Strokermjcomanche

You can rent the tools to change the cylinder at autozone for free . Pay the full price for the tools , return them and get a full refund . Going off of memory , you need a 21mm socket a torx bit t30? A couple picks or flathead screwdrivers to remove the lock plate retainer . It's about a 45minute job .

Get some good clear epoxy/ glue .

Found a person selling a mj specific visor for best offer that's local to me in Youngstown Oh . Since I have no intention of putting one on my trucks I wanted to see if anyone on here had any interest in it on here. If so let me know what it's worth to you shipped and I can see if he'll sell .

Yep I used the remnants of one of the old trans lines and plumbed it all together . I never did check any trans fluid temp though.

I've got one on the white truck and an NOS modine one on the black truck .

Dorman 918-251 . Trans cooler

To my knowledge the 00 and 01 xj engines are specific to those two years and not compatible with the Tj's or Wj's as the tabs for the motor mounts are in different locations and there is a extra tab for the a/c compressor that is not on the xj4.0's . If it's not the case and the heads are reasonably priced I'd like to put one my stroker I'm building . I do see your logical thinking though.

^^ first thing I'm doing if I win the lottery , hands down .

Both front mj / xj door checks are the same but like Hornbrod said they can be installed backwards. I always have had better luck grabbing the passenger side door checks because they typically get less use and aren't broken.

In that link they are looking for a 2006 4.0 . When the 4.0 block was recasted for the WJ's and TJ's, wasn't the head also? I'm not sure ( but it would be nice ) if the two would even bolt up.

I thought I was the only one that used that saying anymore lol. What's the chance ? Between the silver /gray and the overall condition I've bought less for more.

Are you correcting me or agreeing with me ? Lol

If it were closer I'd buy it in a heartbeat . I have the room and money , but not the time to drive that far to pick it up.

Rubber hoses are still readily available . Unless you have a lift where you need more length / durability the stock hoses will be just fine and run under 20 bucks a peice . Some manufacturers list the front hoses as the same number and require a little modifying to install, although I would recommend buying hoses that list a right and left part numbers .

I used Alexia's picture ^^( thanks Hornbrod ) as a reference point as to where to drill the hole in the firewall .There are no stamps as to where to drill the hole . Besides not having the carpet in , I already had the motor, trans , shifter, dash were all in . As Alexia said be careful not to catch the foam firewall insulation on fire when drilling the hole .

All is good now or was good from the getgo . I bought a new fluke multimeter and I have 14.5 v with everything on ( blower , lights , cooling fan , fog lights ... )I guess the orileys tester is not as accurate as I thought . Thanks for all the help . Now I just need to get the trans to shift like normal !!

I ended up having to drill the hole in my 89mj firewall for the 95 xj cable . I used the entire drivetrain , harness, shifter etc out of the xj . Hope this helps .

If you have a d35, or whatever you have uses the same yoke, I have one if yours is bad .

I'm pretty sure I bought the last known drawtite hitch from uhaul in may of last year . I called back to see if they had another and they told me they no and they wouldn't make me one either . There are people on here that have the measurements to make a hitch if you know someone that has the fab skills .

Yes its the complete 95 xj 4.0 driveline, harness etc . The alt charges but IMO it's not putting out enough volts under load . I'm going to grab a multimeter to confirm today .

It's a brand new optima, but I have a new mopar battery in my other truck I can swap for diagnosing that .

Just did my alternator upgrade today to a 136a Oem part#56027913. Turning the headlights , blower motor or if the cooling fan comes on the voltage still drops considerably around high10s - low11s . If I install the lights I have I'm going to bet that's going to drop the volts even lower and I'm not looking to kill my battery . Can I install a different regulator? Or any other ideas? Thanks I've changed the entire engine harness and PCM , new battery and now a mopar nos alternator since this problem with no improvement . I'm lost and frustrated any help is appreciated .

I've got 3 USED sets that I'll never install on my trucks . Pm me if interested . The rubbers are decent .

That's for the remote fob for power door locks .

Check where the connectors go into the cluster . Sounds like a ground / power issue IMO .