Oizarod115

not all the way lucky, but as close as you can get without gettin all the way lucky. :brows: somethin to do with bucket seats, don't have much room for that. (luckily between the two of us we weigh 225 tops) so theres still enough room, if yuo're creative.

that sucks, what toy had the beef to tow you?! i love your build still, whenever i get bored i flip through for ideas haha. even though i could never do it. oh welll

:roll: i get maybe 215 mp tank on my stock MJ with 3.07s :cry: (note: 14gal tank)

you just have to know what you're looking for, GoJeep has it done on his 4.0 and that's australia! i think the mech. fan pulls 2000CFM but i wouldnt settle for less than 2500CFM myself due to cooling issues with the 4.0L http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_752006_-1_10117http:// that one is complete with a thermostat style switch that cuts on and off for you. for 125$ and 2800CFM 15" fan EDIT: gojeep actually states 2000CFM minimum, 3000 for heavy towing/offroad use. here's the article, there's also one beneath this on the home page a bout a 4500stock ford taurus fan :eek: bout to go read that next. http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoElectricFan.htm

quarter carwash. pressure wash the living hell out of it. they have all sorts of pre-soaks and soaps you can use. (and its all automated, so the owner never sees it happening.)

...fire wrench? you got that right, i don't have a CLUE what he's talkin about.

damn! that should keep the @$$ end in place huh? i think you'll appreciate the extra weight of the bumper when you're flexing the crap out of those leafs

i wouldnt let my first welding experience be tacking a nut to a sheared bolt, especially if you REALLY want it out. cause you're SOL if you miss and tac the damn thing to the frame.

hp gains, forget loosening the fan clutch belt, why not eliminate the clutch fan... don't most muscle car performance companies claim an avg of 10-15+ for running elec fans instead of mech ones?

can you explain that pic a little more? is that the front of a t-case or the rear of a tranny? and I'm not sure if theres oil on my exhaust there, but i DID notice today that instead of old nasty gear oil smell, i had scented fresh synthetic gear oil smell... OOH YAY! :roll: now those 8$ quarts can all run out :headpop:

not oily smells, GEAR oily smells. like the nasty smell of 17 yr old gear oil my truck doesnt have engine oil problems cept the rear main

^^^ sound clip of this please!!! ^^^

mine smells of gear oil depending on which windows are open and how the blower is selected while driving. so I'm thinking it leaks onto the clutch and burns off somewhat, and maybe also out the butt end some. the engine never seems to lose much oil (97 motor) but can't a leaky output seal leak into the t-case and overfill it with gear oil causing complications?

so you're tellin us you've got a forest service XJ right? haha those are sweet if you havent seen one like I'm talkin about. gangsta's gotta keep deadly exotic animals man, how can you be a drug dealer and not have an african tiger or at least a few black mamba's ;)

just drained the puke-goat and refilled it... got about 24oz of fluid out... :eek: :eek: especially considering i topped it off with nearly 1 1/2qts less than 8 months ago. :roll: so, gotta keep on that. drain plug had all sorts of nice metal flakes magneted to it. lovely ;) and the oil that DID come out was of course black but now she's got 2.4L of fresh synthetic 75w90 and hopefully won't complain as much

if your booted bolts are allen head, its a 7mm allen which can be bought by itself at any auto part store it actually says on the package comanche brake's allen (i've got a 3/8" drive one)

i would take the exact bumper you SOLD off pong, with tie in points to the rear frame, and requires a cut of the lower edge of the bed after the wheel to allow it to be like a rear-slider bumper. (i can't tell from the pics if thats the one I'm thinkin of) and as for sliders, bolt-ons that tie into the pinch seams would be nice. i like rectangular tube, come out barely enough to have a small ledge there allowing it to protect the door handles

thanks pete. ill keep that in mind when i get an AX... (yeah right, I'm not gonna guinea pig THAT one. :roll: )

fixed rear doors i assume? looks tight, you thinkin buckets or fold down bench in the front? seems to me you'd have to brace it as you cut the floor out, other wise the body may flex and you'd have a b*@$£ of a time gettin doors and glass aligned again? :nuts: right?

if you check out jbs project thread, i think i got some shots of how he's building the frame to the body, don't remember how far along though, Jb is building a full custom floor too IIRC

did we ever figure out what oil to put in these stupid things? i think I'm gonna change my fluid tomorrow, its been a while since i added any its prolly near empty. at first it was 80w90, then it was 80w90 synthetic, did we ever decide if 10w30 works? and should i go synthetic or cheap?

...? can't you get the rotors off without touchign that bolt? iirc all i did was take those two booted bolts out of the caliper, and slide it off the rotor, then pull out pads/rattleclips/rotor... am i :chillin: or are you doing somethin else?

mine broke in that my vacuum CAD stays locked ALLL the time. at least the part time light stays on all the time? I'm pretty sure the axle is actually engaged though but it's been a full year since i played with the d-shaft and front axle to see if it was indeed engaged.

:cry:

... :nuts: i've used a few different types of filters and fram at least twice... but every single time i pull that stupid thing off it dumps 1/4 quart on the UCA and the ground. :headpop: they must be hit and miss bad... i try to buy Wix whenever possible or purolator i wish there was some way to change it without it getting everywhere