Oizarod115

i've got an OEM 3 peice. 1989 model

thermostats go bad VERY easily, and don't last long even under perfect conditions. they sometimes stick half open restricting flow, sometimes stick shut, sometimes stick open. replacing that is two bolts, and some RTV and a gasket. VERY easy compared to the waterpump... which isn't hard, but its a PITA, i'd try thermostat first, itll cost you under 5 bucks including gas to the parts house.

:eek: :cheers: lets go throw a manche party! it would be amazing to have a club meet with 10+ manches. how odd would it be to have a bunch of RUNNING mjs together ?!

That's on the MJ wish list for me. One of these days I'm gonna get around to that, more than likely when I pull the tranny next. Jeff wassat do?

well, if your power/comfort switch is in power all the time itll shift later and use up more gas. comfort shifts way earlier and is rather smoother.

i wanna see this 190E temp readout... sounds nice. i'd love to have something totally cool take up the space under the clock.

well the JB weld leaked a TINY TINY bit, but a bottle of stopleak seems to have turned the trick on the last little bit. woohoo, 95mi trip with the new engine and no burrs yet. (knock on wood) but we did find out the rear main is leaky.

5-0 injectors don't really up performance... they do burn cleaner and maybe 1-2hp if you're lucky, but don't be looking for 30hp from them cause you'll be disappointed.

ahhh, good point. didn't know that. any other buckets, cut off the brackets and slap the new ones on.

thats a good idea. we'd have to figure out how to divide it up though.

just plug in all your renix stuff to the motor... thats how mine is, runs fine.. passed state inspection (ga) last year but I'm assuming a sensor has gone dead since then

yeah, we bought one for the tranny bolts and all that jazz for the engine swap.. but he got the PS pump and intake/exhaust manifolds off and had a better look its definately not head gasket, just two cracks on the drivers side above the freeze plugs for 1-2 and 5-6.. JB welded them back this mornin, should know later on tonight what happened. (I WANT MY TRUCK BACK)

the power seats are going to sit really high in the cab.. so i'd say if you're 6' and up you won't like it. or you'll be modifying the brackets to make it lower. i've got XJ buckets, what you do is cut the bucket off its bracket (leaev it on the sliders) and take the brackets off the bench and put the bench brackets on the XJ sliders. that should do her.

I don't like having to jab the brakes when going down the hill. :D Also, if anyone is having problems with a clutch and a hill, they don't have enough gearing. :brows: its not the gearing... she wuoldve climbed up with no gas if i wanted... its the traction granted I'm not switching save to ax15 (or nv if i can find one cheap) but the auto just feels safer. and if you put it in N downhill you won't have to worry about 4lo fighting you. it is nice to leave it in 1st and go down the hill at 1/2mph tho

my brothers truck has the RE zj springs and they hold his winch+Jcr bumper off the ground pretty well. theyre 4.5" (for an xj) coils and that plus 2" spacer he's running 35s. with all that crap on the front. doesnt ride rough and if the CA's could move it would flex like crazy.

my brother ran a flowmaster 50 series with no cat (and got a ticket for it) but it sounded real good. i can't imagine how much louder the 40 would be with no cat :eek: the 50 was on the loud side without the cat.

?? you try slowing down yet? or if the wheels are locked up you'll be going forwards too.

he got the power steering off and found out it was a headgasket. :bowdown: :oops: SUCKS! he's attacking it tomarrow. dropped by a shop in town today for a quote to see if it was worth the trouble, guy goes "i don't work on headgaskets, eff that." hahahaha.

it should work great, my 97 motor runs fine in my 89... using all renix stuff. your flywheel should be able to swap onto the new motor. don't forget about the pilot bushing though, you may need a new one if the new motor doesnt have one. when we pulled the one out of our motor (didnt need it for the auto he has) it fell into peices.

makes perfect sense. radius style don't need flex-joints at the frame. 4-links could benefit from 2 joints per link.

i managed to get a few clips from people with 4.0s and diff mufflers a while back... check out this thread http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2497&highlight=flowmaster

o well as long as it wasnt the D44 sportrucks were base-line so i doubt it, but anything WAS possible.

:D my buddy was workin on some ladys car once ( a new style VW bug to be exact) and had to take it for a test drive, a bright yellow bug with flower in dash and ghey rainbow sticker on the back window... the two oily mechanics in their blue jackets looked MIGHTY off in that. :yes:

so when you decide to use a joint like that, do you go with that joint at BOTH link ends, or just one? my brother has RE superflex joints at the axle end and bushings (not sure what kind) at the frame end, and theyre straigtht from the XJ kit they sell. i didnt know if the one "fixed" (i guess bushing ends are sort of fixed?)end is necessary for stability or if a "superflex" style joint would work for both ends?

ive only been canoe-ing once or twice but it was extremely relaxing/peaceful. i wouldnt mind ownin one.