87Warrior

I don't recall my 21st... Not because I was sloshed, but because it was uneventful. I am not a drinker so that may be why it wasn't anything exciting. Seems like that was long, long ago. Actually, college was a blur in general, went by way to fast!

Seems I have failed to update! About a week ago the body shop had the floors completely done along with the 97+ firewall modifications (holes plugged, holes fitted for plugs, and the AC box opening) and 97+ dash support brackets. No pictures :???: I will say it looks factory. He is starting on the rockers and cab corners. I also picked up a used TJ Rubicon rear locker/lsd. It was cheaper than the Detroit I was looking at and only has around 30k miles on it. These will bolt right in a stock Jeep D44 with the exception of drilling a hole for the air supply and notching a bearing for the air line. I also bought an 87 MJ to keep me busy!

To clean the brakes you really need to remove the caliper and scrub. If you have a locked (non CAD) front axle, spray a little lube on the front double cardan joint on the front driveshaft. If you do this and the squeal goes away, it is time for a rebuild. It could also be a ujoint, axle or driveshaft.

Change all of the fluids as mentioned above. I would suggest using a cheap synthetic where ever possible then changing the fluids again in 500 miles. Synthetic oils are hygroscopic meaning they can attract water that may be hiding in a bearing or the like. When you change the fluids after 500 miles, any droplets of water that may not have drained out should come out with the synthetic flush. If the fluids are still milky, repeat the process. Then fill with your favorite fluids. Oh yeah, don't hit deep water holes fast. Where your truck stalled wouldn't have been so bad had you simply driven into the water. If you do plan on continuing to play in water, spend some time water proofing your truck. Breathers, dizzy, electrical plugs, etc.

Got a call today.... Good news: Shirts are done and ready to be picked up. Bad news: I can't make it to pick them up until Monday. Should start shipping next week after I get them sorted.

Garage?!?! It belongs on the mantle! Very nice :yes:

I am guessing no news is good news. Did you find a home yet? My wife and I have been looking at several, but they all fell short. That was until this past weekend. Found a nice place in the country with 15 acres, two car garage, large shop and horse barn. It sits at the top of a hill at the end of a maintained gravel rd, if you keep on the road it ends up looking like a mud bog. We are prepared to put down a reasonable offer, but plan to talk with the well service folks first. A house with no water is more than we want to take on.

I just don't like them, not my style. I certainly wouldn't say they are the worst option for a wheel though. You might be able to save some cash by buying another aluminum wheel and painting it black.

I have been running 1.25" spidertrax spacers on my TJ with Moab wheels for a few years and over 35k miles. I have never had an issue. Granted, u cleaned the studs prior to installation and used the highest grade lov-tite I could find. At every tire rotation I check the torque (if the lug were to move I would remove it and apply new loc-tite). Once a year I do remove the spacers, clean everything up and re install them. I have never had one come loose, but I keep a close eye on them.

:shake: nope and I hope I never have to :ack:

Oh Jim, we all know you are not cut off. You have Jeeps and Horses!

You should not need to adjust camber, as it is technically not adjustable. You probably just need new ball joints. Or your axle is smiling :)

I feel ripped off. 18" on the western edge of KS, but only RAIN here in the east....

Yes, I talked with the printer this morning. He ordered the wrong sizes and quantities of the sport gray long sleeve and is waiting for the new garments to arrive. I express my dissatisfaction with the speediness I was quoted back in October. He indicated he is short staffed and very busy. Unfortunately I don't see these getting shipped before Christmas. This makes me sick and frustrated. I have the shipping lables and packages ready to go! I am pushing for him to be done at the end of the week. I sincerely apologize for the delay good folks of CC. But rest assured, I am pushing for the printer to get done!

I am not going to lie, I loath my company 2010 ranger. It is cramped with a terribly uncomfortable split bench, 4cyl attached to a pathetic 4 speed automatic that finds shifting difficult and the doors are not long enough resulting in a terrible blind spot. I can see why my company buys them. These trucks are deemed to have a 200k mile lifespan. Only a few have been scrapped before then. It also gets 20-25 mpg. It is sad to see it go. I think the US auto manufactures really missed some great opportunities with compact truck. Simply building them with some of the same technology as their big brothers could have yielded something amazing.

