87Warrior

As much as I love this country, I just have to laugh when I read that... because I know its true.

I am no expert, so I do not wish to argue this with an Amsoil guy ;) I based my selection after listening to people much smarter than myself explain oils. Seems every online Jeep forum has a few oil nuts. But in referance to your question the following is an expert of an automotive engineer's oil explanation: As mentioned above, the ZDDP found in most oils that are intended to protect the flat tappet cams can also harm the catalytic converters in our modern engines, assuming it burns some oil. It is my understanding that the API-SG/SJ oils were causing many flat tappet cam failures in the 80s because the engines were being reworked, running hotter, and smog was thrown in. API-SL oil came out and contained the ZDDP because it was a way to make a cheaper oil suitable for the newer engine demands. That is what is still around today for the most part. I would love to learn from you as well. What makes the Castrol Syntec not up to the job for protecting the camshaft? Any information you have stating what specifications the Castrol fails to meet would help me out. As well as any documentation stating what oils you recomend that MEET or EXCEED certain specifications, none of that "for use where "insert specification" is recommended" that are suitable for our modern, flat tappet engines. Are the Jeep 4.0's the last of the flat tappets?

I can knock one out of my rusted bed for you. It is red. I already have a replacement bed with the plugs! PM me if interested.

I have run synthetic in my TJ 4.0 80,000 miles. The first few oil changers were with regular dino oil because it was a fresh rebuild. I have not had a drop of oil come from my motor. I have been using Castrol Syntec 10w-30 because it is readily available and meets AECA A1/A5. A3 is best but, the others are better than an oil not meeting the AECA specification. Good for the old school flat tappet cam in the 4.0. Now I bought my MJ with 185K miles on the clock, naturally it has a leaking rear main and valve cover gasket. I have been running the same Castrol Syntec 10w-30 in my high mileage MJ as in my TJ. Replaced the valve cover gasket and it does not leak any more out of the RMS than when I bought it. I had the same result switching to synthetic in a 90 YJ with the 4.2 @ 100K miles on it. Pilotblake, you could try a high mileage synthetic in the WJ. They are typically thicker and will stick to the valvetrain components better. This should keep good lube up there thus reducing/eliminating the tick. Maybe try finding some oil that is AECA A1/5 or A3 to see if it helps the grands V8. I am sure they are no designed just like the 4.0, or have their inherent issues, but might be worth a try the next couple of oil changes.

What sort of media did you use to blast the frame? This is the next step for my truck.

Wow, quick work right there :clapping: Let us know how you tackle the rear brake lines, I am wanting to do the same.

The Sapulpa auctions are in OK, KS, and MO. You do not need to be a dealer for KS or OK. I am planning on registering to find an XJ for the drive line, etc fro my truck. I have seen one CRD Grand posted there, no idea how much it went for. https://www.sapulpapool.com/new/default.asp Isn't 9/91 September '91? If so, our trucks are birth brothers.

Nice diff covers guys! I foresee an issue with the drain directly on the bottom of the axle. Drag that thing over rocks you could rip the drain out or burger the edges of the drain hole so the plug can't come out. My TJ Rubicon has a drain plug on both axles and I can honestly say I have never used it. Pulling the cover and replacing the RTV is cheap insurance for an inspection and thorough cleaning. This is the placement of the D44 drain on TJ's and JK's:

Wow, they tacked on an extra $1,000 since I last looked at that kit for a YJ. I also recall several 4.2 guys splicing the XJ wiring harness into their existing set up to get the fuel injection.

First off, thank you for your service :thumbsup: I hope you the best and that you have a speedy recovery. Good luck in searching for a new Jeep. No WJ to trade you, but I would have to agree that they are nice vehicles!

Certainly did not find any build sheet under my carpet. Door sticker VIN matches the dash so I can assume it is the original door. September '91 for me.

That was insane! Having seen several cloud to ground twisters and helped with the Greensburg, KS clean up, I can say I never gave trains a second thought. Back when the Greenburg twister ripped through the town, there were pictures taken by a trucker that had slept in his sleeper through the ordeal. He was delivering a John Deere combine to the dealership and kept it strapped to his trailer over night. Somehow the truck, trailer, and combine stayed upright even though much of the loose machinery was flipped or flopped. Wish I could find those images :(

Hey now, I resemble that comment ;) My 92 was a CL find that I paid waaaaaaayyyyyy too much for. Never tried to find the build date. Will do that tomorrow... when it is light and not cold outside :ack:

Get the high dollar gasket and you won't be doing the job again in 3 months.

I would suggest having your head inspected by a local machine shop/engine builder. Although the '95 model year heads are known to be very reliable, I would still make sure it will sit flat on your block and is not cracked. Or you can just bolt it up and hope for the best :brows:

Haha, whoops. By base I mean it looks like a solid foundation to start with! :thumbsup:

My truck will burn/leak a quart of oil every two months. Its just what these old 4.0's do. What type of oil are you running? Maybe you can try something a tad thicker to slow it down? If you are using synthetic, try dino oil.

Heck, it looked like 1/2 of those pictures where taken behind somebody's barn not in a junkyard. Sad thing is, that might be more of a death sentence. There is a rust free '68 Camaro sitting along the fence of a local yard. They got into trouble with the IRS and have been crushing everything in the yard except for 15 select cars along this fence. I do not think they are permitted to sell any parts or car in the yard.

Holy abuse :brows: Couldn't make it since my TJ needs a new CV joint in the rear drive shaft. Got any more pics of the event?

Nice base you have there. And, you are not far away from me. I am near Junction City.

Nice build you have going on here. Great work Sweet MJ. I will be checking out those interior lights. Nice find! Did you need to order the bezel AND the clips?

Or put in the VIN plates from a 2001 Cherokee along with the driveline, interior, and front clip. While not legal, a few MJ's are running around registered as XJ's with the new parts... Should get you another 10-20 years out of the truck :smart:

Because that would be EFFICIENT!!!! We all know how government work goes... I am proud to be an American and would have it no other way. Although I do not agree with our country's leader, I respect him. The folks on Capitol Hill need a slap of reality :doh:

I gave up trying to figure it out. No matter what kind of 'deal' anybody got, the older gas guzzling car would cost you less over 5-10 years at least. :shake:

What in the blue-blazes just happened? The crushers accomplish the same thing, just in square form. I enjoy mindful art pieces designed, compiled, or otherwise presented by competent persons. Having studied Landscape Architecture in school, I have a fondness of art. That is no art. That is unnecessary! :doh: