bigalpha

Did I completely miss this feature somewhere, or did it not get implemented?

I'm not exactly sure how that roof rack idea works, since I don't have one. Can you explain to a retard?

Nothing, until the bed is full of gravel or mulch and you need access to that tie down.

My MJ only has the metal loops down inside the bed to use as tie-downs. At some point, there were rails on the top of the bed, as evident by the dozens of holes that are there. What have you done in regards to bed rails/tie downs?

Taupe is kind of like this: http://images.google.com/images?q=define%3A%20taupe&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

:dunno: Both?

Did you replace with new, OEM spec? After installation, have you verified that everything actually works? Some t-stats have been known to come defective from the factory. Does your WP spin the right direction? I've had numerous people tell me to run vinegar in the system for a day or two to help dissolve any blockages. Maybe you have some blockages inside the block? Just about everything came from Brent's dealer. I changed the T-stat out 2 or 3 times. WP is the correct one. Never heard of the vinegar thing. Red wine or white :rotfl2: I wouldn't doubt the blockage issue. The engine has over 220,000 with probably a horrible maintence record from the PO's. I gave up on trying to get it to run perfectly. I'll just wait to put a new used engine it. Sorry for the hi-jack OP. I say give the vinegar a try. Whaddya have to lose?

Did you replace with new, OEM spec? After installation, have you verified that everything actually works? Some t-stats have been known to come defective from the factory. Does your WP spin the right direction? I've had numerous people tell me to run vinegar in the system for a day or two to help dissolve any blockages. Maybe you have some blockages inside the block?

Isn't the OEM t-stat a 195F? Toss the 165, install OEM spec. Make sure your electric fan is working. Make sure your clutch fan is in good condition. Make sure the coolant is in good condition. Make sure your closed system is holding pressure.

Have you seen the SUV (Tribeca) that Subaru makes? :ack: Just get the turbo Impreza wagon :D

QFT. It took me about an hour + cussing to get mine swapped out. Of course, if the PO's dad is all about dealer servicing then it's no big deal. I never had to work on mine except for doing that.

I had a 97 Impreza wagon for a few years. It was the coolest car I've ever owned. It went anywhere I pointed it and I never had problems with it. We lugged 4 (large) people and luggage from TN, to AL, to FL and back. I got ~27mpg the whole time. If I had the chance, I'd get another Subie in a heartbeat.

:waving:

Just installed my tailgate thanks to DansgreyMJ. Edit: pics My old tailgate is for sale as well (it's the one sitting propped up against the truck):

Alright, so this is what I've done: Replaced all rear bulbs with new and new front blinker bulbs. The rear blinkers work sometimes; the front blinkers are the same. I could not figure out a rhyme or reason to the rear blinker issue. Reverse lights work, and license plate lights work. The reverse light plug shows ~10.5V. I tested this against the ground on the driver side, and it registered the same V. If this V is too low, let me know. I did not have a chance to really dig into the janky trailer wiring. It looks like hell, to be honest, and there's a lot of electrical tape. I'll need a wiring diagram for the rear end to make sure they wired the harness correctly, and so I can identify all the wires and what they're for. It's easy to get to since I do not have a tailgate. Could bad wiring in the rear cause all the blinker problems? I fixed the janky wiring they had for the e-fan as well. It was tapped into a hot wire that goes to the ballast on the driver side fender. I rewired the fan correctly and the ballast correctly. I did not use e-tape; rather, I used those small wire adapters that crimp onto the wire to ensure a solid connection. Much better. I also pulled out the radio and started messing with THAT janky wiring, but that's for a different thread.

Gotcha. I have been reading how people will do the $50 paint job, and sand between coats to get rid of the orange peel effect. I thought it would be the same as if you used an air gun to paint with. Obviously I was wrong. :roll: Given how much easier using an air gun sounds, I might be borrowing a compressor and buying a spray gun.

Alright, thanks; I'll give it a looksie later. Yeah, it wasn't a very good picture but I'll take some better ones. It was all covered in oil and gunk, too, so I'm sure that didn't help any.

Left = driver or passenger side? Is the ground wire attached to the body? I managed to get all the screws out w/o snapping or breaking any of them, though one of them is stripped.

Alright, I feel kind of like a tard. I never did check the rear lights or wiring; brake, turn, running nor reverse. Each tail light has 3 lights; top, middle, bottom (reverse). What lights do what? The bulbs that were in there are all 2 filament bulbs. There was some weird putty stuff in the sockets too; I had to break the bulb and pry the stem out. When I turn on the headlights, the top 2 lights come on, on each side. However, no blinkers from either side; headlights on or off. Not sure about the reverse lights, though. There is some trailer wiring (or some tangled mess of junk) hanging out by the bumper. It's not in the best of shape. I wonder if there is something wonky going on there that's causing the electricals to be wonky too? I think I took some pics of it. Looks janky so I'm not sure what the PO was doing. If the fan wiring, AC wiring are any indication, he butchered it;

I just realized today that one of the lights is out on the rear, driver side. Wonder if that can be causing any weird lighting issues?

philbert - I noticed that you didn't mention sanding between coats. Is the idea to get a perfect sanding during the prep work, then sand again after the paint has dried? LEAD - That looks pretty good, what rattle can did you use?

Pete - that's awesome!! I suppose for a more scientific test, you could always take the mallet, stick, log, baseball and rock to the fender that's currently on your Jeep. :idea:

Retreads used for Semis are much different than retreads used for vehicles (such as these). I looked into it before, but was unable to find if there was a problem with the TreadWrights. I couldn't find many, if any, instances of blow-outs due to the retreading.

The only thing that came to my mind was ultimate disk/frisbee, which is indeed awesome!!! Or UFC - Ultimate Fighting Champion? :dunno: Yes, very good!!!!! Ultimate frisbee. Watch some videos on YouTube. So much amazingness.

I hear ya. Good things come to those who wait. Usually.