yxmj

Still in it.....this will make the -20 forecast for Friday feel like......Spring On the jeep note.....both daily drivers a 4.0 and a 2.5 start without being plugged in !

Ha Ha......come on up.....best beer and prettiest girls..... It actually went down to -51 on my drive to work... I would like to find the guy who started the phrase "global warming" ...and kick him right in the......!

Winnipeg (for those who do not watch the price is right) is 2 hours straight north of Grand Forks. This is in Celsius...... Strangely enough Fahrenheit and Celsius are = @ -40

Don't know if this helps but YJ's have the same rail but they are removable...... You take them off when you put the hard top on and use the same holes and bolts to attach the hard top....you might be able to make a set of them work for you? And you can buy them after market.....even one at a time if you want Here is a set https://www.morris4x4center.com/rampage-tub-rail-kit-sold-separately-69997.html

Does the trans have a Neutral safety switch?

That is the complete system.....master line and slave

How far are you towing it?

Yes....that is were I am going.....if you had a stethoscope you could pinpoint the exact origin of the noise....no guessing involved. IMHO....if it were a piston you would hear it when the motor was cool cool and all through the rev..... My money is on 1) Ring Gear/Flywheel 2) Harmonic balancer

Do you have access to a mechanics stethoscope?

Does the sound change when you step on the clutch?

Is it an auto trans?

Adds more flow to rear brakes according to weight of load in box above....the weight pushes the rod that turns the valve

Search the site there is a lot of info

If you mean the silver tab.....one thing is tells you is you have 3.55 gears.....I can't read the other line If you mean the plate under that....it connects to your auto brake bias box above by a little rod that seems to be missing....

Stock you would also have about 1.25" of rake?

Why Guess.....drop the cover....read the stamped numbers....replace the cover and top up with new diff lube....that way you are 100% positive of what the ratio is ....and you gave the truck some new lube ( that was probably needed anyway)

It is out of a 94-96 XJ...it will have the large pilot tip and an external slave

Depending on what has been done the magnet might be attached to the bottom drain plug....

Since you say you don't have the time and skills to rebuild.....why jump to rebuilding immediately? Try the basics first....if they don't work....then do the surgery...as mentioned above...make sure the linkage is beyond clean and adjusted correctly. First basic thing you could try is .....drain the fluid....clean the magnet......fill it up with new (cheap) atf....drive it a bit running it in 2....4....and 4 low......drain the cheap fluid.....clean the magnet......now top it up with good quality atf.....that might be the fast wash it needs.

Have you tried just removing the linkage at the t-case .....and using a set of vice grips to shift it.......maybe just your linkage is fubar? If stuck in low.....maybe the thump was it going into neutral..... That would be why you have nothing

Do not want to push the edge here......but I bagged the one I sold as well....and already have bags bought and on the bench for this next YJ and......for the Rear of the MJ....I do not do it for lift....but more to be able to control the load carrying ability and you can make a lifted truck drive and ride like a sports car.....

YES......I stand by what I wrote above......maybe you should elaborate on you statement......all solid axle suspensions have death wobble....is that the jist and FYI......I do not consider unbalanced tires as death wobble

From the set up you have in the picture your approach angle would be the same as the sliders would be installed on the rear of all 4 leafs replacing the shackles.....And yes I would run them front and rear (I do not have front leafs on an MJ or XJ chassis......Though I do own and actively drive both)......all my experience with sliders originally came out of dirt track racing and I used that on one of my first jeeps...A YJ.....that had, like all do, front leafs that have the shackle in the front....the slider greatly smoothed out the ride. That truck is gone ......but there is a frame (again a YJ) in the shop now that will have sliders mounted in the conventional rear position on all 4 corners .... And Before I have to answer ....I fab my own and the blocks are made of a relative of Nylon called Delrin. This is not mine......But this guy was nice enough to post this pic years ago and I used a bit of my knowledge mixed with this pic in my recipe

No.....Death wobble as we call it is a coil spring front end problem.....a Leaf spring front axle does not "Float" under the front of the truck like a coil spring axle held by the control arms .....centered by the track bar....So many guys look under the truck and can't see anything wrong because there are so many things factored in With a leaf spring front end you essentially have front and back track bars with the axle u-bolted directly to them and only one pivot point per side... If you get a wobble on a leaf spring front end 2 causes ....Tires out of balance.....or somethings seriously Broke

For a simple test while installed I use a Mechanics stethoscope.......just run the motor.... place the end of the scope on the body of the injector....you want to hear a clear clicking noise on all of them......no noise....not working.....a buzzing or rattling noise not good (but the injector might still be functioning) (You can do this with a screwdriver if you do not play doctor) To test ( and clean) injectors from the JY I made a little rig with a plug from an old harness.....a push button switch.....and a 9 volt battery......I take a can of throttle body or carb cleaner....Place the end of a pen body on the straw so it fits the opening of the injector.....now spray a shot into it to pressurize it and push the button.....