Megadan

I may have to try it. I noticed a huge difference going from 75-90 to syn10-30. If you say it's smoother than motor oil, it's probably slick indeed! In my opinion it's worth paying the $68 for a gallon of it. Also a lot less notchy when cold. Overall it's just better.

Check 4wheelparts.com. I ordered a set from them for my other vehicle for about $10ish each.

About $6 cheaper. http://www.morris4x4center.com/yukon-axle-bearing-retainer-for-dana-44-rear-rrp-yspret012.html?gclid=CKCUkb6X-8sCFQuPaQodwRIN9g

I ran a Synthetic 10w30 oil in my trans when I first did my AX-15 swap. I hated it. Switched to Redline MT90 (also a synthetic). I will never go back, I don't care if it costs more. So much better. Smoother shifting, cooler transmission (No carpet or heat protection so my trans tunnel tells the truth lol) and a lot less noisy. It's GL4 spec, so it's safe for brass syncros. Worth every penny.

I'm a crazy optimist. I would strip the front panels. Have it media blasted, and then bake it in a powdercoat oven at 400-425 degrees for a few hours to temper the metal. Then go find an XJ and steal EVERYTHING for the front end. Best idea in the world... no. But, I'm nuts. :yes: Hopefully you can find another one if that's what you want. I would say keep the parts off of it in that case.

Drain plug is on the bottom toward the rear of the transmission. Google turned this up, post 5. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ax-5-fill-plug-drain-plugs-where-they-839118/ I would recommend opening the fill plug first before the drain. Not only to make the drain smoother, but to also ensure that you can get the fill plug out before you drain all of the oil from the transmission. That way you know for sure you can get more in there, because sometimes those plugs like to get stuck.

Oh trust me, $350 is a very fair price for that truck. I was just trying to be humorous. For $350, I'd buy that thing in a heart beat.

You don't need to drain it, but it's a good idea to get it down to at least half a tank. Nothing like a fuel shower when you pop that o-ring and hanger loose....(yea, I made that mistake...cuz I'm smert)

$350 is way higher than scrap prices. Checked the going rate of scrap steel? That truck's worth about $20 in scrap. In any case, $350 for a project truck with zero rust is still a bargain. Looking forward to some pics of it.

That is the truck equivalent of a fart can and a wing.

The Video shows his death wobble, which is pretty bad. IMHO, I would replace the track bar as a starting point. They aren't too expensive and pretty easy to install. One way to check it is If you have a buddy that can help you, have him turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the upper and lower mount points for play. If it's the bottom bolt, you should see it move back and forth a little. Sometimes the mount hole ends up out of round and allows play even with it tightened down. Upper mount being a tie rod should be pretty obvious to see. Also check to make sure the track bar bracket mounted to the frame doesn't move at all. I discovered mine was ever so slightly loose and was causing a minor shake at highway speeds. I removed the bolts, thread locked them, and torqued back down, and no more shake.

Take everything that DirtyComanche said, and boil it down into 2 simple questions. How much money are you willing to spend? What are your realistically going to do with the truck? I dream of taking my truck on grand adventures to MOAB and doing things like the Ultimate off-road challenge. The reality is, My truck sees mostly on-road use, and so it is being built to stay as a good on-road vehicle, but with improved off-road capabilities. smaller lift (Low COG build), 33" tires at most. I'm going to build up the 30 a bit and do an 8.8 swap. I may go to an off-road park or camping adventure once or twice a year at most. Axles are actually next on my list, and I have put a lot of thought into it. I had to weigh reality vs. my dreams and came out with what suits that best.

^That. My current T-case is from a 93 ZJ which comes with an electric speed sensor and no Vacuum setup on those either. I have a Posi-Lock installed for the CAD at the moment, and the speedo is simply a matter of swapping over the mechanical drive from the factory T-case into the place of the VSS. They use the same mounting position and more or less drive gear. There are some Variances (short vs long shaft) but it is all pretty well documented. Now I just need to snag a Ford 8.8 and a non CAD Dana 30 when I have some avail funds. Then I just need to install Truetracs into both and my driveline goals will be complete... Just need those funds In a bit of a debate about what gear ratio and tire combo I want to run. My end goal is to do a TDI swap. I could stick with 3.55's and rock 31's and be pretty OK. I would prefer 3.73's or 4.10's, both of which are easy to get in the ford axle. Even harder to find in a D30 around here than my new 242 was.

That sucks that it ended up getting torched. Not only was he a theif, but an A-hole to boot. Hopefully you come out ahead with this. My low tech anti-theft at this point is the fact that my truck is a manual. that eliminates 95% of the population in my area from even being able to drive it. I have a kill switch to the ignition circuit hidden somewhere in my cab as well for good measure.

My elusive unicorn has come home. With the shifter and bezel to match. Tried to clean it up as best as I could. Amazingly all the seals are still good, and it engages both front and rear in 4 full time and part time as well as low. I noticed that 4 low is a bit clunky, and the fluid that came out of this thing was black as tar. I do plan on cracking it open and putting a new chain, fork pads/inserts (maybe a fork if that's the cause of the clunky 4 low) and seals at a minimum. In all, not bad for $130 out the door.

I was mainly talking about the 9.75" full float rear axle with factory lockers. The 80 series in the yard near me has the lockers. I'd love to take the rear axle, but I have no idea what to match it up with up front.

Not really important, but since my 231 T-case is kaput I went to the local yard after work tonight. Discovered the Cherokee with a 231 I was going to take was scraped out, and I got mad. Then I found a 95 XJ with a 242...not mad anymore. Upgrade here I come.

I would avoid the rubber/vinyl flooring personally. They trap moisture underneath and accelerate floor rust worse than carpet.

Mainly front hub/bearing for my 88. I ordered the last one I could get locally, but I wanted to do both at the same time. I'm OK with one as my drivers side is still in good shape, but being as old as the passenger side, its just a matter of time.

I love SKF, but Tinken offered similar quality for less most of the time.

yup, and they're hella expensive. They are, that's why I asked. Good investment though as they are probably the best connectors you can use.

Landcruisers come with some enormous axles from the factory. The only time the front axles get annoying is when you have to work on those front Birfield joints. There is a 93 80 series in my local yard, and the want to buy the front and rear axles is real. Too bad they were all P-drop fronts. I'd have zero shame running S80 axles under my truck.

Are they actually going to cease production of all old bearings, or just not pursue contracts with OEMs in those sectors? If they cease production on old P/Ns of bearings, it will be ugly. That's my concern. Timken, honestly, is the best value for money on quality bearings on the market. They are never super expensive, but high quality. I buy them every chance I can get, and will pay a bit more than the cheap brands because I know better. Losing a reasonably affordable high quality manufacturer annoys and angers me.

I really like those Astro seats. A little bit tall, but I'm a tall dude, so having that head rest covering the glass would be reassuring in case someone hits me from behind. You kind of have build goals similar to mine (eventually). I'm trying to avoid a SOA on mine though and aiming for about 4" front and 3" rear total, some flares or fender trimming and 33's. I like that bed rack and tent combo. I may have to steal your idea :thumbsup:

You're making good progress. Are those Deutsch connectors you used to combine the two together?