87Warrior

Agreed! Pictures sell vehicles online. Pictures can also help folks like us better understand what it is you have instead of basing an opinion off of a short list to provide an opinion of the trucks value. My biggest concern regarding the value are these two points: I read this as the interior is put back together and in good shape, but will need pulled again because the floor repair wasn't finished in one spot. You should keep the MJ and be proud of your work. Nobody besides you knows exactly how much work went into the truck. It sounds like an awesome daily driver!

Based on the info provided, $1K to somebody who likes MJ's. My reasoning: - Incomplete rust repair - Inoperable gauges - No mention of how rust was repaired - No mention of paint - 2.5L 2wd - Bad windshield - Monstaliner was used (I really dislike that stuff's texture)

If you are thinking spacers, I assume you are also thinking budget. You really shouldn't try to go budget at 3" of lift or more. I opted to try out the AutoZone budget lift on my 86 with 235 (30") tires to get a little more belly clearance. - 2" pucks - YJ or Chevy 1500 front brake lines - Rear Chevy drop shackles Before After I am still running stock replacement shocks and know they are a little short, but I wanted to see what I could do on a tight budget. I probably push this truck more than most folks here do with their truck (similarly built) when wheeling. I also remove the swaybar vs using disconnects (6 bolts and it is out). I have found I really enjoy taking this truck wheeling. So much, in fact, I didn't take my well built TJ Rubi to the ORV park at all last year.

Ah, I guess I was a little slow. The bed nuts are 10-1.5, just like the rear bumper nuts and crossmember nuts. Us rust belt owners get real familiar with the bolt and tap sizes on these trucks. Image Not Found

Have you checked out the registry here? It consists of a collection of VIN#'s separated by manufacture year with some general info about each truck.

Dang, that is cool! Not sure $25k cool, but cool nonetheless. Somebody spent a lot of time on that tug.

Shoot, the treasure is probably frozen in the what was once mud.

The only 'wiring' that will be required for the 97+ swap is adapting the the bed harness (fuel pump/tail lights) to the XJ cab harness. There are several ways to go about it, but I think Alexia did a clean job. You could plan to use the donor XJ as a source for floor patch panels. However, you will probably find the donor has rust issues as well. The XJ floor will be nearly a direct fit for the front 1/2 of the cab.

Have you seen the thread in the DIY? http://comancheclub.com/topic/30671-97-swap-how-to/ Provides a very good base to start your thought process,

Updates? I have been trumped by a bearing. A bearing has prevented me from finishing the motor assembly. The fan bearing is toast and is part of the AC bracket and not available separately from Mopar. This is just a water pump style bearing and should be easy to find. Went to the local Motion Industries facility with the bearing and another part # found online. The fellow behind the counter came up empty and even called NSK who said the bearing isn't available. I am still looking for an alternative $15 bearing vs replacing the whole bracket for $125+. I have also rebuilt the heater box with a new heater core, evaporator and foam seals.

Nice quick, clean, mod you did. Thanks for sharing!

Central KS doesn't get a lot of snow, just the fun stuff: ICE. A few flurries have started to fall this evening, but nothing to get excited about :dunno:

I have no complaints about snow. I love it! The funny part of it is that the radiator arrived sometime after 7pm last night and the only 'weather' we have had this whole time was cold temperatures. FedEx must have been working overtime to get packages delivered. Started the install this morning just as the freezing drizzle set in and finished up a couple hours later. Image Not Found The wife is happy she gets to drive her WK to work Monday AM in the ice.

I am sorry to see you go. You have certainly been an asset to the site and have helped many folks' restore their faith in an old Jeep. Although, I do understand your decision.

Under the advisement of my body shop guy, I bought a replacement rocker panel from autopartsnetwork. Their rocker (which was a Sherman) had a much better fit than the C2C it replaced. You can find more detail about that in my 92 build. I did have the body shop use C2C floor pans in the 92 (prior to discovering the raybuck). He indicated the fit was terrible and required a lot of work but the metal was quality. The C2C pans seem like they are built with a sheet metal brake vs a stamped piece like so many others.

It seems mother nature likes to throw a wrench in my wrenching plans. I left work early today to pull the leaking radiator out of my wife's WK as the replacement was scheduled to arrive today. You know, I wanted to minimize down time. I made it this far: Image Not Found Then I come inside to defrost and check the FedEx tracking information....that dang radiator should be here by now! IMPORTANT! A winter storm is causing delays and disruptions across the U.S. Learn More FedEx ® Tracking Heck, now I am stuck and FedEx doesn't know when my shipment will arrive.

That fixmyrust panel looks identical to the Raybuck pan I purchased for my 91. Although I haven't got it 100% buttoned up, it went in very nice. Avoid the C2C stuff. It has a terrible fit, but is made of good metal. You will see a lot of companies list MJ floor pans for sale. Just beware that they are actually XJ floor pans and will require a bit of massaging once you reach the first cab brace.

I will be following this build closely. You are building a street truck the way I would like to. Very cool!

Exhaust manifold replacement will start right after I figure out how to pull and replace the radiator in my wife's WK :hmm:

Is it possible to test the blend door motor function out of the Jeep? I just went through the heater box for my truck and noticed a tighter fit with the replacement heater core as well. When fitting the heater box 1/2's together I did have to push on the blend door to get everything lined up. I would like to see if the blend door will work while it is in the house vs. pulling it back out later. Congrats on the first drive :wrench:

It was 70 yesterday!!!

Took her out tonight and had success @ 20 degrees. Started the truck after sitting for 24 hours and hit the road expecting a stutter/miss, but it did not hesitate. Maybe I have this issue resolved. I won't get my hopes up until I have a solid week of positive results. I am also curious to see how the Renix system responds to the HO MAT in the long run. I guess some reading from the MAT is better than the nothing it was getting before. Thanks to everybody for their help to this point!

Congrats! But really, only a year? You got off easy!

Don - That would be the sensor. The eBay sellers price is on target with the going rate for a 2.5 Renix CTS. :nuts: I did come across that troubleshooting thread, was a good read. Waiting to see the final result. I did clean the MAT with carb cleaner and Qtip. A lot of black gunk came out. After the cleaning I could not get it provide any resistance. No worries on me jumping into the manifold replacement :wrench: I tried something like this tonight. Stole the IAT sensor off a non running 4.0HO, cleaned it, then cut a pigtail off of a junk engine harness. Spliced the 4.0HO pigtail to the 2.5 Renix MAT plug. The pigtail ohm'ed to 1600 at 70 degrees. The truck idles a touch smoother with the new set up. I noticed the truck idled the same as always with either MAT disconnected. Tomorrow I will know if any of this has done any good with a forcasted high of 30 degrees.

Houston, we have a problem. The MAT sensor will not ohm out, at all. If I 'jump' the contacts in the tip of the sensor the ohm meter responds. I tried to see if I could get a reading by applying heat with a heat gun, no go. I also put the MAT in the freezer for 1/2 hr, no go. I have scoured all parts stores and can not find a MAT/IAT listing for the 86 2.5 Renix.