle that there were only 2000 sold in N. America between 1988 and 1989. Of those, maybe 500 are left. You learn how to adapt lol

Greetings! It looks like you actually ended up with a decent project vehicle. That interior is immaculate! I don't know how expensive it would be, but a lot of donor parts can come from Cherokees (at least doors forward). I do know that the Cherokee was sold overseas, especially in the UK, so that may be a source of parts.

That is also what I did. I even cheaped out and grabbed the wiring from the ZJ I pulled my Bellhousing and TC for my swap, cut, soldered, shrink wrapped, and done. The funny thing was, that actually fixed my reverse lights, which never worked on the BA-10 (I probably had a bad switch). It's a really simple circuit, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

Check the pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge. That would be the best way.

My sarcasm created a sarchasm :D

My setup, depends on shock length, full droop (with wheels and tires) then - 1" that's where I'd weld them. ^That. Let the axle hang on the springs and fully extend the shocks. Then set the mount position so that it is not quite at max extension with the axle at full droop (like his - 1 inch example).

Well, obviously you know nothing... you own one. ;) If i remember right, the turbo on those things didn't really pump out that much pressure or have any different fueling from the non turbo. The extra air from the turbo was mainly to try and clean it up. I still want to do a VW 1.9TDi into my truck eventually...

While I agree that $20k is ridiculous, they are extremely rare. That means they are really worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. That's the odd reality of rare collector vehicles. Seeing as it's not a factory original, that kind of detracts from the value in my eyes, at least in terms of being a collector vehicle.