Strokermjcomanche

I put one in my WJ . I know it's really not answering your question , but there was more room to be had . You'd probably have to move the the front seats forward . Mine was a Lwb bar

Supposedly the vector drawings are needed for 3d emblems I want to make them as original as possible . I'm not a expert at all on drawings , I was told that normal images have squares instead of having nice clean lines . If not enough demand is wanted then there is no need to proceed lol. Thanks for the help Gogmorgo.

Looking for vector images of the hard to locate "Comanche " , "metric ton" , "turbo diesel " etc badges. To make them be precise enough to resemble oem bages I need the drawings . Right now I'm just feeling out whether or not it's even a worthwhile idea . It would be around 35 a badge to make . What are your thoughts?

I buy everything Rigid . The batteries , motors , chargers , switches , chucks are guaranteed for life . The only thing they don't cover is abuse . They are a bit extra money but I figure I'll never have to buy another so why not .

Looking for a pretty clean mj in or around ohio for a friend . He's willing to pay for the right truck . Needs to be 4.0 4x4. What do you have ? Thanks

How about trimming the console with some weatherstripping to act as a gasket?

4761941 / non abs

Bosch

I did the 95 swap with the non abs master , easy . I bought adapter brake lines and threaded them together so I didn't have to flare the fittings on the lines . Took about an hour to do .

If this falls through , can I be next in line? I'm in northeast ohio . Thanks Bluexj .

Google Plastidip for a better explanation .

You can buy it at Home Depot . It comes in a spray can and doesn't behave like spray paint . It comes in black and it for the lack of my describing skills forms a film over the piece you're spraying .

Have you tried plastidip? Or just get a factory black set . I might have a set for trade , I have to look .

If they lost the results wouldn't of changed , and I'm in ohio !!

Just count the teeth .

Why ? It took me an hour and a half to swap mine out . The bolts should be easy to come out being you just changed it .

You're better off just getting a good front axle and installing it . It'll be cheaper than buying gears and installing them . Then sell the other axle as you said .

I agree , but I have spayed lizard skin sound deadener on my floors and it also is a water barrier . The mass backing is nothing but a sponge if it gets wet .

Sounds to me like the t-case shifter may be tough to move because of rust . One of Mjs was Hard to move the lever until I replaced the lever with a rust free one out of a Tj. Then it was easy as ever to shift . You might get away with shooting some PBblaster on all the shifter linkage points and the shifter itself . I just read it's coming from NY so I can almost be certain the shifter is rusted .

Yes but you and Hornbrod helped me out immensely with the "thing" . It's a one hand washes the other type of deal .

I have a local spring shop 15 minute drive ( emch spring ) I can get the u bolts etc if needed .

Ok I know it's in the garage and I have to dig it out . I can't ship it till Tuesday / Wednesday though.

Thanks !! I appreciate it but no thanks needed . It's what I like about this forum is the fact that people help eachother out .

I have seen where on the torque converter where the front nose goes in the crank it breaks off when beaten on . If it was Hard to come apart , and could not be centered when put back together that would give a vibration .

I have the other end of my old egr pipe that you can use for a plug . And it' should be plugged .