-
Posts
1236 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by knever3
-
That's really cool, a wrangler with storage space. What a novel idea!! Everyone decides not to buy one because they are not as practical who knew!
-
It happend again the other night replying to a post not creating one. Since the post was lengthy everytime I scrolled down to type it just kept taking me up to the original window size. Go figure. :huh???:
-
Maybe I shouldn't have given mine away or thrown away that factory brush guard either. I didn't know they were like gold now.
-
http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/3205538407.html I'm sure you already saw this one. It's been modified so much I wouldn't even consider it as a chief anymore. The '97 front end kills it.
-
:dunno: I tried it today and it worked great. Maybe I don't use the scroll bar inside the text window. Sometimes technology is akin to "Is there gas in it"? :hateputers: Thanks for pointing out the obvious. :doh:
-
I lost a couple of the black A pillar screw covers, if anyone has some factory ones I need two. I don't want to just paint some gray ones. Thanks
-
My 88 highschool budget build
knever3 replied to Jakesjeepmj1988's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Very nice looking truck, love the wheels and the cap. -
I am sure you are aware of the limitations of the small window that you can type in. Why does it get so far down and then it just wiggs out and doesn't show the cursor and you can't see what you are typing? It's very bothersome if you have a large post. I normally have to make a word document then copy and paste into the post window so I can make a long'ish post. Thoughts?
-
If you had a rod knock, what would you do?
knever3 replied to Dedaw's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Sounds like a rod bearing to me too. My old motor developed the exact same noise before I pulled it. It would get louder when you applied the gas ever so slightly. When you accelerated under more of a load the noise would go away. When you slowed down to an idle or just above the noise would come back. I drove it for a couple days and wondered if my torque converter bolts were getting loose and hitting the bell housing. I made sure they were tight and they were. I laid under the truck and it sounded like it was #6 rod bearing at the very back of the motor because it sound like something was hitting the oil pan. I parked it and decided to swap motors and inspect it since I already had the stroker on the engine stand in the garage. The oil from the motor goes from #1 through #6 in that order so if oil starvation ever were to happen it would most likely be #6 since it's at the end of the line. If it was a main bearing it would loose oil pressure. If it were a cam bearing you would hear no noise just loose oil pressure. Main bearing noises are usually a much deeper tone of noise or knock. I'll find out what mine was when I put it on the engine stand and flip it. I drained the oil and found no metallic so who knows. I wouldn't drive it, you can prolong death if you put some additive in the oil to cushin the bearings. Lucus would do it, just use 5.5 quarts of 10-W30 oil and one bottle (1qt) of lucus. I hope this helps, thanks for the video. That really helps!! -
I'm flattered, I get a day in September too!! :banana:
-
The progress this week has been slow since I work 12 hour shifts the next 16 days! I have been putting about 2 hours into the truck every day I wake up. I got the distributor in, throttle body on, and the newer throttle kickdown cable swapped out. I took another distributor I had and heated up the cam drive gear. I used a punch to knock it off the shaft so I could use it to prime the oil system just to make sure there was oil up in the top end of the motor. I have a temporary oil pressure gauge installed and I got a constant 55psi oil pressure when I used my 1/2" cordless drill. Now I have a good feeling everything is oiled up so on the first start I know I will get good oil pressure. On a side note I noticed I needed to replace the O-rings from the filter mount. I tried three auto parts stores and after getting what I thought were the proper ones the one is too thick and it won't go back together. :mad: I guess I will have to wait till Monday to do that. The Hesco TPS adapter worked like a charm.
-
Usually when places like Jasper sell a rebuilt motor they take your long block and give you one already finished. Meaning you get someone else's long block or combination of a good head and block. I had only two experiences with Jasper. One with a trans and one engine. The engine was delivered and I installed it and sent the long block back for a core. We got a credit for the core but who knows what engine we got. If you want to keep YOUR engine take it to a local machine shop and write down the numbers on the parts and take pictures so you get back what you gave them. I have heard a TON of stories about people taking their engine into a shop and they get the same story. After magnafluxing the block it's cracked and junk. So they sell you one of their blocks because they already have ALL of your parts so you are at their mercy. Just thought I'd pass along some info before you get taken like the rest. If you meet the actual person doing the machine work they should be confident and happy to work on your baby.
-
I have no experience with Jasper. It is just that when I mention Jasper to some people I get negative comments. Two mechanics I spoke to recommended Jasper compared with an on-site rebuild. Jasper does have a nationwide warrantee. Before I commit to it, I want to know others' opinions. So far, no one has bashed Jasper. Your experience with 210k on a Jasper is positive. My MJ has only 266k. Two mechanics recommended buy it instead of rebuild it? What's wrong with mechanics these days! :nuts: If your block and head are in good condition any reputable machine shop can ridge ream and hone the cylinder walls, line hone the cam and install new bearings, give the head a valve job and you're off. I would try to go to a machine shop instead of a mechanic shop because they might not do that stuff.
-
I love those trucks, I'll bet they ride like a tank though.
-
I love Novak conversions stuff, just wish they would spell Comanche right! :fs1: Look it up, every page is wrong. Great build! :waving:
-
When I buy a car I think how I am going to service it. Any foreign car will be difficult to purchase or find used parts. Try finding a Honda Pilot in your local junk yard. I really enjoy older Mazda's and a select few foreign cars but the service factor is keeping me away. Sure they typically are more trouble free but when they do break you better whip out your wallet for the dealer or have another car ready for when you have to source parts.
-
At least they will be prepared this time. The Katrina storm really pointed out how confident and naive we are when it comes to natural disasters. The only way the Louisiana could prepare for Katrina was to heed the evacuations, which they didn't. It must be difficult to move away for a while. My take, board up and secure your house so the looters don't steal the kitchen sink and take a road trip to the North out of harms way. I feel so bad for what happened in '05 but truth is they were warned. This time around I think who's left living in those areas will sure up and move out, but who knows this is only a CAT1 storm.
-
I so want to visit there, hopefully next month when we are on vacation!! Thanks for the pics, authough I couldn't look at all of them since I don't want to spoil it!!
-
That's what I thought, thanks for re-assuring my thought process.
-
Would you install an A/C compressor without the lines, (ports taped shut) just to get it running or get a A/C delete pully and bracket? I would like to get my truck running by the 14th of Sept but I don't want to mess with making the A/C complete by then. I figure if I don't plug in the clutch excite wire and pressure switches the clutch won't engage so it won't spin the compressor. Fact or fiction?
-
Metra makes an aftermarket one, I bought it and the stud is not long enough to fit. I don't know anyone that makes one that fits like OEM. The OEM ones are hard to take off and route since they are in two or three pieces but if you find a nice condition one grab it. You pretty much have to take the fender off to remove it. It is taped in multiple places under the glove box so it's next to impossible to remove it intact. Let me know if you find anything otherwise.
-
Sweet! Thanks for the pics!
- 897 replies
-
- dana 44/8.8
- arb lockers
- (and 3 more)
-
Bilstein Shock Part Numbers
knever3 replied to HOrnbrod's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Good to hear some comparison feedback on two great products. Thanks! I still like my BDS shocks but who knows down the road. -
Engine's in. I had a lot of help, my parents came over to help me get the engine put in. Quality time working with Dad, priceless.
