bigalpha

Bummer, it's pretty handy.

Yes and yes!

There are lots of great articles on here about doing the rear main without removing the transmission. Although 87commanche indicated he was able to accomplish the O-ring replacement without draining the oil, I would imagine draining it would be neater, and would be absolutely necessary to do the rear main seal. Most of the articles I have read suggest draining the oil the night before and letting the remaining oil drip out all night, as you will be oily when the oil pan is removed to access the crank caps. Good luck! Yeah, I'd do both at the same time just to simplify the task. Good idea on letting the oil drain overnight.

Those blinkers are only blinkers, right? The running lights are the lights that are on the corners. I know some people have had some weird issues when a lightbulb shorts out and causes some funky things to happen with the circuit and things go wonky. That's why I was asking. How many grounds are in the engine bay? I know there's the one that goes from battery to block, right behind the oil filter. Then, the one that goes to firewall, behind the throttle body. Where else? On my MJ the signal lite (front under h/lite) was also a park/running lite , in addition to "corner" lite which has the same functions including blinker :hmm: What year is yours?

I play Ultimate. It's so amazing; if it were a woman, I'd marry it and make love to it non-stop.

Not sure if it's available for this particular forum software. For those of you who visit NAXJA, you'll notice a "Quick Reply" box at the end of every page of a thread. This way you can just type out a quick response and hit send instead of having to "Post Reply".

I kind of like the chrome; I'm planning on converting my faded black crap over to the chrome goodness.

This is probably a good time to do a rear main too, huh?

You could always find a cheap/free set of rollers and have them installed and run them for a day and see how you like.

Wow, thanks for the tips. Whenever I get around to painting, I'm sure this'll come in handy.

Those blinkers are only blinkers, right? The running lights are the lights that are on the corners. I know some people have had some weird issues when a lightbulb shorts out and causes some funky things to happen with the circuit and things go wonky. That's why I was asking. How many grounds are in the engine bay? I know there's the one that goes from battery to block, right behind the oil filter. Then, the one that goes to firewall, behind the throttle body. Where else?

What about the front blinkers? Will it make anything wonky to have dual filament?

You don't want it to stay too cold. Operating temp for these motors is around 200-210. If it stays too cold, especially if you have a Renix system, it'll kill you mileage. If it runs too cold will it start running in closed loop? That's the only way I can think of to kill MPG. Yes. My mileage in the MJ is about 15, and I'm thinking there is no t-stat.

88, Auto, I6 Breakdown of symptoms: - Left blinker does not work at all. - Right blinker works w/ lights off. - R. blinker blinks at half speed with lights on. - With lights on, the R. blinker indicator stays lit on the dash but the bulb itself does not light up. - Fuses good - New bulbs -- the ones that were recommended are dual filament. If only used for blinking, why do they need two filaments? Other symptoms: - High idle, truck will accelerate on flat land and the transmission with upshift through the gears. - When shift from 'D' to 'P' or 'N', the truck idle will increase a lot. I don't have Tach, so not sure of exact RPMs. - When it downshifts, the trans revs up for just a second then it'll downshift. It seems like it's lagging. - Replaced IACV with new, but made the problem 10x worse. I was doing 45mph w/o using the gas w/ new IACV. - TPS tests within specs. - MAP/MAT test within spec. - No discernible vacuum leaks, though some of the hoses are taped to the elbows and such. - Had serious blow-by issues, but I cleaned out the grommet (new one on the way). - Old IACV was caked in oil, but I cleaned it and put it back in since the new IACV made the issue 10x worse. Are these symptoms related? I imagine a bad ground may be to blame for some of these issues, but I tested the grounds I could find (w/ DMM) and they tested out alright. 1. Where are all the grounds? 2. Do the blinkers need dual filament bulbs? 3. Why the crazy idle/shifting?

In the picture, are those two nipples read to accept the rubber hose to connect to the overflow bottle? I suppose this essentially converts the system to open, right?

Reverse scammer?

Update: I finally fixed the leaking trans line, so now trans fluid doesn't spray everywhere. I'll need to attempt the rear main at some point along with the oil filter adapter o-rings. The A/C works now, though the drain tube is all blocked up and it drains into the cab. I couldn't find the drain hose, so I'll hafta look for it again. My XJ does this too. I unblocked the CCV grommet, so no more oil mist coming out of the intake tube for the valve cover. I also ordered a new one. I got the interior detailed, so now it doesn't smell anymore. New door speakers. Got new rims. Just like THESE. However, it wasn't as easy as getting them mounted. The two rear tires are 215/75 and the two front were 215/60. Went to Sam's and got (2) 215/70 to replace the /60's. Turns out that the /75's are over 10 years old, so they wouldn't remount the tires on the new rims. So, I have the /70's mounted on the new rims on the front, and I hafta go get some tires for the rear and get them mounted. I also had an idea for in-cab lighting. The two b-pillar lights don't work so there's no light on the inside. My MJ also doesn't have the headliner. This leaves a pretty sizable gap between the top of the cab and the lip that the head liner mounts to. I was thinking of getting some low-key LED strips and running them all around the top of the cab (hidden in the lip) and they'd come on when the door opens. Low power consumption, but different. Ideas, thoughts?

Dang, I hope it's not too stripped. Thanks for the advise, I'll give that a shot tomorrow.

Thanks. I just can't seem to get the screwdriver in there and get it unscrewed.

So, I went to pull up the carpet to inspect it but I can't get the kickplate off. I got the bottom one (that "L's" up into the B-pillar) unscrewed. The one I can't get out is the triangular shaped one that is up right under the blower motor. There is a recessed screw I can't get unscrewed ... is it Philips or Flat head?

Neat, that's something I gotta remember. Mine idles funny, but only in P and N. I'm going to replace my IAC, TPS and clean the whole shebang.

That's one of the reasons I wanted the LWB. Since there is no extended cab option, it adds more storage, w/o totally sacrificing the bed space.

I think the LB is cooler lookin'; plus, it has more storage area.

You're basically my hero. :bowdown: