bigalpha

It's a Jeepney.

It's easier/faster.

I think they are called "Jeepney".

Sweetness, thanks!

I want to say one was red and one white. Older models. One had column shifter. I believe the fenders were there last time I was there. One had the carb'd engine.

Were you able to find where the other end of that first cable goes to?

Mine is connected. I thought about trying to disco mine but didn't want to break the little black tab that slides over the ball. Also, the metal piece that is the 'L' shape slides up underneather that connecter when you turn the ignition to 'ON'.

Just FYI guys, there are TWO comanches in the yard. Both have beds and numerous parts still on them. I wanted the bumper from one of them but couldn't ever get it off. Just an FYI for those of you who collect them or wanted body panels, etc. If anyone picks them up, I need a bumper :D

Just bringing this back to the top.

Have you had any problems with starting/driving your MJ before you found this cable?

From google: 69 Willys Gladiator 49 Willys truck All the other pictures I saw look nothing like this. The bed in the CL ad is way too long; it definitely looks like a TOYOTA. If you take the cab cover off, you wouldn't think it was a Jeep at all - you'd call it a Toyota.

I had a 97 Subaru OBS and it was an auto and it was a blast to drive. I had a 94 Escort before that and it was a stick; it too was a blast to drive. I decided, though, that the next stick I got was going to have some power behind it. It's just not as fun when you're getting pass by riding lawn mowers.

Hornbrod, thanks for the windshield washer tank idea.

So both of these were an option and not standard on the Pioneer trim level? Too bad that someone liked the truck enough to get these two things, then it fell into disrepair.

Thanks for that. I always assumed the 'Pioneer' package was under the SporTruck. I see now that I am one step below an Elminator. That explains my AC, PS, and bucket seats.

I drove it to work and it didn't die.

Any updates on that AZ speedo cable? Plug and play?

Yea, I thought about doing that but then the speedo would not match the rest of the gauge cluster. I don't think I would like that too well. I gotcha. I didn't realize there were different colored gauges. My 88 and the replacement are both black.

Ok thanks for this. I have a problem where if I see a button labeled "do not push", I push it. So now my pillar lights are broken. Did you push them too hard? I can get you a copy of the page that explains how the pillar lights work if you really need it.

My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first. Hmmm, ok. I'll have to see what mine's got. I think it has something similar. I picked up a set of those kick panel lights. I plugged one in and it worked with the door open. I then closed the door, and the light dimmed, but did not go out. Can this be caused by a bad ground or a bad door switch? The peg on the door switch isn't stuck or anything.

Did you have to splice in the old switch? At the time we did the swap, we had the opportunity to swap over the whole pedal assy but it looked a lot more complicated and time consuming; including updating the wiring.

Yes, exact same length when you use the aluminum spacer on the engine bay/firewall side. Be sure to grab it when you get the Booster. Without it, my pedal would have been a bit higher. While your at it take the pedal braket too. (It is somewhat of a PITA to change the bracket as you have to remove the lower dash panel, disconnect clutch pedal and clutch pedal to brake pedal bracket bolt, gauge cluster (to access the two 15 mm top bolts). (EDIT: Just noticed you have an AW4, no need to deal with that hard to reach clutch pedal bracket bolt) Not hard just time consuming. As you found out, the 97+ rod is way too long. You want a non-ABS booster/master from a '95 or '96 XJ (these are the only two years that are mostly plug and play) I got all the brass fittings and brake lines (2, 20" long 3/16 standard thread lines, part no. PA-320) to do the swap from Advance Auto Parts. Hope that helps! Do you have to swap over the brake pedal assy to keep the pedal from being too high, or can I just install the booster and call it good?

So the pushrod on the booster from the 95 is the same length as the one from your 88? I swapped a 99 booster/MC into the 88 because I needed it back on the road. The rod length is much longer and the pedal is much higher. I'm thinking it will be easier to use a 95 booster than get the pushrods swapped over.

My meter's dial has a position named "buzz.". It beeps when there's continuity between the leads. Verify the bulb filaments are good by testing them first. Hmmm, ok. I'll have to see what mine's got. I think it has something similar.

Continuity ... 0 ohms between the contacts?