The driver side does have holes in it, primarily around the firewall/floorboard seam and one in the back corner.I will also cut the sheet metal of of the donor and do a 'patch' fix. I will media blast the rust on the outside body and coat in POR15 and weld in new metal where I can. This truck will be my DD until the 92 is finished. It will also be a farm truck and my wife's "hey the snow is too deep for my Camry" rig. Yup :ack: I don't know why the prop valves always gets hooked up wrong by folks. The brake system has bigger problems than that though. It is missing a brake pad up front.

Today I had two "DOAH!" moments: 1. Inspected the AX5 transmission in the bed and thought I had discovered it is for an EXTERNAL SLAVE and the clutch kit I bought is for internal. Had a panic attack and thought I needed to find the proper fork assembly, slave, throwout bearing, etc.... :roll: Clearly, there is no provisions for a fork in that housing.... 2. Put the battery on the charger for a couple hours. Radio, lights, etc work. I also could hear the fuel pump cycle and the low-fuel light on the dash illuminated. I wanted to turn it over a couple of times. Clutch in, turn the key.... nothing. Starter is not installed :ack: I spent some time putting my 99XJ donor tires/mismatched wheels on the truck. It now rolls easy and has sufficient clearance to work on the chassis. It was missing 4 lug nuts, stole those from the XJ as well. Anybody have two extra 'turbine' wheels? Pulled the moldy, flimsy, wet headliner, well as the bench and wet carpet. Passenger side isn't bad at all: Driver side isn't as bad as my 92 was: Headliner trying to dry out on top of the internal slave set up:

We spend too much money on Jeep parts. Time to buy a Crown Vic.

Yup. I have seen a 35 snap on the street with 29's and I have also wheeled with guys who have run 33's on the 35 without issue for years.

Bleed just like the brake calipers :D I like to do a gravy bleed first: Fill master and slightly crack the bleeder. Let it sit for an hour making sure to keep the master topped off. Tighten bleeder, pump, bleed air out while applying steady pressure to the pedal. Repeat until you have no air bubbles. A buddy and a vacuum bleeder will make it go fast and painless.

Almost felt like I should have cheered for him when he crawled up the penny edge! :clapping:

I was 17 years old. It was peace of mind for my folks when I was out 'driving' (yeah, not wheeling) my 90 YJ. It was only a few year back when I started to utilize text messaging, and I hardly use it! Now my cell phone is my MJ and TJ FSMs.... Have the .pdf FSMs loaded on my phone and can check stuff on the fly whenever I want/need. Even makes for good reading material when riding out to the in-laws with the wife :rotf:

More goodies arrived: Fel-Pro FS9196 PT-1, full engine gasket kit. I was pricing out the rear main, head gasket, valve cover gasket, timing chain cover and oil pan gaskets and found that the full engine kit was much cheaper! Also ordered the V8 ZJ tie rod and ends. This round I did not go with Moog because I have heard they are the same as TRW. Well, the TRW and Moog part numbers are the same....and so are the parts. I also decided to try some of the cheap stuff Advance sells, DriveWorks. Tie Rod: TRW/Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End: DriveWorks ES3096L Adjusting Sleeve: DriveWorks ES2079S

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1075601 1992 Jeep Comanche Arkansas $2600

Have you tried bleeding the slave? This would be my #1. If you do need a clutch you could go with a kit. I ordered and received a Luk clutch kit from Carolina Clutch for my new 87 2.5. The kit includes: disk, pressure plate, pilot, throwout, slave and alignment tool. Cost was around $160 to my door. It is my understanding that the 2.5 flywheel can be resurfaced (according to the FSM and various forums), unlike the 4.0 flywheel. I plan on replacing the rear main with the flywheel out. Just seems like a good idea since it is not of the same design as a 4.0.