Strokermjcomanche

Thanks RedRocker . I can't do much in the winter time outside on my trucks so I try to occupy my time with things like this . Then when summer comes around it's time to work outside.

I would start with changing the booster / master cylinder with a 95 / 96 cherokee or a 99 + WJ setup . Also I would check and see if your load sensing valve above the rear axle is working and the rod is attached to it . Chances are the booster is the culprit , but it's worth checking / replacing with the newer dual diaphragm booster .

You'll get more response if you move your question to tech . You'll have the two caliper bolts then the axle / hub nut , then the (3) 12 point bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle . You may or may not have a tough time separating the hub from the knuckle if they are rusted together .

You asked for a better/ cheap way . I'm just giving an option like you asked . The flowable windshield sealer is used for that purpose . What do you do if the caulking doesn't work ? Try to dig it out ?

Blackbeast is talking about window urethane . The problem with that ( especially in colder weather / climates ) is that it will not flow into the cracks to seal the leak .

A temporary fix is flowable silicon available at an auto parts store for around 6 bucks a tube . Glass companies have a black flow able sealant that works better . I've never seen it sold anywhere though .

My 86 s-10 blazer has an o2 sensor . You never know what's been changed over the years

My unconverted restored mj I have more than 6500 in . But I'll never sell lol.

Understood . I just looked at the moog k7403 and they do say it is for both camber and caster . Although I understand if you have no issues with camber and new ball joints this wouldn't be a viable option . How much more room do you have for additional shims? Just wondering .

What about the adjustable ball joints ? I believe they adjust both the camber and caster at the same time though .

What condition are you looking for on the emblems ? And what all do you need ? 4x4 emblems? 4.0 emblem ?

I'm working on those . He is doing them in between other school projects , so it's when he gets free time . When I have a finished product I will post in the for sale section . I want to get them done for my buckets as well lol.

Good to hear . Most sites like that don't keep up on their inventory .

Did someone actually have it in stock ? I've run to where they say the have it in stock until you order it , then you are sent an email saying "sorry we do not have this part" .

Sorry to hear about that . That padding is nothing but a sponge . Are there any windshield leaks etc that you see ?

Looks like the xj is paying for its own floor pan .

You can add another horn if you like . There are different tone horns that you can use if you are not happy with your current setup.

Your 88 will be TBI ( throttle body injection) not an old style carb . Afaik I've never heard of anyone putting a ford carb on a 88 2.5

That single wire is for the horn . There should be one on the other side as well . I'm not sure as to wether or not some came with one or two horns from the factory .

That's the "rare" triple metric ton version .

Gogmorgo : thanks for your detailed reply , you clearly know more about imaging than I do . My ultimate goal was to have a local sign / graphics company making the emblems out of 4mm Chrome material suited for outdoors . Or another route would be my neighbor that is currently going to school for 3d printing, although after the emblems were made out of abs plastic they would need to be chromed and would not be cost effective. My neighbor is currently working on making the trim bezels for the tilt mechanism and the xj / mj bucket seats and I would like to see how they are going to turn out. Red rocker : that image may be useful if it's a scale drawing . As of now I don't see enough interest if I'm only going to be making a minimal number of badges . You figure how many diesel mj / xjs are still around let alone needing the turbo badge . The metric and Comanche badges are more abundant but some people could care less if they have them on or don't want to spend the @35 $ on each badge . I'm going to keep an eye on this thread and see if there is more demand in the future .

Lol.

I strongly disagree . He has a wealth of knowledge and will do a lot for anyone on here . You have no idea what you are talking about . And I'm sure many other people will agree .

Much better !!

No . The fuel pump and strainer should go more towards the bottom of the tank. The strainer should be on the other side of the lower ring .