ggcnash

It looks like it will be close

Dang double posted

The charcoal cannister isn't in the way on mine. :hmm: Sure you have a 91? Of course[emoji4]

Looks like I will definitely want to relocate the charcoal filter as well looks like mounting horizontal will be tight, it was bugging me had to go pop the hood[emoji16]

Yes, horizontal. The bottom of the filter points toward the rear. Thanks just replaced those orings too! Question for you, do you think this will cause premature leaking with the h.o adapter, or will this be fine till I get tired of it and change it?

So did the 91 come horizontal? If so mine was installed wrong some where along the way it's vertical [emoji52]

Beautiful [emoji108]

I am curious as well. I just run without it. Conversion post in the link in my sig I have 91 this was one of the few things it wasn't prewired for. The harness from the 96 aw4/231 combo had the plug wired for it (the two extra wires in the trans plug) I bought a new indicator switch which is on the tcase plugged it up ran two wires from trans plug under hood to dash and boom works like a charm. I have 91 wiring fsm if needed. If you don't have existing wiring on harness just find indicator switch at tcase and run wires directly to dash.

Love this thing

With the coils you have your probably better off going with GS MT springs they are supposed to be stock (they are not period) I believe that's what jeep driver has on his they will net you around 2" in rear after they settle. I personally like the HC springs better but if you go with they're 3" you will net 4" until they settle to about 3.5" and if you go with they're MT springs you will be stock after they settle. Now saying all that I think our trucks from factory had a 1" to 1.5" rake from factory so you decide what looks good to you. I personally like about a 1/2" max [emoji108]good luck[emoji106]

If you go with 3" HC springs you will have one hell of a rake with 2" springs up front. I'm running 3.5" RE coils with 1/2" spacers in front and still have about a 1/2" rake.

Audi thinking behind the plug is no contamination? Also if your buddy recently purchased the car Audi dealerships are giving the sticks out to replace the plug

Not sure about his exact year but they just recently changed to electronic readout instead of dipstick checking the oil is easy turn key forward do not start car scroll down menu to oil level and it tells you what you wanna know! Now I know it's electronic and lots of people frown on that, but I guess your buddy didn't look over his car very well there is a plug where the dipstick goes you can buy a stick from auto parts store for 10$ but trust me I was skeptical but I checked moms with stick and electronically same reading dead on every time.

Awesome car and you are correct people do drive them in the ground b/c they run forever. My mother just got a new a6 last Christmas she got out of an a4 around the same year as yours except hers had 283k when she traded in for the a6 great cars[emoji106]

For 500$ you can't go wrong for something that runs and drives

You keeping it again?

What I have found through my research this is from a moderator a candlepower forums 1/15: The best-performing 7" LED headlamp is the excellent JW Speaker 8700 Evolution 2, which is available in black or chrome. It is designed and manufactured in the United States, and meets both the US and the UN ("ECE", "European") photometric standards -- though any individual example will have only US or UN markings on it. This lamp is available with built-in front position ("parking") and daytime running light functions, but those variants are harder to find from North American vendors; you may have to contact Speaker directly. The Truck-Lite units, also designed and manufactured in the USA, are objectively very good, but their beam pattern (in the US version) is very "choppy", that is, it has a lot of artifacts: streaks and spots of light in the beam. These can be distracting on the road under some circumstances. The GE and Philips LED units are rebranded Truck-Lites, functionally identical to the Truck-Lite branded product. So far, the rebrands seem to be listed at higher prices than the Truck-Lite branded lamps. There are UN ("European") versions of the Truck-Lite lamp available for left- or for right-hand traffic. These have a much smoother beam pattern than the US lamp, but low beam peak intensity is not as high as with the US lamp. The Peterson headlamp, also American-designed and made, is a good one. Its beam is smoother than that of the Truck-Lite. Low beam peak intensity is not as high as the Truck-Lite, but the Peterson high-intensity zone is wider. Neither way is overall better; they are two companies' choices in how to optimize low beam performance for the driver. This lamp is also sold as the Sylvania Zevo and the KC HiLites lamp. The Quadratec (which they falsely claim to be an "exclusive" of theirs) and the Grote are an offshore import; a rebranded Maxxima that is several significant steps below the three above. From there we continue going downhill with "Nolden" (a German rebrand of a Taiwanese lamp made by a dubious company called Microlight), Dialight (a truly pathetic item in terms of beam performance and formation), Hamsar (ditto), Optronics (ditto) and assorted own-design or knockoff lamps from a myriad of companies in China.

You're in good shape [emoji106]

You gonna love em[emoji108]I have the 3" lift pair on mine they are awesome.

If this thing is under 1k and gets good reviews about durability I will buy the moment it is available! The possibilities are endless I payed close to 500 for a go pro with accessories and this blows that out the water!

Yep just do a search [emoji106]

Yea, my point is by the time I bought a driveshaft 10$ and new joints if I installed them 40-50$, cut down and balanced another 120$ this was cheapest I could find in my area .For a total of 170ish. So that's when I decided to pay 190.32 shipped for a new custom shaft with joints. Just to me your not saving enough or at least I wasn't to go another route. Now what you said about finding an existing Comanche shaft for sale would definitely be the cheapest.

Actually your best bet is go to JY and find a 1310 shaft very common in 90's vehicles and get it cut down. The original 2wd shaft has the rubber inside I personally couldn't find a shop that would touch it. Just remember check with shops in your area about the cost of cutting one down and balancing with new joints, then factor in the cost of the JY cost if you go that route. You might find out that it's just as cheap to call Tom Woods and get a custom shipped to your door with new joints 200$ [emoji106] good luck

I wouldn't either but there are guys on here and on flea bay that have and would[emoji106]

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