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Megadan

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Everything posted by Megadan

  1. Megadan
    Thank you again. That should definitely help.
  2. Megadan
    Excellent, thank you!
  3. Megadan
    I know there is a company that sells a set of bars that mount on the roof via clamping to the drip rails. This could be something you could modify to be a rack or basket (or may work as is). I can't remember where I found it for the life of me though. I will search and see if I can find it again.
  4. Megadan
    I was happy with the results of my rattle can job. This is the passenger side of the bed after 3 coats.
  5. Megadan
    I did my whole truck with the Rustoleum touch for about $110 in cans. (2-3 coats). I did however spend $24 on a HVLP primer gun from the parts store, $40 for a can of primer, and probably $200 in sand paper. I did no other body work, which would have added to the cost. In my case I wanted to remove the previous spray paint and fix the surface rust the PO created by sanding to bare metal (don't ask...). I'm happy with the results for now until I get around to actually painting it.
  6. Megadan
    How much lift on those front springs? That is the exact amount of lift I want to end up at with 31's for my truck.
  7. Megadan
    Honestly, what the end result looks like really depends on how much prep work you put into the body before you paint it. Yes, obviously spray paint will never look like a true automotive paint job, but you can get darn close. I rattle canned mine with an outdoor "taupe" (light tan/brown) and it ended up looking decent. You can still tell it was a spray can job, but only when you get up close. That, and I went with a semi-gloss instead of a true flat. If you want your truck to look good and shiny, then go automotive paint. However, spend a lot of time on prep and body work before you do. Otherwise, you might as well just rattle can paint it and call it a day.
  8. Megadan
    From what I understand, it depends on the year of the crank you are using.
  9. Megadan
    Yes. The mount platform on the AX-15 crossmember is lower, and it sits a little further back on the frame of the vehicle. Luckily, the holes are already there for it, but you will need to drill and tap. You may also need to drill two out like I did. I used large nutserts of the same thread type as the factory holes and welded them in place with a bunch of tack welds and ground them flat. A bit overkill given the ones I used had knurled edges, but I wanted to make sure they wouldn't move. I did a BA-10 to AX-15 swap about a year ago. On the up side, I believe you can use an XJ trans crossmember as well. I managed to get my hands on a Comanche one for cheap, but they are a bit harder to find. Do a search on the swap and you can find quite a bit of info on it.
  10. Megadan
    Try to get the crossmember for the AX-15 as well.
  11. Megadan
    Nah, just trolls. They like to make my life worse right when it's least convenient. Like my tail lights shutting off randomly. Jiggle the fuse and they come back on lol
  12. Megadan
    Beautiful truck! You're build inspires me to do more with mine, and your lift and tire combo is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for giving a LWB guy an idea of what his will (hopefully) look like some day. :thumbsup:
  13. Megadan
    My Renix Coil and ICM are mounted to the body on the passenger side of the engine bay directly across from the distributor.
  14. Megadan
    If you used and understood how to use Cruisers tips, you would never have mentioned electrical gremlins. No such thing mate. Oh? I've done ALL of Cruiser's tips. I still have electrical gremlins. ;) Granted, I know where my gremlins lie. It's just a matter of taking the fuse block apart and cleaning it up and resoldering things.
  15. Megadan
    That one isn't bad. Might want to verify it's not the 2.8 V6 though, otherwise it looks like a nice truck for the money. Honestly, the one in Georgia would be worth traveling for. Fly in, drive it back!
  16. Megadan
    I'm wondering if the starter isn't shorting inside the motor. If it's shorting with the body of the starter it could cause many of these symptoms. Definitely go over the electrical system with Cruisers tips. Trust me, you can find a lot of bad, and do a lot of good, following that information/advice.
  17. Megadan
    ^Agreed with #2. Definitely a better built truck, but I would still keep looking. Buying somebody elses "prebuilt" rig can often lead to headaches. Unless they can prove the work was all done by somebody reputable, you may be in for more headaches. At least that one has some good parts on it, but again, you could get a near stock truck cheaper than that, and do your own upgrades and build it how you want. Unless you want somebody else's trail beater that is. In that case, pay close attention to what mods have or have not been done.
  18. Megadan
    Dana 60 rear with a Dana 30 front... Speaks to me of aspirations and budget not coming into line. My opinion = keep looking. You could buy a good condition truck for a third of that, and then build it how you want to.
  19. Megadan
    if you are still looking, give car-part.com a try. You can search by gear ratios, year, trim, etc. I've found 7 8.8's with 4.10's within 20 miles of me on there for $120-250. Most are factory limited slips.
  20. Megadan
    Get a Bosch or Carter pump if you can. That would be my biggest recommendation.
  21. Megadan
    You could always drop the cash on these massive things lol. I would love to run those, but they won't work on the rear thanks to the fuel filler door location. That could be remedied, but I don't feel like doing that much work. http://notchcustoms.com/product/m-max-fender-flares/
  22. Megadan
    Yea, I hear ya! I am currently saving for Hell Creek 3" springs and I have a set of 4" front springs. I currently have a 1" lift shackle out back with 2" spacers up front, It works for now, but I eventually want to fit 33's. Once my tax return gets here I am going to pick up an 8.8 and another Dana 30 (non disconnect) from from the yard , and get them setup for installing in the truck with the gears, diffs, and axles (and probably gussetts on the 30) that I want to run 33's. It might be another year before I finally get around to swapping them in, but I am patient. Plus, I have plenty of other little things to fix on the truck in the meantime.
  23. Megadan
    Stay spring under and spend the money on Hell Creek 4.5" lift leaf springs (Not add a leaf kits). This would allow you to do the axle swap, then do said lift without having to re-do the axle. You can also piece together your front lift in the mean time. If you decide you want a little more than 4.5" of lift, you can toss in a longer shackle to give you up to about an inch more (for most affordable off the shelf options. Don't get obsessed with jacking the truck up super high in the air. A low center of gravity counts for a lot.
  24. Megadan
    I found it easier for myself to use a couple of long extensions, and a u-joint with a torx socket by removing the shifter, lowering the trans down, and swearing a lot. Whenever I tried from underneath I could never quite reach them. To each their own, but the bit about angling the trans down is very helpful.
  25. Megadan
    Gearing is only part of the equation for how fast you can actually go. 4.10's with 25" tires will have a lower top speed in a given gear than 4.10's with 35" tires (by quite a bit). That's where good MPH calculators come in.
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