87Warrior

If it's not one thing, it's another :doh: Most of my frustration comes from the rust these poor trucks attract. It's a never ending battle!

As luck would have it, work has been keeping me busy until dark with this nice spring like weather. Not to be deterred from progress on this project, I decided to retrieve the 4.0/AW4/231 combo sitting in storage. Diesel fuel and hydraulics make the process much easier: Image prior to unloading the following day. The ol' 86 did have a good lean going on: Then I pulled the drivetrain out of the project truck: Here are the two most common Comanche drivetrains sitting side-by-side. Once the two were sitting on the garage floor my wife came out to see the progress. Pointing to the 4.0, she asked, 'Will it fit?!?'

A government XJ. Could have a D44 and high idle switch :) At least that is what I have come across around here.

Behind the chebby? I think its a XJ. I followed the roof line and its pretty straight.

LOCATION?!?!? $3K in AZ $6K in MN

If you want pure bolt on, take a look at OROs UTurn.http://www.offroadonly.com/products/new/u-turn/ But really, any OTK set up will not be straight bolt on. The JCR GM one ton set up should only require you to ream the knuckles (drill) for the TRE. Plus you can buy the TRE at any auto part store vs a special order part from Rusty.

I have never run it, but have not heard one good thing about it. If you want to run OTK steering, why not buy your self a 1.5" per foot (7.XX degree) reamer and a GM one ton TRE set up? JCR for a more bolt on application or Ruff Stuff for a more custom application. http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=J&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST-OTK http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Very nice :) Welcome to the club.

Its time for the trucks to get a little love. I have spent the past couple of weeks really combing over the trucks to get a better idea of what I am working with. Here is a quick rundown of what I found after a thorough inspection. Red Under hood wiring harness has a good chunk chewed through Unable to locate most of the 2.5L drive accessories Solid frame with rotted floor Shattered spider gears in Dana 35 Worn out bench seat Rotted cab corners Blue Found a 3' long section of frame missing on the passenger side along with 2 holes in the driver side frame Rotted floors 4.0 would not turn over with breaker bar Dirty, but solid buckets Rotted rockers, cab corners and door The plan: Build the red truck. Swap the good 4.0 wiring harness over and install a good 4.0. Progress: Stripped the interior from the blue truck- Then pulled the red truck to the garage and parked it in its, more permanent than temporary, parking spot- (Since it is still winter, my wife demanded that her car still gets a spot in the garage. My poor TJ is now parked under the back deck!) Next up: Pull both drivetrains and start the 4.0 swap!

This was my thought as well. Thanks Don! The images where clear as day :) I immediately noticed a difference in the bulkhead connector assembly, in comparison to my '92, when I started pulling the first one apart.

Welcome! Nice ride. :yes: Not a darn thing wrong with a 2.5 :thumbsup:

Thanks Don. Check your PMs :)

Yes, the firewall bulkhead is the plug I am referencing. I must have a defunct digital version of the FSM as those pages are not in there.

I am striving to get one of my 91's driving. Follow the link in my signature for more information. One is a 2.5L HO (with engine harness chewed through) and the other is a 4.0L HO (3' section of frame rotted away, on one side). My goal is to build one running truck with a 4.0L HO. Both trucks are HO and have the Chrysler fuel injection system. My question is, will the 4.0L HO engine bay wiring harness mate up to the 2.5L HO dash harness? The plugs at the firewall are the same shape/size, but I am unable to find plug pin outs for the harnesses in the FSM to confirm. I do realize the 2.5 tach might not work correctly with the 4.0. I am trying to see if I can avoid swapping the dash/dash harness in the 2.5L truck that will hopefully be running a 4.0 soon. Thanks!

Good looking MJ! And beware, several of us have bought an MJ to use as a DD while the trail rig is down..... More times than not the MJ project takes the spot light and we get up DDing the trail rig until we buy another MJ, usually a 4cyl. Have fun with it!

How comfortable is the JK rear seat as a driver seat? Been thinking about using one in my build.

OP, once you have left this fine club it should be noted that we will gladly welcome you back should you ever have that desire. The good folks in the CC family don't burn any bridges and just want to share the MJ love. Correy is one of the few CC members I have met and was a genuinely nice person.

Being such a signature move, its hard to believe the first hood slide was the result of John slipping and accidentally sliding across the General's hood.

Sweet. My browsing experience has greatly improved! :thumbsup:

I may have missed it, but I am curious to know what you are doing for steering. Are you using the stock Ford stuff, going with Chevy links or doing a high steer?

Adjust the toe via the tie rod. ....then Adjust steering wheel center via draglink.

Glad to see it slowly becoming a reality. Sad to see the +$42k price point.

Is there any way to automatically resize signature graphics if they are over a certain size? I have been scrolling through a number of topics where some of the posters have an image in their signature that is so large it appears to be part of the discussion. I imagine this would also allow pages to load faster for those of us without the newest/fastest internet connection. Just an idea to streamline how threads read.

It just aint gonna happen. Heck, the hard parts for lift like that will eat up the entire budget. I have been slowly preparing a set of 60's to go under an MJ. I have already passed the $1K mark with my investment in axles: buying the axles, setting up the rear for disc brakes and new bearings/seals/wheel studs for the rear. I haven't even touched the front 60 or bought rear spring plates or front link brackets. Shhhhh, don't tell my wife! :dunno: If you want to run 15" wheels on a front 60, you will need to find a Ford Kingpin D60 then do a front Chevy disc brake swap.