bigalpha

I searched around the past few days but must have not used the magic phrase to find the nifty charts.

Thanks for the reply, Jeff. I'm not really in the rust belt, but no telling where this truck came from. Due to all of the oil leaks, there are no rust issues underneath!

The 'T' is on the axle and is the lower end of the flex hose. You run a single line from the front distribution block to the frame in the rear, where the height sensing valve is currently located, and connect that to a new flex hose. (Yes, you can use the existing flex hose -- but it's 20 years old.) The hard line to each wheel cylinder splits off the block where the flex hose bolts onto the axle tube. Gotcha. That makes sense. Is there a reason not to use the existing brake lines that run to the rear, besides them being 20 y/o?

Yes, from the dead. Do these numbers apply to an 88 as well? Not that I would actually try to tow 5k# with it. I have all the requirements except the tranny cooler and D44 (I have D35).

Thanks. I suppose I wasn't clear in the OP. I was planning on removing the emergency bypass line altogether and running only one line to the rear brakes. I'm not very familiar with the set-up in the rear on the MJs and I haven't had a chance to crawl up underneath yet. Does the line from the front distro block run to the height sensing valve, then from there to the wheels? When I run the new line to the rear, will I need to 'T' the line so it runs to the both of the drums? TIA.

I will be swapping out the front PV, BB, MC and pedal assembly from a 99 into my 88. Since there are two lines running from the PV to the rear brakes right now, can I just remove the load sensing assy and install a 'T' joint in its place? So the one brake line outlet from the PV will plumb to the 'T', then to the two drums. Does that sound about right? I understand that this will direct the full braking force for the rears (30-40%) at all times, but I'm not too worried about it at this time; I just need to get her up and running (and braking) again.

Any XJ gate should fit just fine. From the cab forward is basically an XJ.

Sounds bad for your o2 sensor. I bet if you replaced that, your mileage may bump up a little.

I know. The PO told me he messed with it; that's why I need to know the proper adjustment procedures.

That's really good to hear! I feel him on the busted ankle, though. I manage to jack mine up every few months.

What's the proper adjusting procedure and how do you know if it's adjusted properly?

Are the tan bucket seats really that rare? I have some in mine.

It is the front driver side. Luckily, I know someone w/ a parts rig so I'm getting a socket for dirt cheap. After all this time, it took me this long to realize that tab was missing. :fs1:

Update time!! After much troubleshooting and thinking and poking, I FINALLY found the problem. For some strange reason, the metal tab that acts as the ground (the one that's on the side of the bulb socket) rusted completely away; though the rest of the socket is just fine. What do I need to do to replace the bulb socket? It almost looks like the 3 wires slip onto a terminal and that I can just pull them off.

How do you test for voltage drop?

How did you test the grounds? Did you test the ohms between Batt Neg and the ground?

The fuse box in the cab, right?

I swapped my cluster and ended up breaking the speedo cable. I searched but wasn't able to find out how to replace it.

Crazy thing ... I have this EXACT problem. Does your front driver side blinker still work?

I just replaced my Batt Neg cable with one from 5-90 on NAXJA. The connection tests less than 1 ohm from batt neg to block ground. I replaced IACV and TPS, tightened as many manifold bolts as I could and it still idles very poorly. Where does the IACV and TPS ground at?

Any long-term updates?

I thought it was a CCV system, not a PCV system?

The radiator recently went south on me on my way home from work. Not exactly sure what happened, but have a leak that lets out coolant AND trans fluid. I'm thinking it's possible there's an internal leak, too, and the red in the coolant came from the trans fluid. The poop thing is, I JUST replaced all the hoses and t-stat. I'm going tomorrow to pick up a known working (used) radiator and get it installed and get the MJ running again since it's my DD. I also need to do the rear main at some point in life, it leaks something wicked.

I like the "TONKA" license plate.

lol.