Rockfrog

The stock fittings can be replaced with standard GM fuel fittings, 3/8" inlet and 5/16" return. These are still in use today on GM/Chevy vehicles ... They match the fuel rails perfectly for both Renix and HO rails. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Just the rear section, the front (from the apex forward) is trimmed away. Yeah, forgot about those doodads, easy enough to pull aside, I did have them on my XJ when my pump died though. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well, the brake switch works, as do the brake lights ... I have to can't the switch slightly up or down for it to function though ... Did I grind too much off the booster push rod, or not enough? Well, I'll just make a small bracket to hold the switch at an angle until I find a better way. Thinking about finding an HO brake pedal assembly and using the later style switch. Blower motor is another issue ... Motor works, resistor is fine, looks like I get to pull the dash panels off again ... I'm guessing it's the brown wire on the switch itself. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Meh, both pumps can be reached without removing the fender ... and they just press into the bushing. I couldn't wire both mine in as the upper motor used a different style connector (same deal on my 2000 XJ, not sure why they did that). I've only had the lower pump die on my XJ, since new. But at least they aren't held in like the older pumps (the strainer screws onto the pump - inside the tank). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

If you use an XJ reservoir with two pumps, use a check valve when you tee them together (or just wire them both up). If you tee them but only have one pump wired it will back flush back into the reservoir without a check valve. I just ran into this issue when I added the 97+ fender reservoir to my MJ. It'll barely hit the windshield when this happens. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

When I did my 97+ front clip swap, I re-used the stock front flares. Looks way better IMO. I tried Napier flares on my XJ, they looked good ... but didn't survive our island trails. Shattered the 'unbreakable' first trip out. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Either way the shackle should lean back, not forward like the OP's picture. How much really comes down to preference in the end. More angle means softer ride (due to greater degree of leverage), less means more room for travel (due to more swing), but stand it too tall and it can roll over center and net a bent main leaf. Regardless of axle position (SOA/SUA) the spring will pull the shackle forward under droop. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

This is what it (shackle angle) should look like. This is on my XJ though, but the concept is the same. The rear spring eye should be behind the point of the top shackle bolt, with a roughly 45 degree lay back. This will give the best ride quality and spring travel overall. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Stock 88 flares trimmed on 00 fenders. Ground the stock backing plate studs down and drilled 1/4" holes. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Looks more like some did some frame plating. Looks like the plating was flame cut too slow as well. Looks like stock shackles ... And some form of XJ spring based bastard pack there. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Oh, and I must be getting good at TPS' .... Checked voltages and 4.8V input, .82V output ... No adjustment needed. Score. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Well, time to figure things out again. No brake lights and no blower function. Blower was down before the work started, have a new resistor and will go from there. Not worried about that one until early October. Big concern is the brake lights. Need those. I get continuity through the switch, but no lights. Worked before the booster swap. Hopefully a short week at work (10hr days so may have Friday off), so I can get cracking. In other news, I tested the clutch, I have movement, that was a big concern I can lay to rest now. Stripped a bleeder on the 8.8 (driver rear) so need to sort that out one day. But brakes work. Got a lazy IAC, but otherwise the 2.5L TB is working fine. Time to sort the suspension now. Just stock arms in there now but fixed lowers and adjustable uppers are on the way. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Problem here is there is no oring inside an MJ distribution valve. The proportioning is all handled at the rear LSV in the stock system. The stock "prop valve" is a simple pass through block on an MJ with the standard shuttle to activate the trouble light in the event of an imbalance. The Oring mentioned would be found where the MJ has the secondary rear circuit feed. On an XJ, ZJ, YJ this would be where the metering valve would be found. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I've had to replace 4 horns in the last two years, if the horn is out in the elements, it's the likely issue. I moved mine under the hood on both the MJ (to just in front of stock airbox) and my XJ (has two horns) haven't had an issue since. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Just grab a generic length of 1/4" brake line (pre flared) put on new master, bend into reservoir, fill with fluid and pump the bubbles away. Then install, saves lots of time. Cap clutch when you disconnect it to minimize aire bubbles. Then when it's all together bleed it at the fitting on the master first. Then rebleed at the slave. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I found the build sheet for my 88 inside the passenger door vapor shield. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Oh, and I pulled the 4.0L throttle body, cleaned the 2.5L throttle body and assembled all the required bits. So it's back on the motor again now that we all know it had nothing to do with the initial starting issue. Derr ... Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Either pull one from a JY YJ or TJ motor, pull one from a later HO block, or purchase one from Mopar or online. The Metric thread Oil filter adapter unscrews from the OFA body and can be changed out for the more common 3/4-16 adapter thread nipple. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

That's what had me boggled as well. But, there it is pedal height is the same as with the WJ booster. About 3/16" shy of the clutch.

This was what happened when my stock TPS failed. Exactly like this. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I've seen a few that used after market guages over on NAXJA as well. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

I tried to make my WJ booster fit (2000), in the end I wound up using the 98 ZJ booster and master instead. Fit better. The WJ booster I had would have also required some bending of the lip below (sides) upper firewall lip. I installed the WJ with and without the spacer and felt it was not a good fit, much shorter than the ZJ unit though. Fit the ZJ unit in without the spacer and pedal height was fine, lengths of booster rod matched up as well. Oddly my ZJ booster looks similar to the WJ boosters pictured. My actual WJ booster does not though. Odd, pulled them both myself. Either way I had to replace my stock booster, the diaphragm was leaking or something (huge audible vacuum leak until I pressed the pedal). Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Another trick I like to do, is to take a similar thread bolt and grind a "cleaning notch" into it. Then run that through. Doesn't remove anything but the debris in the threads. Comes in handy when a tap isn't readily available, and I keep them in the toolbox for future use. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Yeah #1 the counter clockwise from there. I blame it on the PO's backwards labeling on the original valve cover (he numbered #6 as #1 at the firewall). That's my story, sticking to it. Runs great now though. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk